TeamCapri
Tech, Repairs, Upgrades => Capri XR-2 89-94 => Topic started by: randyshear on June 11, 2009, 08:55:00 AM
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Ok this issue isn't getting any better at all. I have changed the plugs, wires, cap & rotor, air filter, fuel filter, and added fuel system cleaner, and filled it up with 91 octane. It drives out great as long as you are accellerating, but as you are crusing, you feel it bog down, and the speedo starts going backwards, then the boost gauge goes up, then as I hit the gas again, it will surge forward, and take off. I have been checking vacuume hoses, and found one cracked that goes to the BOV, but it still holds pressure. Runs absolutely great as long as you are hitting the gas.. No CEL is on either.. What could it be?
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Hey Randy! I wanna say it has to do with fuel somehow but lets go another direction. Does the car seem to coast easy? What I'm getting at is the possibility of bearings seizing up in the axles or trans, putting a load on the motor. Answer back. Gus
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It coasts easily yes.. It does this in any gear if you hold it long enough. If you are giving it gas, it is fine, as soon as you are coasting for any length of time, it starts surging, and the boost goes up. I hit the gas, and she takes off again.. It is getting really aggrivating.. I'm about ready to sell it.. Except that the guy didnt give me a title for it.. I'm not happy with this car.. Thanks Gus for all your advice.
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did u put the B12 CHemtool in it yet?
you said car sat for 4 years...run a can of that through the tank..should help
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The B12 is going through it now.. Yes..
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it only too 1/2 can and one tank for my car to be back to normal...
i would maybe check the grounds for the fuel pump. clean them. it could be possible that when it is under a load the fuel flow is enough to keep it going but at idle (coasting) there could be a power loss
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I will start inspecting grounds tomorrow.. I may have my mobile home sold this weekend.. That's be $5K plus some $ I have saved.. I may just sell it, and buy another one.. Then do some customizing.. IDK yet.. This car is great, but I cant stand the surging, and poor fuel economy..
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Could it be the ECU?
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I wish I knew.. I can't figure it out, and it is frusterating..
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Hey Randy! Hears something to look at. you're losing speed so you give a little throttle and notice the boost come on but no power? Possibly check fuel filter and fuel pump. Also connection at gas tank and ground. They're under back seat. Gus
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Gus can I actually remove my fuel pump from the back seat? You are correct.. If I darn near floor it, it will quit surging, and shoot off real quick.. But yes, even as it is losing speed, I slightly depress the gas some more, the boost goes up to 5-6psi, and still no power at all.. Even on the highway boost is present most of the time, because it is losing power, and boost goes up.. I'm lost.. Another thing.. It doesn't do it until after its been running 20+ minutes.. ????? Thank you Gus!
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Also check all engine grounds. Theres a couple on a top engine/tranny bolt in front of the distributor in the thermostat area, check/clean that one especially.
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grounds it was. It runs perfect now. Fuel economy is great now!! Thanks everyone!
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ha ha...i was right..LOL
see now you will keep her
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Now you need a RocketChip (http://smile.gif)
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I was just thinking that. How much is it? And do you have any already done so I don't have to be without a car? My capri is my only transportation. (http://smile.gif) Thanks!
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They're $250, and yes I have several ready to go. Look into getting exhuast/intake first (http://smile.gif)
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For now can I add a boost controller? If so what should I set it for? And what plug am I supposed to unhook? I lost the thread it was on.. LOL..
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Hey Randy! Don't unplug the over-boost until you get the Rocket-chip. It is a unit mounted on the fire-wall directly behind the fuel unit of the engine. Gus
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dont get a boost controller either until you have a boost gauge, air fuel gauge (optional), intake and exhaust. factory settings are fine until you get those supporting mods.
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Hey Gost! Factory boost gauge will work but I'm definitely with you on the AFR gauge, one may have kept me from burning a motor. And 21/2 inch exhaust will surely allow the motor to breathe and modifying the intake box also, to allow more air. Gus.
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Hey Randy! I forgot to congrat you on finding the problem. Yes the fuel pump is easily accessed by taking the rear seat bottom out. Real easy! Gus
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i would never trust the factory gauge for anything more then factory..just think this gauge was made in the late 80's way before people thought about doing to them what we are doing..it was nothing more then eye candy for owners.
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Hey Gost! I'll agree over complete accuracy, but I'm thinking necessary priorities. I guess we all have opinions. Gus
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So there's nothing I can do to just up my boost to say 10psi? LOL.. I just want a little more..
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The stock boost gauge I have found to be accurate to only about 10psi...and it will vary from car to car. My first XR2 was dead on till 16..my second XR2 was off the scale at 16psi. It just depends.
So yes, aftermarket boost gauge is very important IMO, and if you're going mod crazy Wideband O2 is way up there too.
You CAN install a boost controller, it will decrease your spool time without necessarily increasing boost, you just have to adjust it carefully. Cory (pmpsht) makes Tunerfixx manual boost controllers, they're a wonderful bit of hardware.
If you do happen to install an MBC, and then go for intake and or exhaust, be sure to re-dial it from zero because the free-flow of the new parts will affect the way and the levels to which the engine boosts by itself.
Hope this helps.
-Rocketman
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Ok, I have bought a Turbonetics 0-50psi boost controller, and a cone air filter with adaptor plate for the VAFM. I am looking at air/fuel meters, and found this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=390058833993 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=390058833993)
Can anyone tell me how these hook up?? I assume to the O2 sensor wire?
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yes... just two for power, and one for the o2 sensor
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That particular air/fuel meter is a narrow-band system. I woulded really recommend getting one just because there inacurate and all over the place. Your gonna want a wide-band if you plan on really keeping your eyes's on the AFR. There a little expensive but there by far worth the money. Just my two cents.
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Hey Randy ! I think co-co is like myself, fails to proof read before sending. I believe he mean't to say not that one. It is best to get a wide-band. Short band will show AFRs but in a delayed moment. Wide band will get the AFRs as they are occurring, best to have. The wide bands are expensive but when you're putting a car together you don't want to burn down a motor, more expensive. Gus
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Well shoot.. I bought it.. Oops..
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Narrowband O2 gauges are more or less eye candy...a good wideband O2 system will readout your realtime AFR with a digital display (ie. 12.7:1) i use a PLX SM-AFR which has both the digital readout and the eye candy gauges, yes its expensive but I needed it to tune things in. Narrowband cant help you there
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mine is doin the exact same thing what ground did you check ??
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The grounds at the thermostat housing, and I pulled the upper and lower housing bolts, and cleaned them as they supply the ground for the plate the other ground wires attach to. It fixed it 100%. Hope that helps you out.
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yes and no i now know which ones to clean but dont know where the flip it is lol
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nvm found it
mines not even attached
someone took it off when they replaced the thermastat and never put it back on
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Hey thats what happened to me and thats why I ended up with a $500 XR2 (http://graemlins/big-smile.gif) Never looked to far into it but im pretty sure its a ground for a important sensor the ECU needs for closed loop operation.When your at WOT or mabie hiting bumps the ECU switches to open loop and that sensor/ground is not needed.
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i fixed it and now my car doesnt even lag when i smash it
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Cool. You are the first person I have helped on here!! YAY!! (http://smile.gif) Glad I could help!
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somebody please help. we've replaced the bac/isc, and the air flow meter. she's still running very rough. won't stay started. rpms drop and surge.
help!!!deb
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Have you checked for vacuum leaks? all the intake piping buttoned up tight?
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Man I'm glad I found this thread! Mine started doing the same thing yesterday. I found the water neck was just slightly loose and I guess that was just enough to disrupt those grounds. I replaced the gasket and cleaned all those grounds and it seems to be back to normal now.
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Ok this issue isn't getting any better at all. I have changed the plugs, wires, cap & rotor, air filter, fuel filter, and added fuel system cleaner, and filled it up with 91 octane. It drives out great as long as you are accellerating, but as you are crusing, you feel it bog down, and the speedo starts going backwards, then the boost gauge goes up, then as I hit the gas again, it will surge forward, and take off. I have been checking vacuume hoses, and found one cracked that goes to the BOV, but it still holds pressure. Runs absolutely great as long as you are hitting the gas.. No CEL is on either.. What could it be?
i'm new to this turbo thing but is it possible that exhaust gas is making it's way into the intake? increaced preasure but no power?
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I had same prob for first year or so.
Finally went to auto parts store and bought about 4 feet of rubber tubing.
Start at the charcoal canister (next to strut tower on passenger side) a start replacing vacuum hoses. A few go to the throttle body. There are three diff sensors/solenoid from the charcoal canister. Replace 4-5 hoses. I had no idea if it would work, and I cannot tell you which one worked, but the prob was a vacuum leak.