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[azgtx]

That is what I do...don't use the head gasket from the kit...go spend the 40 bucks and get a good one or go with the cometic and studs and not worry at all.
Clay

[rcicustoms]

my car actually is put together with a complete upper end gasket set from a 1.6 miata...
the cometic gasket and arp hardware was all ordered off ebay for a 1.6 litre miata..
you will still need to source a disi gasket
(o ring) and a valvecover gasket for a 323gt or capri xr2...the miata is different there, but all the misc. gaskets fit just fine..

you will need atleast an MLS headgasket to hold the boost for 250hp

as for turbo, fuel, and the such..
you will need a turbo capable of pushing atleast 500cfm (my turbo pushes 405cfm) but my car is not yet making 250hp either..
to be safe im gonna say 500cfm...

you will need a walbro, 255lph, in tank, low pressure fuel pump...
 there 100 bucks on ebay...
you need to make sure its a low pressure 30-35psi not for a honda they run high pressure pumps 55-65psi and will be way too much for the little engine...

you will need a set of atleast 390cc if not 450cc like im running, fuel injectors..
search ebay theres a few guys on there that sell ultrasonicly cleaned DSM 450cc (baby blue top)
injectors for arround 120.00 with a resistor box to run em.. you cant beat that.. or go digging in a parts yard and find aturbo eclipse and take the injectors and resistor box from it...

you will also need an adjustable fuel pressure regulator of some sort, to tune fuel pressure..
i used a honda civic fuel pressure modifier from a company called blox.. you must cut the hat off the stock one and install the one in the kit..

you will need to tighten the spring in your VAM (airflow meter) about 10 clicks to compensate for the large turbos intake draw on the flapper..
otherwise, you will run stupid rich on the idle becuase the turbo will draw the flapper further up the range on the idle. making the computer think your running at a higher rpm than you are, and squirting more fuel...

and the most important thing you need to upgrade your brakes to slow it back down without hitting something....   if you can think of any more answers you need just ask...
                             Joe...

[kelly270]

excellent knowelege joe, thanks. I will be falling back on this for a minute. I probobly could have saved some money and not bought the head gasket and ARP bolts from cork sport, eh? There good, but spendy!! I'm having a guy look at the motor and head, so he will be the one to port the head, and I will ask him about porting the exhaust manifold as well. Parts are starting to arrive in the mail. I'm getting excited. My money has to build up a little before the turbo purchuse. I will use the time to get to know the new engine. After reading matts input about putting the cams in the super-roo, I think that I will probobly need to do that also!

[kelly270]

Whats a disi gasket?? Its got the brake upgrade on the front, I would like to upgrade to some real brakes though.

Joe- I found some of the injectors on line, but they dont come with the resistor box, there are other resistors offered on ebay, does it take a special one to run them, or will any one work?

[Rocketman]

Ya, corksport is good but spendy indeed, best to shop around...

Disi = Dizzy = Distributor, like Joe said its an O-Ring seal

[rcicustoms]

search this forum... in "photos" or "91-94xr2"
somewhere theres a whole thread on making a resistor box, called "resistor box how to"  or from donor cars that have the right resistor boxes...
essentially wherer all the injectors grounds meet together. you must run a resistor or set of resistors so that you dont fry the low impedance injectors...

[kelly270]

I got some input about the fuel pump, and high and low pressure, they said that it is all depending on the regulator, this comes from treperformance fuel pumps, that it would probobly fall on your adjustable fuel pressure regulator that you talked about, eh??  I sent out an email to Bloxracing about the regulator, but as of today they have not returned any emails.
.
Man, there are sure alot of different size injectors out there. Will the ones you talked about with the baby blue tops, just be a bolt on thing, with the resistor box fastened on else where?
Sorry to ask so many questions, but I rely on your experiances and expertease to kind of help me through. I'm sure others on the forum are getting info from this as well!
Who knows what will happen after this is all done and said. I might have to take the spare engine and drop it in a pinto or something. LOL
By the way clay- the cometic head gasket from cork sport was something like 105.00 head bolt kit was a little more than that, gates timing belt 70.00, high volume oil pump was 187.00!!! like I said I should have shopped around a little.
 
getting excited about this now, still waiting for alot of items, though
 
the money i could have saved by buying a honda.
Shit Joe. you ever been to washington, its very pretty this time of year!!

[CapriTypeR]

If you would have bought a Honda, you wouldn't have met us!! That is worth it's weight in gold!
Besides, I have yet to run across a Honda that could beat me (not saying they don't exist-just saying I haven't run one yet!)!

--Russ

[blue93]

Besides, had you bought a Honda, you would either own a car with no covertible top (pretty boring) OR, a convertible with no space behind the seats!

What would be the point in that?  Don't get me wrong, Hondas have their place, they just have no place here...

Spend the money on something nice.

[Rocketman]

Sorry, all this money, and no BP? Its by FAR the best bang for the buck.

Otherwise lookin good kelly, you're coming along quickly with your car!

[rcicustoms]

BP is overrated... more torque means more tire smoke... besides, like russ i havent met up with a bp swapped car that has beat me... the guy chris knows from ohio had a bpt goin and i dusted him off... my buddy dustin has the mazdaspeed mx5 with close to the same mods i have done. minus turbo and fuel, still a super new model bpt with vvt, he gets me off the line and i get him in the long run...
not that there not out there, but i aint met the guy with one yet...
the name of the game is power to weight...
 
http://robrobinette.com/et.htm

this calculator is handy in figuring the difference in the power to weight ratio...

take and enter your hp and weight and then
reduce the weight in small increments.
watch the 1/4 et drop.. then raise the hp a bit..
(this will entrance about an hour of your time just searching different car weights and power...) very handy...

[rcicustoms]

just for S&G put my #s in.  220 wheel at 2100 lbs.
it comes up with a 12.3 now add a good fwd launch to that, i ran a 12.8 at the strip and with perfect traction i prolly could get a 12.3
now rocket your #s would be alot closer where a good launch in your car would yeild very good traction... say your car when estimated runs a 12.3, at the track your car would probably run a 12.5 or so... just remember the calculator uses #s with no variables (no wheelspin, no slippage of the clutch, no reaction time...) so dont be using this to brag about times... it will bite you in the ass when you actually run the car..

now on the same note, rocket, you told me your car weighed about 2600 lbs. to make the same 12.3 1/4 mile pass (theoreticaly) its going to take 270 hp..  
time for a t3-t4 and some big squirters on that bp..LOL

now kel saying your capri is stock 2400 lbs..
at 250 whp you will also run a 12.3 (theoretically) wich means a 12.8 like me...
after the tiresmoke...

have fun....Joe

[sterling94capri]

Joe,when you say you put your #s in, what is the formula or websight or whatever. Ofcourse sitting in the garage needing a rebuilt turbo my #s are not going to scare the women and children.Thanks Rocky.

[CapriTypeR]

Also, where did you get the 220 HP figure?  Did you do a dyno run?

[rcicustoms]

the calculator is in the thread before my last one scroll up and click the link...nevermind here.  http://robrobinette.com/et.htm

russ, its all a numbers game.. i havent dynoed the car with the 14b turbo on it yet.. but this motor with the vj11-14 hybrid made 185hp on 18psi (or 4.72 hp per psi..)  thats with a turbo with a flowrate of 280cfm the 14b makes 405cfm @15psi and is efficient to 22psi..
 
also you need to look at how much air you can in turn get rid of..
the 14 exhaust housing is 2 inches. meaning all of you exhaust must pass through a 2in hole no matter how big your downpipe is, your only going to flow what the 2 inch hole will allow..

now the 14bs tdo5 exhaust wheel is 2.5 inch. same as my downpipe and exhaust.. so the exhaust housing restriction is gone, the throttle body will not allow the flow to truely use a 2.5 in turbine housing.. also by dumping my wastegate to atmosphere is 10-15 hp alone (hence why you run an externally gated setup to make big power)
you can tune your flow when the wastegate opens by using say a 38mm WG vs a 34mm WG...

on the 2.0 4g63 mitsu the 14b is good for 300hp
@21psi  (the engines head flows more air)
our engine is a 1.6 id say 220 @18psi is conservative..

ok lets do it this way, the na makes 100hp..
each psi of boost is about 7hp...
18x7=126  so at 7hp per psi of boost (rather conservative for a 400cfm turbo) thats 226hp
not to mention im venting to atmosphere and gaining that flow up top when the WG opens..

ok the na makes 100 hp and the turbo makes 132
take the 32 divide by 8psi (stock boost) thats 4hp per psi with a stock vj14 turbo and a 7.9-1 compression ratio..

now add an efficient fmic, hardpipes, 125 more cfm and bump the compression to 9-1....yea id say 7hp per lb of boost is a safe # to go with.
226 conservatively...
 now if you really want to get nasty ive been known to pull my wastegate hose from my actuator and run it at 23psi on the throttle.. not good for it. but i have plenty of fuel so its not going to go lean on me...
oh and 23x7=161 thats 261hp at 23psi by using that conservative 7hp per psi #...