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Author Topic: rebuild W/O removing motor  (Read 4125 times)

countryboy10

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« on: March 25, 2011, 03:29:00 PM »

with school and work i will not have time to build my capri like i want to. But its spring and i miss going home on the weekend and driving it. So i want to rebuild it while its in the car cuase i dont have the stuff to pull the motor right now. Does anyone think its a bad idea to pull the head off, drop the oil pan, pop out the pistons, rering it and new rod bearings, and get new valve guides and cam seals?
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Rocketman

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #1 on: March 26, 2011, 08:52:00 AM »

I don't think its a good idea...

I have removed motors by hand, stripped down you can lift the block out yourself

Do you have low compression or something? why the need for extensive rebuild?
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bhazard

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #2 on: March 26, 2011, 09:59:00 AM »

Very bad idea lol have fun dropping the crank and putting it back in like that...

These motors are not that heavy, me and another skinny guy like me lifted a full BP engine into the back of a festiva no problem. The BP is a slightly larger engine than a B6D/T. And without the head/manifolds your block is pretty light.
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93 Festiva L, lotsa miles, BP+T/G25MR swap, Rocketchip
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88 T-bird Turbo Coupe, 182k miles, slightly modded, 14.71 @ 92.4mph 2.02 60\\\', end of the road

countryboy10

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #3 on: March 26, 2011, 02:11:00 PM »

yea i do have low compression and it smokes, and im not removing the crank. just the head and pop the pistons out the top rering and new rod bearings, and get new valve guides and cam seals.
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Chicken

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #4 on: March 27, 2011, 08:45:00 AM »

Pull the head and have it properly pressure checked by a capable machine shop.  Finding a capable machine shop and being served by a capable machinist is not as simple as it should be.

If there is a leak then the machinist can tell you from where and how to proceed.  VERY RARELY are valve guides "needing" to be replaced.

Is your car Turbocharged?  How many miles on the engine?  Abused?  Condition of oil?  Debris in the drained oil.

IF IF IF it is the rings then you can do it the way you are thinking.  You must be young, energetic and flexible.
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If you heard it from an automotive forum, get a second, and third opinion.

countryboy10

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #5 on: March 27, 2011, 10:09:00 AM »

the car sat for 4 years then when we got it running again it always smoked when u started it(bad valve guides). then it just got worse and worse and now it smokes every time you give it gas. I parked it last july and i did a compession test and it was 90 on #1 #4 and 100 on #2 #3. I looked it up on all data its spouse to be 130. I think i can get it all done in 2 saturdays.
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countryboy10

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #6 on: March 27, 2011, 10:10:00 AM »

there is 120,000, yes its turbo
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Rocketman

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #7 on: March 27, 2011, 10:17:00 AM »

130-150 is a normal "healthy" engine.

You're thinking of valvestem seals. Valve guides are a massive undertaking, machinist-only kind of deal.

You'll need a special valvespring compressor to do the valvestem seals. Its still not an easy job.

I'm not sure of your mechanical skills, but I think it'll take more than 2 saturdays to do it the way you're talking.

Have you checked the turbo for shaft play? Smoking due to oil is very common when a turbo is on its way out or completely shot.
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countryboy10

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #8 on: March 27, 2011, 10:35:00 AM »

the turbo is new, maybe a couple weeks worth of driving on it. The old one had major play in it. And i already know how to take the head off so bout 2 or 3 hours to do that. To get the oil pan off you take the exhuast off, a brace and move over the RF A Arm, unbolt the oil pan, unbolt the rods and push them out through the top. Then ill get my dad to take the head to the machine shop we use and get them to check the head and rebuild it. Ill bring the pistons back with me and clean them up, Whats a good way to get the carbon off of them? Then the next saturday ill put it all back together.
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countryboy10

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #9 on: April 03, 2011, 04:35:00 PM »

well yesterday i went home and tore the capri down, the oil pan gave me trouble, the bolt behind the oil drain for the turbo was hinding from me, but i got it off. I didnt have to end up removing that brace or cutting my aftermarket exhuast to get it off like i thought i was. when i got the pistons out 2 of the cylinders had like a stain on them, not a scratch i ran my finger nail across it and it didnt hang and i cant feel it but it looks stained. I was wondering if anyone would now what would cuase this?
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Rocketman

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #10 on: April 04, 2011, 04:53:00 AM »

Going to need to take some pics for us to illustrate what you're describing.

Good luck with the rebuild
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countryboy10

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #11 on: April 06, 2011, 02:41:00 PM »

i tried to take a pic but it wouldnt show up. It looks kinda like a water stain. I asked my instrutor at school an he asked if it ever sat for awhile and he said it was from the rings rusting. It should be fine. It probly come off when i hone it out.
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countryboy10

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #12 on: April 21, 2011, 03:32:00 PM »

well this past weekend i got the new water pump, front seal, pistons, and head on. when i honed the cylinders the wired looking spots did go away. i also found the reason my rings went out, the oil squirters where stopped up. My goal this next weekend is to get where i can start it. I still need to put the oil pan, timing belt, turbo, intake, radiator, and motor mount on. Yea i found that the mount by the turbo was bad and mid county was the only place i found to get one for like $100, so im making mine out of polyurethane.
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Heavensheros

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #13 on: April 22, 2011, 08:47:00 AM »

yeah as much as i like mid co there prices are very high :-(
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Rocketman

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rebuild W/O removing motor
« Reply #14 on: April 22, 2011, 10:25:00 PM »

Try ANCHOR Part # 8065
$16.05 on RockAuto. Its listed for the 323 but will fit the Capri.

The front motor mount is used in a myriad of different vehicles. Pretty sure it was common across the 323/tracer/festiva, and possibly the escort/protege but I'm having a hard time finding solid part #'s & interchange info for it right now.
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