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Author Topic: Short Nose Crank - Front Main Seal Question  (Read 4060 times)

Rick_R

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Short Nose Crank - Front Main Seal Question
« on: November 28, 2012, 12:56:00 PM »
Hi Guys,
 I recently had the top half of the timing cover off on our 1991 XR2 and noticed that the timing belt had a slight wobble (about 1/8 of an inch)on the intake side. It is clearly visible on the idler but not as prominent on the intake cam sprocket  .. needless to say, I don't like this at all... I am planning on buying a complete timing belt kit with the tensioner, idler and water pump and taking care of this asap. Also front main seal is leaking and I was going to take care of this all at once until I started reading some of horror stories regarding the short nose crank problem. I am pretty sure that our car has a short nose crank, the build date is 9/1990..I understand that with the short nose crank that you do not have to remove the harmonic balancer to replace the timing belt but I would really like to take care of my front main seal leak when I replace the timing belt.. Do any of you that have done this job before have any suggestions, tips, or the correct procedure on removing and re-installing the harmonic  balancer on a short nose crank engines. The Harmonic Balancer looks perfect now and has no wobble whatsoever, I would really hate to have an issue with the crank keyway after reassembly..  

Thanks,
Rick
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Rick & Michelle
1991 Capri XR2 - Razzi Body Kit - Calamari Bubble Top - ICW Racing Rims

 

Rick_R

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Short Nose Crank - Front Main Seal Question
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2013, 11:42:00 AM »
I guess nobody that participates on this forum has done this job before..
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Rick & Michelle
1991 Capri XR2 - Razzi Body Kit - Calamari Bubble Top - ICW Racing Rims

 

azgtx

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Short Nose Crank - Front Main Seal Question
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2013, 12:35:00 PM »
It all has to come off. The seal is behind the crank gear. If your wobble is up top you need to check the alignment pins on the end of the camshafts. If those are worn you will need to replace them. I recommend you relpace the idler, tensioner and the water pump so you won't have to go back in there again. Also, stop by your local Mazda dealer and get the upgraded  woodruff key and crank bolt. Ask for the parts for the 91 Miata. When you have the crank nose staring at you, check the keyway for any abnormal wear...such as the key slopping around in the keyway. If it looks good, put it back together with the upgraded parts and torque on good to 108-125ftlbs. If it does not look good you have a decision to make. replace the crank for a 22mm long nose...or a 27mm big nose ..but you will also need to replace the oil pump along with the big nose. Finally you can do the "shadetree" loc tite fix that is documented on the Mazda 323 GTX group on Yahoo.
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