Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[CapriManxr2]

The temp sensor connector is SUPER loose, I had to use electric tape to hold it together. Ever since I taped it, the fan just runs all the time. I'll get a new one because people are saying it's a bad idea.  When I put in a the new thermostat I tried to unplug the sensor for better clearance but couldn’t get it to come off, so I probably moved it around a ton. With that, it probably caused the fan to not run or run constantly. I think that is why my old radiator blew up on me. It blew when I was idling sitting still. About the VAF, I really noticed the change when I put in the new bpv but that’s probably just coincidentally when the VAF started to act up. Anywho, I’m going to test the connections and see what the voltage readings are.

[greywolf27030]

The fan running constantly means you aren't getting a connection. This is a safeguard so that if you have a switch failure, you just unplug it and it runs constantly till you can get a new switch. It isn't a good idea to let it go long because it isn't designed for that service.

[CapriManxr2]

So I tested the VAF and no matter which pin I jumped with the SIGRTN pin I couldn't get it over 2V, according to the diagram it needs to be bottoming at 1.9V and top out at 7.5V. So does this mean that I need to acquire a new VAF from eBay or RockAuto? (If you guys or anyone you know could send me one that I can buy for less than $150 that would be sweet)

[CapriManxr2]

Never mind, found one on amazon for $100, hope this fixes my problem and can get my car back on the road for the upcoming summer. I'll let yall know if this new part solves my problems.

Edit: Thought I found one on Amazon but it looks like it won't fit. Will have to keep looking.

[CapriManxr2]

So I got a new VAF/MAF in and the issue persists. No more codes though, I'm thinking vacuum leak, how do I test that?

[EShepherd]

So I got a new VAF/MAF in and the issue persists. No more codes though, I'm thinking vacuum leak, how do I test that?

If you can get the car to a shop, or have access to it, the correct way is a smoke machine. If you can't do that, you'll need to get creative. I'm gonna be putting a cone shaped adapter into my air intake (where the VAF goes), then installing a tire valve stem into that. With that, I should be able to use a tire inflator to put a few psi of air pressure through my intake system, so then I can spray everything down with soapy water. It'll make a ton of bubbles wherever it's leaking.

Since we seem to be having the same problem - you may want to check the plastic j-pipe that comes off the cold side of the turbo. Inside of the turbo-end of that piece is this silly plastic/rubber thing, which is I guess supposed to function like an o-ring. Take the j-pipe off and you should find it (or like me, what's left of it).  I should add - I haven't actually fixed this yet, I'm just aware that it's a problem. You could probably fix it with a piece of cut up hose, or some PVC pipe, or you could get fancy with some aluminum if you wanted. If you are running more than 10psi of boost, don't let it be too janky or it's just gonna blow apart at WOT.

[CapriManxr2]

So I checked the O ring like you said and it's fine. I even purged ALL the air leaks in my system, I replaced the MAF and filter with a closed end piece of rubber that fit the J pipe and drilled a hole into it and use my air compressor and sprayed ~15 psi into the intake system and found 3 or 4 leaks in there. I fixed them all up and and turned the car over and it still idles like crap, better than before though. The throttle response is still iffy, it feels spongey kinda. Also, when I was checking the hoses in the BPV, there is this black rubber cable that connects to the distributor on end and the other end has a red connection that connects to this black thing that was connected to the old air box. Anyway, whenever I brought my hand near it it would arc to my hand, but it didn't hurt or anything, just like a little shock, figure I'd mention that. Anyway, after purging all the boost/vac leaks and new VAF sensor the problem persists. Any idea on what else could be causing this? Like I said before, there are no more engine codes and it was running fine before I put in the new BPV, I even put in the old back in to see if it did anything but nope, still the same.

[EShepherd]

So I checked the O ring like you said and it's fine. I even purged ALL the air leaks in my system, I replaced the MAF and filter with a closed end piece of rubber that fit the J pipe and drilled a hole into it and use my air compressor and sprayed ~15 psi into the intake system and found 3 or 4 leaks in there. I fixed them all up and and turned the car over and it still idles like crap, better than before though. The throttle response is still iffy, it feels spongey kinda. Also, when I was checking the hoses in the BPV, there is this black rubber cable that connects to the distributor on end and the other end has a red connection that connects to this black thing that was connected to the old air box. Anyway, whenever I brought my hand near it it would arc to my hand, but it didn't hurt or anything, just like a little shock, figure I'd mention that. Anyway, after purging all the boost/vac leaks and new VAF sensor the problem persists. Any idea on what else could be causing this? Like I said before, there are no more engine codes and it was running fine before I put in the new BPV, I even put in the old back in to see if it did anything but nope, still the same.

It sounds like you're trying to say the ignition coil is arcing, or possibly one of the spark plug leads? Do you have any pictures?

Fix whatever is arcing. If that's not the cause of your current issues, it's gonna end up being the cause of your Car-B-Q when you inevitably spring an oil or fuel leak...

[CapriManxr2]

I can take some pictures for you, as in car-b-q you mean the car is done for? And how do I submit pictures?

[CapriManxr2]

Ok, I’ll just post an Imgur link. The cable in my hand is the one that arcs when the car is running. https://imgur.com/a/4ohnW8M Any ideas?

[greywolf27030]

That is the coil wire, you need new plug wires as the others are probably breaking down too.

[EShepherd]

Yep, get new plug wires. That's probably causing a lot of your rough running issues.

Also, where were your intake air leaks and how severe were they? Does your car still stall right after startup?

Edit- Car-b-q, I meant if you have a fuel leak (the vapor is the serious danger here) or an oil leak, and a spark...well you get an explosion. That's a coil wire, so it'll spark hundreds of times a minute. If you wind up say a small little leak at the fuel line coming off the fuel filter, kaboom. Fix it ASAP, things sparking under your hood that you can see is always bad.

[CapriManxr2]

My most prominent leaks were the little vacuum lines that came off the BPV and there was a small leak where the Jpipe connects to the turbo. I tightened they all down with new clamps and that fixed the air leak. I don’t drive the car and hardly run it Right now because the issues, the spar plug cables are brand new and don’t arc though, I’ll just replace the coil wire for now. And the car runs, it just feels super hesitant and the rpm’s drop every time I get off the gas. Thanks for the help guys.

[CapriManxr2]

So I fixed the arcing by moving the ground to a new bolt that was cleaner and way less rusty. But my problem still persists, I think I’m going to have to take it to a shop and have them take a look at it  .

[CapriManxr2]

Well guys, It ended up being low compression  :'(. I think I'm gonna rebuild the head, it doesn't burn oil which leads me to think that it might be a bent valve that kills the compression.