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Author Topic: Cracked manifold...  (Read 7247 times)

Hollis

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Cracked manifold...
« Reply #15 on: August 14, 2010, 01:08:00 PM »

1. 120
2. 105
3. 115
4. 115

Thats my compression on my cyl.

Still no idea why it is hesitating so much. Feels like it runs outta gas. Plugs I just put in had a nice amount of carbon on the outter parts.

I think I'm going to replace plus and distro asap. But I ran outta money replacing everything else..

I'm going to try to test my fuel pump to. But it seems when I'm on boost it has no problems. Just loss of power.

On a side note. When I redid my valve cover. I opened up my pcv valve and used gasket maker to put it backtogether. Could that be a reason on all the blowby off my breather? I mean it throws oil everywere.. I think I read something on a pcv delete? I'm not to sure on pcv's at all so correct me if I sound like a retard.
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kelly270

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Cracked manifold...
« Reply #16 on: August 14, 2010, 08:55:00 PM »

It made all the differance in the world. When I had my valve cover painted, I did an extremely shitty job of putting the inside tins back together. Had the same prob. I cut out a new gasket out of silicone for the inside tin and put it back together! no more freaking issues . I played hell moving my oil catch can around. that and replace the pcv and moved vacuum lines, ect. Just wanted a good job on that gasket. Oh yeah, also the first manifold I had was like you are talking about. I could see into the thing. Finally have one from the new motor, with no cracks. (I will still have a header built.)
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92 XR2
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Hollis

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Cracked manifold...
« Reply #17 on: August 15, 2010, 01:27:00 AM »

Hmm so I'm goin to redo my gasket then. Do you think I'll have to order in a new valve cover gasket too?

On the side note. Is that compression bad? Someone told me if its under 135 my engine is going.
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Rocketman

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Cracked manifold...
« Reply #18 on: August 15, 2010, 08:21:00 AM »

Yeah your compression is pretty low.

I keep forgetting the baffles under the VC. Usually they won't go bad unless you've messed with them though. Some good RTV silicone will make a good seal. Very common thing when they've been powdercoated or painted, the coater will usually pull the baffles off but won't bother to re-seal it upon return to you.


Anyway, If you pull the oil fill cap while the engine is running is there a lot of gasses blowing out?

If you pull the VC, you'll need a new gasket unless its been recently replaced.
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1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


Hollis

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Cracked manifold...
« Reply #19 on: August 15, 2010, 04:43:00 PM »

no gases commin out strong. Could the low compressionn be from my timing being off?
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Rocketman

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Cracked manifold...
« Reply #20 on: August 15, 2010, 04:47:00 PM »

Only camshaft timing
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Hollis

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« Reply #21 on: August 15, 2010, 05:07:00 PM »

So like if my camshaft slipped on the belt. It could be causing all these problems? Like low compression and stuttering?
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Rocketman

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« Reply #22 on: August 15, 2010, 05:11:00 PM »

Have you checked cam timing? Its doubtful it slipped, and you usually know when the timing is off. (Extremely hard to start, powerband way off- no balls until super high RPMs, won't run at all)
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Hollis

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« Reply #23 on: August 15, 2010, 05:14:00 PM »

No I havent. It was exactly like that for a month then randomly on highway. I mean I had peddle to floor only doing 40mph.. It just came back to life. Now it seems like its dying again. no idea how to check timing. I'm good with tools and I know some things but my capri has forced me to learn alot of new and more advance mechanic's than I know lol.
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Colorado1

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Cracked manifold...
« Reply #24 on: August 16, 2010, 12:44:00 AM »

Look for a notch on the timing gear down where the little plastic deal is that has marks that says T & 10(flaslight). I found the best way to find the notch is from underneath on ramps. Out of gear turn the ignit. as if you're going to start up but just a quick bump so the gear moves a litte(cont. until you see the notch. Draw a white line even with the notch on the gear. Hook up the timing light to the #1 spark plug line(clamp has magnetic hole that goes around the wire) & the other 2 cables too the battery. Aim the light straight down inside the front pass. side @ the timing plastic guage and it will flash ea. time #1fires. Timing should(hopefully) be @ 12 - one mark above the 10 on the plastic gauge.I.e. mark & line you drew-with white chalk or paint. If not loosen the distributer bolts just enough too turn it. Every little turn will move where the white line appears-when @ 12 degrees tighten bolts on dist. w/o moving it @ all.
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Colorado1

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« Reply #25 on: August 16, 2010, 12:50:00 AM »

It better be 12 degrees, that's what I read and set mine at. Helps to have two people for finding the notch & turning the distributer while watching with the timing light.
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Rocketman

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« Reply #26 on: August 16, 2010, 03:45:00 AM »

Thats ignition timing. Gotta have him check to make sure his camshafts are still timed correctly to the crank.

When doing static ignition timing, you'll need to remove the vacuum advance lines and plug them, the ignition is timed without any vacuum influence.
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Colorado1

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« Reply #27 on: August 16, 2010, 05:06:00 AM »

I did PM right after I posted just in case, said to take a look a the "How Too's" section on timing belt change for an idea. Hope that was right.
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Hollis

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« Reply #28 on: August 16, 2010, 08:36:00 AM »

I don't have a timing light. I'm not to sure at the moment what to do. Cash is getting tight. I keep dumping more and more money into it and gf isn't happy lol. Hopefully I find a fix soon. Or I'll prob have to just suck it up and sell it.
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Rocketman

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Cracked manifold...
« Reply #29 on: August 16, 2010, 08:43:00 AM »

I'll be out that way around the 21st I'll see if I can stop by
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