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[azgtx]

Check ALL the ground wires under the hood...on the frame rails..the bracket by the thermo housing and the ground wire to the tranny and also check the 6 pin connector to the distributor..unplug it and clean it out with contact cleaner. I have had issues on the GTX in these areas.
Clay

[Yzzerdd]

I found that my coil wire was arcing onto metal. I replaced it. I'm not quite confident that was the issue, maybe a contributing problem, though. Eying the ignitor in the distributor. That or the cap. I plan on cleaning up the cap tomorrow. I found a manual on Techcapri.com for getting things apart. Will I need the J-puller? Also, I only want to tear down the distributor to the ignitior. Will I need to mark things and make sure to realign everything exactly? Also, will I need to retime anything once I pull out and replace the ignitor? I'm going to take it to be tested.

--Ryan

[Yzzerdd]

Fantastic news! I think I got the problem tracked down to the coil. I tested it and it had a yellow spark. Then I took it for a drive to get it to stall again. It stalled fairly quickly. I had someone come with me to crank the car while I checked for spark, and I got nothing. No spark whatsoever from the coil. Looks like I'll be ordering a new one and we'll see from there.

--Ryan

[Rocketman]

Did you check for signal at the coil's input? its way more likely that the coil is not getting signal due to a bad ignitor than the coil is bad...

[Yzzerdd]

Thankyou very much for your (and others) helpful input. I tested it according to specification on the TechCapri site, and the power wire to the coil tested fine. Specification says it should be over 10 volts, other sources say about 12V is where it should be. I tested it with a analog meter to be 12.1V. A good reading. On the other hand, no spark from the output end of the coil. Looking like a bad coil.

--Ryan

[Rocketman]

The coil wire will have constant power yes. The ECU sends a pulsed signal though to the ECU, intermittently grounding causing it to generate an HV pulse to the distributor cap. (a coil will not arc constant if constant power is applied)

You'll need to measure tach signal at the coil when the engine is dead, if there is no tach signal present at the coil's input then the coil is not the suspect part.

I say this because coils will generally catastrophically fail, it will either work or not. Generally.

Just my $.02
-Matt

[Yzzerdd]

What would be the coil's normal output voltage at crank? Mine is taking in 12V and putting out 5v. No tach registered at "on" position or crank on either end of the coil.

--Ryan

I found my multimeter and tested the coil to have .5ohms of resistance, where as, according to the manual, it should have at least .8.

[azgtx]

Just a heads up on these cars that I have learned over the years....Keep a big box of "known to be good spares" just for times like these. Start roaming your local wrecking yards and the message boards and groups like this one to feed your cache of parts that you may someday need.
P.S.   I'm with Rocket..I have only seen one coil go bad and 3 disty's shit the bed in my 3 323's with B6T's.
Clay

[CapriTypeR]

I concur with Rocketman and AZGTX, as well!  I have owned probably 25+ Capris in the last 10 years, and I have never experienced a bad coil.  The dizzy , on the other hand, I've had to replace at least 8-9 times!!

Email me if you need those "back-up parts"!  I have bunches!!

--Russ
Cougar1prod@comcast.net

[Yzzerdd]

OK, damnit, I got a new coil and it wasnt the problem. Of course, I ordered the coil BEFORE ya'll told me you've never seen a bad one. Oh well. So I pulled off the ignitor(Fingers crossed I put it all back on right) and the part number is Mits. J207. OK, a few questions here. ONE--I thought the replacement is J208? TWO--Is there a difference between J207 and J208? THREE-Did the Capri come from factory with a Mits. ignitor?

The connections on the ignitor look a little corroded. If I clean the contacts, would this perhaps fix the issue?

Not buying anything until ya'll put input this time... My impatience has costed me $30.

--Ryan

[Gus Kelley]

Hey Gizzard!  Corrosion causes problems on every electrical connection and cause all kinds of engine not running situations. Clean up your connections.  Gus

[Rocketman]

I tried to tell ya!

It looks like both part numbers are compatable, J207 & J208. The corrosion could be an issue, but the sensors themselves are known to go out - it would not hurt to replace it or buy one as a spare. You can find both part #'s listed for a Capri application on eBay.

Yes the ignitor is a stock mitsubishi part. So is the alternator (mid 91+ w/ the 70 amp), the isc/bac valve, cruise control box, and most of the sensors and electronics.

[Yzzerdd]

HA!

I got it running! Part came in today and I put it all together. Been raining badly for days, but there was a break today. Well, for awhile it was only a light drizzle. So I went out there, covered things up with a towel, and went to town reassembling things.

She's always been the kind to run rough when cold. Much worse today, but the car hasn't moved in a while and it's been raining. I sat in the car and kept my foot on the gas until it reached operating temperature. Anyhow, got it going much better, and runs alright from 1800RPM up. But wont idle. Well, it will if I keep my foot on the gas. Idles fairly roughly at the normal 1000RPM. I drove it around the neighborhood and it did well.

What do ya'll think about the idle issue? I think I need to wait for a hot sunny day and unplug things. Spark plugs, distributer cap, etc, and let it evaporate. Been raining for awhile, some water may have gotten in there.

Thanks for the help!

--Ryan

[Rocketman]

Did you reset your timing back to the original mark after working on the distributor? Changing the timing will really affect your idle

[Yzzerdd]

I worked in such a way to not mess up the timing. i took it apart while leaving everything attached to the motor. took off the cap, rotor, and radio interference thingy, then the ignitor. didnt move the car at all, and put it all back exactly as it was. the car idles beautifully now that I reconnected a hose to the air pipe. Thankyou all!

--Ryan