TeamCapri
Tech, Repairs, Upgrades => Capri N/A 89-94 => Topic started by: Blobfish on January 01, 2023, 07:45:03 AM
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Hello
I've got trouble with my Capri, it's a 1992 XR2 non turbo Ford Capri. A couple of months ago it started to jump and hop (like it had kangaroo petrol in it) when I would take off but when I would get moving and go up the gears (it's a manual) it would smooth out. So I took it to a mechanic to try and get it fixed. Instead he just complained that it wasn't idling properly and that half the sensors didn't seem to work. Anyway he played around with it, made it slightly better and sent me home with no explanation for the hopping. A couple of days later when I had a look at it again, first it wouldn't start, after some fiddling it would then start fine but would immediately die.
After some research I decided to have a look at the idle air bypass valve, when it as tested with hot water the valve closed like it's supposed too, but the coolant part of it was completely clogged with coolant sludge so hard it was basically like cement. After a long time I did manage to unclog the coolant sludge and it's now back in the car. In addition, when I was having a break from unclogging it, I was looking at the air intake pipes and discovered that there was an enormous split in the rubber air induction hose and concluded that this was probably the cause of the hopping. So I patched the split and with an unclogged idle air bypass valve I started it up and amazingly enough the hopping was now gone! Unfortunately this was not the end of my problems, it was now idling very fast 2000 rpm when cold and would increase as the car warmed up and would start surging between 2250 rpm and 2500 rpm approximately, if the a/c was switched on it would lower the rpm by about 500 rpm and would be less likely to surge, also if you revved it it wouldn't surge.
So even though it wasn't totally fixed I felt that maybe I was near the end of my troubles because things had improved. But then the car threw me a curve ball. A couple of days ago I went to start the car and it turns over just fine, but absolutely no sign that the engine is even attempting to start. Fuel is getting pumped out of the fuel filter and the spark plugs are sparking, all the fuses I can find are alright, but no life from the engine. The only sign of life I've had so far is that during one of my attempts to start it it did suddenly spring to life. I've no idea why this particular time it did start, I wasn't doing anything different to the other attempts and when it started there was no problem at all, idle was still high but apart from that it was fine, turned it off and attempted to restart a few seconds later and it was as dead as a door nail.
I would really appreciate any ideas as to what's wrong because I'm at a loss, I do believe that there is a another problem with the idle air bypass valve because of the drop if idle when the a/c is turned on but I wouldn't have thought that would prevent the car from starting.
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After you patched the air inlet hose, some of the idle problem could be the result of previous attempts to repair it. The IAC should also be increasing the idle to compensate for the A/C. So that is odd. I have been trying to solve the exact won't start problem for a while now. Get in, starts fine, next time, no start at all. Make a change, starts fine, next time, no start at all. Change something else, starts fine, next time, now start at all. Sometimes I hate computer-controlled cars.
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Had what sounded like the same problem in my 91' replaced the ignition coil and it runs great not. Not sure if this will help but I wanted to share.
P.S it sparks when testing but when under compression it will not. Best of luck!
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Thanks for the suggestions so far
After you patched the air inlet hose, some of the idle problem could be the result of previous attempts to repair it. The IAC should also be increasing the idle to compensate for the A/C. So that is odd. I have been trying to solve the exact won't start problem for a while now. Get in, starts fine, next time, no start at all. Make a change, starts fine, next time, no start at all. Change something else, starts fine, next time, now start at all. Sometimes I hate computer-controlled cars.
I did wonder if it being adjusted was largely the problem with the high idle. I have attempted to adjust the idle down, but all the adjustment screws that I'm aware of were already set to minimum idle or didn't really do anything. Trouble is I'm flying a bit blind because the mechanic didn't tell me what he adjusted. That said, my father thinks the throttle stop screw (the one with all the do not adjust warnings) has been adjusted. I'd post a picture of it but I'm new to forums and haven't figured that bit out yet. But it doesn't touch the stop on the dash pot.
I also measured the voltage of the plug that plugs into the IAC (when the car would still start) 12V as soon as I started it and if I turned the A/C on it would increase by about 0.5V. Apart from that voltage is reaching the IAC this doesn't really tell me much without comparing it with voltage readings from a good car.
Had what sounded like the same problem in my 91' replaced the ignition coil and it runs great not. Not sure if this will help but I wanted to share.
P.S it sparks when testing but when under compression it will not. Best of luck!
Interesting, I'll have a look at that. I've got the receipts from the previous owner which goes back to 2002 and I don't think the ignition coil was anything that was replaced so it's probably the original.
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Had what sounded like the same problem in my 91' replaced the ignition coil and it runs great not. Not sure if this will help but I wanted to share.
P.S it sparks when testing but when under compression it will not. Best of luck!
Interesting, I hadn't considered the coil. When mine finally starts, it runs like a bat out of HELP me.
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Blobfish, if you haven't found them yet. Factory manuals are available online.
https://capriconvertible.com/FORD-CAPRI-89-94-SA,SC,SE-CONVERTABLE/
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Blobfish, if you haven't found them yet. Factory manuals are available online.
https://capriconvertible.com/FORD-CAPRI-89-94-SA,SC,SE-CONVERTABLE/
Thanks
Well I've purchased a new coil, but it's going to take two weeks to arrive. So in two weeks I can try it and see if it helps, before the current problems started it did sometimes struggle to start. First attempt it would almost start but not quite, second attempt and it would be fine. Although it only sometimes did that.
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Since Rocketman hasn't chimed in with it yet; how old is the gas in your fuel tank? Apparently these cars can give you all sorts of headaches when trying to start them if the fuel is more than a month or two old. Something simple enough for you to try out.
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Since Rocketman hasn't chimed in with it yet; how old is the gas in your fuel tank? Apparently these cars can give you all sorts of headaches when trying to start them if the fuel is more than a month or two old. Something simple enough for you to try out.
Last time I filled up from almost empty was 23rd October. I did top up early in November, I think it took about 10 liters that time. So I suppose it's possible although I'm sure I've had petrol at least this old in it before and it's been fine, although at this stage all options are on the table.
I've had another look at the IAC valve since last post and it's defiantly not working, pour hot water through the coolant pipes and air still comes through the valve even when it's so hot you can barely touch it. I probably broke it when trying to clear it out. ::)
I also tried powering the solenoid and I couldn't hear or feel any movement coming from it.
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I have replace the ignition coil but it still won't start :(
The last time I attempted to start, it really didn't sound that good. After a few seconds of turning it over it would sound really sick, if the accelerator petal is put to the floor the turning over sounded richer and it wouldn't sound sick after a few seconds but still wouldn't start.
I may be technically minded but I'm not a mechanic, apart from that something is clearly not working I don't really know what these symptoms mean.
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Have you done a compression check?
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Sorry I'm late to the game here.
Important thing to know about the Capri:
The airflow meter (VAF) is a critical part of engine operation. It is extremely sensitive to air leaks - any disconnected vacuum lines or cracks in the intake tube will cause major issues (as you've found)
I would pull the intake tube off that was cracked and have a real thorough look over it, flexing it to inspect for cracks. With the age of these it is common for them to have cracks that only open when the engine is moving around (sounds like the bucking issue you had) Have a good look at the pipe.
Also check other sources of potential vacuum leaks - if you have any of the idle valve hoses disconnected for testing, they will cause a no-start. They must be connected and the system sealed. A smoke machine may help the search for vacuum leaks (your mechanic may have one)
There is an idle adjustment screw on the throttle body, often covered with a cap to discourage adjustment. I wouldn't play with it until you can get the engine running again.
The electrical part of the idle valve depends on a signal from the ECU, I think it is PWM (pulse width modulation) - applying 12v to it will likely not result in anything.
You should be able to get the engine running even if the idle valve is defective.
It would also be worthwhile checking the spark plug wires to make sure they are all seated on the plugs and distributor cap, as well as the correct firing order, these can get bumped/dislodged while intake work was being performed etc.
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Have you done a compression check?
No, I don't have the equipment to check.
I would pull the intake tube off that was cracked and have a real thorough look over it, flexing it to inspect for cracks. With the age of these it is common for them to have cracks that only open when the engine is moving around (sounds like the bucking issue you had) Have a good look at the pipe.
That was one of the first things I checked when it wouldn't start, wasn't even a hint of a crack in it.
Also check other sources of potential vacuum leaks - if you have any of the idle valve hoses disconnected for testing, they will cause a no-start. They must be connected and the system sealed. A smoke machine may help the search for vacuum leaks (your mechanic may have one)
It had been suggested by someone else that there could be a vacuum leak in it somewhere when it would start but idle fast. For the most part they all look fine but that doesn't necessarily mean there isn't a leak somewhere, I just don't have the equipment to check properly.
A friend of mine who's a mechanic is going to have a look at it on Monday so hopefully I'll get some answers. I did figure out why it started to sound sick after turning it over for several seconds, I hadn't reconnected the IAC valve air hoses, just plugged them up because I couldn't be bothered reconnecting them at the time. Now that there back in, it turns over fine.
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You can borrow compression gauges at your auto parts store for free usually.
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You can borrow compression gauges at your auto parts store for free usually.
I suspect this won't do me much good since I live in Australia, of course there may be some who will do that here. Although my mechanic friend should have that stuff so I should be able to get the compression tested.
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Finally started today! The fuel injectors were dirty and I think he said one of the valves was stuck because of the dirt as well. Now that my friend has cleaned the fuel system it starts and the idle is better. Still idles fast and surges when it warms up though. He thinks that a new IAC valve will fix the fast idle, so hopefully that's all it is and I'm on the home straight now.
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We're hopeing for you.
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We're hopeing for you.
Thanks
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I've installed a new IAC valve in the car and it seems to have largely restored the car to working order. Idles fast when it's cold and slows down to a smidge under 1000 rpm when it's warmed up.
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I've installed a new IAC valve in the car and it seems to have largely restored the car to working order. Idles fast when it's cold and slows down to a smidge under 1000 rpm when it's warmed up.
Cool, that's what it does.
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wonder if that's why mine runs at 1500 most of the time.. sometimes it will be 8-900 like it should, but mostly stays at 1500
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wonder if that's why mine runs at 1500 most of the time.. sometimes it will be 8-900 like it should, but mostly stays at 1500
When you park it for a few minutes, the IAC will warm up and it will idle properly, after you run it a few minutes it will go back up.
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wonder if that's why mine runs at 1500 most of the time.. sometimes it will be 8-900 like it should, but mostly stays at 1500
Have you tried testing the thermostat? I'm not going to guaranty it will help but it could at least be worth looking into if you want.
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Finally started today! The fuel injectors were dirty and I think he said one of the valves was stuck because of the dirt as well. Now that my friend has cleaned the fuel system it starts and the idle is better. Still idles fast and surges when it warms up though. He thinks that a new IAC valve will fix the fast idle, so hopefully that's all it is and I'm on the home straight now.
This is extremely promising information. Do you happen to know what your mechanic did to clean the injectors?
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This is extremely promising information. Do you happen to know what your mechanic did to clean the injectors?
He used a GLR Injection Technologies machine - used to be called Mr Injector.
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Well my Capri is dead again but at least I know why it won't start this time, the fuel injectors aren't receiving their electronic signal to fire. The ecu, distributor electronics and map sensor have all been tested, the ecu and map sensor are both ok and the dizzy electronics was inconclusive.
My prime suspect at the moment is the dizzy electronics because the seals have failed and oil is leaking into the dizzy. But I was wondering if there's anything else worth checking out that could cause the injectors not to receive a signal?
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When you crank the engine, does the tachometer bounce? If not that is a classic sign of a failed ingitor module in the distributor, a fairly common issue
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I thought it still bounced, but now that you ask I can't actually remember with certainty. And I haven't got those bits back that I got tested so I can't check it either ::)