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[CapriXR2]

Small puffs of blue smoke out the tail pipe when revving or usually when taking off from a stop. Turbo seals? Valve guides? How to tell? Doesn't happen every time either...


No noticeable oil level drop on the stick...

I have 104k with a rocket chip, 2.25 exhaust, cone filter, PCV catch can, back to stock intercooler. Stage2 clutch (not that it matters). Currently breaking in clutch running stock boost and being "nice" otherwise I drive like I stole it.

What should I do!?

Thanks
-Brian

[Jim Simms]

I had same prob. Never leaked oil on ground. I used a lot of oil. ring compression was good.Got the puffs from time to time. Puffs became more frequent. Was turbo oil seals, and bearings. Turbo shaft had way to much play. Got turbo wheels from azgtx on our site. Having rebuild done in San diego.
I suggest get the rebuild done ASAP before you damage the wheels and bearings.
I learned, and this group helped.

[Rocketman]

Check the turbo shaft for play, report back. 104k miles you shouldn't really be hitting turbo issues though.

[CapriXR2]

Turbo has minimal play.. Doesn't do it all the time either... Started up took off had a trail of blue smoke not terribly thick but noticeable.. Valve guides? But why? Anything else to check? I'll do a compression test again but I doubt it's the rings.

[Rocketman]

Has the PCV been replaced recently? I know you have a catch can installed.

Another issue is when folks have their valvecovers painted or powdercoated, sometimes the person doing the work takes off the baffles underneath but does not re-seal them. This causes a lot of oil vapor to make its way into & condense in the intake tract

I have had turbo oil seals that are failed, without having excessive shaft play, but this is uncommon. Do you have oil on the inside of your intake piping, after the turbo?

[CapriXR2]

Valve cover baffles.. Do you have a picture? I have a catch can and no PCV valve... No oil after turbo so I don't think it's the turbo seals. There was a little oil before the turbo tho... Might be from the PCV pre turbo??

[Rocketman]

You need a PCV valve so that the crank case is not pressurized under boost. You're blowing vapor right through and out of the engine when you're under boost.

[CapriXR2]

I will put the PCV back in, not sure if its related enough or i should make another thread....

I am having a hesitation/ power loss issue. I have the rpms steady around 2-3k and the car acts like its lost fuel pressure or something. The engine is bogging/ sputtering. If I let off or give it more throttle it usually snaps back. Only once has the exhaust sounded like firecrackers. A large improvement after putting the stock intercooler /soft pipes back in. I checked the soft pipes they are secure.

A weak fuel pump/bad injector? the filter is new, New NGK plugs, not sure about wire age/ should I have the ignition coil tested?... I feel like my MPG's are low as well, I average around 22.

What are the Capri Gurus thoughts? 

[Rocketman]

If you do the self-test CEL procedure, does it pop up at codes?

Does your engine warm up properly? Stock thermostat? Running a lower temp t-stat causes a lot of problems in the capri. Same if its stuck open.

O2 sensor?

Any more vacuum leaks? Just saw someone on the Festiva board who had a nasty boost leak where the injectors seal into the intake.

You've got something going on, your MPG's should be better than that. What octane fuel are you running?

[CapriXR2]

The only time I have had the CEL light on was when I had a loose coupler on the freeway. Warms up normal (as I know it) gets to nearly 3/4 of the way up on the temp gauge, I will have to see if I went with OE or a lower temp... If I did go lower would that cause my issues?.(On a side note my lights dim and idle dips when my radiator fan kicks on SO annoying)

Tomorrow I will reinstall the PCV valve and search for possible air leaks. Would my intake manifold be wet if I had a leaking injector seal? I do seem to be running (smelly) smells almost like I am burning lots of fuel... has had cheap gas with octane booster until today I put in high octane ran a little better but not the fix. I believe I am at 8 BTDC should I change my timing? Is there a how-to for the CEL procedure?

Thanks
-Brian

[Rocketman]

You have to jumper the test connector in the engine bay, then turn the key to the RUN position. Any codes present will pop up as blinking sequences on the check engine light. Here's the chart:

http://teamcapri.com/howtos/cartroublecodes.html

[CapriXR2]

I am familiar with the text connector for the mx5 to set the timing, I don't see where the capris connector is.

I am having a serious missfire . Can't hold a steady speed over 40mph without it, I ran a compression test. Cyl 4 at 150, cyl 3 at 155, cyl 2 at 130, cyl1 at 140

4&3 dropped 5psi, 2&1 dropped 15 when left for a few minutes... Plugs on 3&4 are evenly fouled around the edge 2&1 have a section of soot but the rest is clean... Uggg

[CapriXR2]

Unplugged my TPS and she runs well. Thanks for the tip Matt!

[Rocketman]

That just points to an issue with a sensor, you need the TPS for it to run normally. When it's unplugged it runs in "limp home" mode & ignores most of the sensors, including ones giving a faulty signal.

I'd replace the Oxygen sensor & see if that helps. If not then I'd test/replace the ECU's coolant sensor in the bottom of the intake manifold.

The test connector for pulling codes is on the firewall, attached to the main engine harness. It's on the passenger side, above the alternator

[CapriXR2]

In the past the "misfire/hesitation" was once in awhile. Now it's constant... TPS tested with a bit of high resistance, new ones in the mail. O2 was a little slow so I replaced that too. ECT sensor tested with resistance in range on multiple temperatures. Wires to and from ECA tested good. If the TPS is plugged in the car is too bad to drive..