Honestly I cannot believe anyone ( sorry Matt) would use a hammer to do this job where a bearing is involved. One of the best tool buys I have ever made was a press from HF. That thing has paid for itself time after time with these asshole design captured rotors. Press the assembly apart, press out and in the lug studs and press the hub back into the rebuilt knuckle..it does it all..along with the bearing separator shown above. The thing to remember with these is you put the knuckle together first..meaning new races, put in the packed bearings with the spacer..and use Timken Set 11's and nothing else, and do not lose or mix up the spacers between knuckles, ideal would be to use the preload tool, and put in the new seals to hold the bearings in. Then you press the hub into the assembled knuckle assembly. I would also recommend putting on new rotors while it is apart...doing it again prematurely to replace the rotors you should have replaced means another set of new bearings. When you torque the wheel nut it will all be pulled together. Some may say this is bs and I am not spending the time and money..remember that when you could be doing it again in 5000 miles changing warped rotors or bearings you buggered up beating them in with a hammer. Take it for what it is worth. Use a drift punch and not a screwdriver please on the races. Also check your hubs for scoring and replace if needed. Also the spacers are matched to the knuckle where casting and machining differences could occur. Use the Set 11's as that is the oem bearing thus keeping the preload as close to as it was..unless of course the tool is at hand then you can dial it in perfectly.
Clay