TeamCapri
General => General => Topic started by: Mort on July 22, 2010, 01:42:00 PM
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I tried buying one locally but all they had was a radiator that is 26+ inches wide. The radiator in my 91 Capri is only about 23 1/2 inches wide. Any suggestions where I could get one? Thank you.
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I have one if you dont mind used.
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The computers at work list a replacement single row at 26 inches in a similar style to the original, double check clearances to see if you can actually use it. I think it includes an integral oil cooler that causes it to be larger.
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Mort-
I have several stock replacement radiators. Email me if you are interested! Cougar1prod@comcast.net
--Russ
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Oil "cooler" is on the back of the engine. An auto capri should have a trans cooler built into the radiator.
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Mine is definitely only 23 inches wide. When I measure 26 inches it would be partly into the headlight bucket. Also the radiator I took out, there is no outlet/inlet for any kind of cooling, in fact the spot for that on the bottom of the radiator is blocked off and blank. Russ, I will email you now. Thank you everyone. Mort
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whew... what a forum!!!
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Ironically, a radiator replacement is why I'm here :D
That radiator that they list in the parts book is actually for an early '90s Mercury Tracer, and it is several inches wider. When I measured out my '91, it looked like I could physically fit it in the car without any cutting, but the lines to the A/C condenser would be in the way (and I don't want to lose the A/C, despite it not even working at the moment).
I searched all day for some place that stocks the radiators we need, and came up empty handed. Napa told me that they can't even special order one, period. I ended up having Autozone order one, part number 431514. Same shape/size, same inlet/outlet, mount positions, etc, but it's copper/brass vs the stock aluminum/plastic which is better from a cooling standpoint although it will weigh a few pounds more. Living in Phoenix, I felt a few more pounds of weight for better cooling is a worthy trade-off for me.
Just ordered it earlier today, supposed to be here Tuesday afternoon, I'll update here if it works out.
If you're looking to stay completely stock, and your end tanks are still good, your best bet will probably be to visit a local radiator repair shop to have your existing radiator re-cored or pick up one of the used ones offered here.
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I much prefer the all-metal radiators, I've had jeeze, probably 3 or 4 plastic tanked capri radiators fail on me in various ways.
Welcome to the forum, keep us updated!
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Got the radiator in from Autozone today, was the WRONG FRIKKEN THING. They sent the wider radiator that's spec'ed for the early 90's Topaz that's also aluminum/plastic instead of copper/brass like I was supposed to get. Something like 26" wide, instead of the 22" one in the Capri. Their computer system says the one I ordered is available until depleted, so my guess is that it was depleted, and they substituted this other one, as their books says it fits (I think it would physically fit in the space if the car wasn't equipped with A/C, although the top mounts wouldn't line up, and something would have to be fabricated to hold it).
Spent about an hour on the phone at Autozone, they said they have a commercial supplier that does have the correct one that's is copper/brass (although I would have grudgingly taken another aluminum/plastic if I had to) that's supposed to be delivered early tomorrow morning. Down side is that it's around $200, instead of the $125 I paid for this (wrong) one. Although I think Autozone should cover that difference, I didn't argue it.
We'll see in the morning if I get the wrong one again. If it's not right, you may hear of another story of someone getting arrested for going ballistic at an Autozone in Phoenix :D
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Taken from RockAuto.com-
SPECTRA PREMIUM Part # CU1628
13.75" Length; 22.375"; Width; .625" Depth
$122.79
VISTA-PRO Part # 431514
13.75" Length; 22.375"; Width; .625" Depth
$184.89
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Yes, notice that I originally ordered 431514, but that's not what I received. The radiator in the box was labeled CU866, as well as on the packing list. The description on the packing list did include the 431514 number. Several other sites online also list the CU866 as a supersede to the 431516. Even Spectra claims that the CU866 will work in place of it. Which is why I said I felt that it got sent in place of the 431514 - the 431514 isn't available anymore, and even according to the manufacturer, it's a direct replacement.
That said, when Googling the CU1628 I have on order now, it comes up with a bunch of hits saying it's specifically for the '91-'94 Capri. I just fear that I'm going to get another CU866, lol.
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I have the stock radiator out of my old xr2 if you want it.
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I just got back from autozone... they want 300.00 for the all metal one, ie; copper and other misc metal parts!! I was a bit taken back!!!
I also got the "cold runner" thermostat, I think its 160, along with the white gauge back gound, (both from ZXtuner)!! I'll let you know how it likes running a little colder!! I know the white guages will look cool as f#**k!! I'm always looking for little one-off things to do. Running a bit cooler is always a good thing!! Looking cooler comes natural!!!
Got the new block going to a buddy for the tear down and rebuild on tuesday, he will put the new parts on the lower end and paint it, then I got to do the head. My guy who was going to port it is gone... so I will think about what to do next.
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Running cooler is *not* always a good thing, engines have an operating temperature. At 160 you probably will never enter closed loop. I hope you dont care about mpg's.
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Radiator came nearly 45 mins later than the promised "worst case scenario" time (just _barely_ made my commitments today....like literally made it by minutes), but it turned out it was the correct one this time, and was even all metal like I wanted (http://smile.gif) The mounting tabs for the radiator supports and fan mounts were just a hair bit off, but flex in the rubber made up for it on the supports, and the fan will have to be modified a bit to get the driver's side lower mounting screw in, but it's in, and works well.
Flogged the car like a red headed stepchild going through mountain passes at 80+MPH today on the way up to Sedona, and it never got above roughly 215-220 (midway between 175 and 250 on the stock gauge). Easy cruising at 65 to 70 on flat ground, and the needle hugged the first mark past 175 the whole time.
Radiator came from Performance Radiator (http://www.performanceradiator.com), they appear to have locations all around the country, including one here in Phoenix as well as one in Mesa. Their part number is 1628CBR, is an all metal, copper/brass unit, with trans cooler in the lower tank. Total price for me was $177, but I don't know if I got cut a deal because it was a business to business sale, and the manager of the Autozone just didn't charge me his cut. The original price I was quoted was $220 (and was $300 for the same part number through Autozone.com, but is also quoted on Performance's website at $197). They apparently also recondition existing radiators, at least at the Phoenix location, as I was talking to the delivery guy for a few minutes about the custom built radiator in my Scout that's starting to get some buildup in it.
Overall though, I'm happy, and will certainly be giving this place more of my business.
Oh, and the "running cooler is always better" - that is absolutely NOT true, especially for modern computer controlled vehicles. These vehicles are designed to run around 200-210F (with at least some of GM's stuff, and I'm sure others as well, intended to run around 215-220F...yes, beyond the boiling point of water).
The whole "cooler is better" is a carry-over from the old days by people who still think the best way to test an alternator is by yanking a battery cable while the engine is running (if the engine stays running, the alternator is good). This WAS an acceptable method of testing a generator, but is a good way of instantly frying your alternator as well as the ECM/PCM.
Same thing with the 160 thermostats. Back in the day, the clearances and tolerances on engines were a lot looser, thus running the engine cooler could very well well give you additional power and mileage, at the expense of cabin heat. Today however, the tolerances are a LOT tighter (hence why the recommended oil is 5W-30, vs 10W-40 or even straight weight 30 or 40 back then), and the engine computer expects to see a certain temp before it will go into closed loop. If your cooling system is up to snuff, putting that 160 'stat in there could very well hold your engine at 160-170, and never getting up to full temp.
Result? You may very well feel a few additional ponies due to the increased amount of fuel being dumped into the engine (it's more likely that you won't get any additional power, due to the timing also being retarded in open loop), but your fuel economy will likely take a dive (much like when your O2 sensor goes bad), along with the life span of your engine.
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I ran a 160 for a while. Absolutely NO heat whatsoever, and I didn't notice any better performance. A lot of people will argue that the engine will need to run hotter to lubricate itself properly. YMMV though.
I've also run a 180. Again, no performance increase, even then still had very little heat. I'm sticking with the 195's.
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Remember that the "thermostat" doesn't control the temperature of the engine. The degree number like 160-180 or whatever is when it opens. It is actually a valve. The water temp can go higher if it wants to as now the valve is open. It will close if the temp goes lower than the "number" on it but it will not keep it from going higher.
So if you put in a 180 thermostat and it seems your not getting any heat, it's not the valve, but a pretty good working cooling system in general. So then putting in a 195 "thermostat" will cause the water temp to go higher before the valve opens, and will keep a higher minimum temp thus giving you more inteior heat.
This opening and closing all the time is why these things wear out. I've seen a lot of broken springs on them and even a few cocked sideways causing them to stick open or closed as they wear from the constant movement of the valve.
Don't forget also the if your a/c is on or if you have it on defrost, the radiator fan is usually going too which can cause it to heat slower.
As for the radiator in mine, I got lucky with a local junk yard and got one for 50 bucks. Silly thing looked better than the one that came out!