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ECU failed, no engine start or run

1 (16.7%)

ECU failed, one or more injectors wouldn't inject fuel

0 (0%)

ECU failed, one or more injectors stuck on near full duty cycle (dumped fuel into cylinder)

2 (33.3%)

ECU failed, other symptoms

0 (0%)

Never encountered a failure of a B6V8 OEM ECU on my car - still going strong

3 (50%)

Total Members Voted: 6

Voting closed: October 27, 2015, 10:38:22 AM

[Joe M]

I recently had an ECU failure.  Two of the injectors (#2, #4) stuck on.  The fault was fixed by simple replacement with a known-good spare.  I heard from Rocketman that this sort of ECU failure is becoming more common.  I know that B6V8-coded ECU's are also getting more difficult to find.  Just how prevalent is this sort of failure?  These ECUs are over 2-decades old.  Should we all be keeping a spare just in case?  Are there simple components that can be replaced within the ECUs to keep our cars on the road? Is any of this even an issue?

[mitch1204]

Usually a repeated ECU failure is caused by a bad injector. When the injector windings fail then resistance drops while electrical current increases causing a possible short or open in the ECU circuit. The circuits can run in pairs which would explain #2 and #4. I would ohm out all injectors and make sure they are in spec.
I'm not aware of any TSBs so I don't think it's a common problem. I would be more concerned about the heater core leaking and damaging the ECU. There's a simple fix of protecting the ECU with a gallon freezer bag.

It wouldn't hurt to keep a spare on any Capri parts. Grab them while you can.

[chrispoe]

I’ve repaired three capris so far including my own where the ecu failed and everyone suffered from the same problem.

The short hoses that connect the heater core to the control box pipes leaked thanks to Ford cheaping out when they built the Capri and not putting any barbs on the ends of the heater core or the control box pipes. 
When the hoses leak, they will drip coolant onto the ecu and it shorts out.  Even if you let the ecu dry out, the glycol will generally leave a conductive residue that will continue to short it out.

So far I’ve been able to revive two out of the three ecus by taking the mainboard out of the case and running it through a cycle in the dishwasher to clean the glycol off and then letting it air dry for a week before reassembling and testing.

[Rocketman]

So far I’ve been able to revive two out of the three ecus by taking the mainboard out of the case and running it through a cycle in the dishwasher to clean the glycol off and then letting it air dry for a week before reassembling and testing.

That's horrible for most of the components on the board. Scrubbing with 91+% isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush is sufficient in most cases

[chrispoe]

Actually using clean water on most depowered electrical components is safe to do.

I use to think the same thing and always used the toothbrush method until my professor in college told me this.  At first I was in total disbelief, but a little research and a trial run proved me wrong. When I run them in the dishwasher, I just use the rinse cycle with the heat turned off, then remove them right away so they can dry.

I still do use the toothbrush method for small clean-ups like a blown cap that leaked and stuff. The problem I’ve found with using a toothbrush method is that it won’t reach very well if at all under a lot of components on boards.

[JJ]

If you don't have a spare ECU, there are companies that can repair.
Back in 2004, I had one repaired by Blue Streak America. 1197 S. Rogers Circle. Boca Raton, FL 33487. 561-989-3755.