TeamCapri
Tech, Repairs, Upgrades => Capri XR-2 89-94 => Topic started by: Grayjake114 on July 10, 2017, 07:43:43 AM
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I just recently baught an xr2 as a daily not knowing it needs a head gasket and piston rings. Also needs a turbo. Will i have to pull the motor to do piston rings??
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Yess you'll have to pull the motor to do the piston rings, there's no way to pull out the piston from the top, you'll have to remove the crank and possibly get new oversized piston depending on the damage. It's very possible you won't need to get a machine shop to hone the cylinder though, but it's a possibility.
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Would it be cheaper to find a new motor than go through all that?
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Would it be cheaper to find a new motor than go through all that?
But it's hard to know what you have if you don't drive it.
Jack Byrd
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Ive drove it a few times. Smokes like a chimney and makes no power. Cylinder 4 is full of oil and theres tons of shaft play in the turbo.
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If you bought a rebuilt/new engine you'd be looking at spending around 1000-1500, if you have the skills you can rebuild your engine yourself for around 900 if you just replace the seals, and get new piston and rings. The problem is the new engines that are for sale aren't the turbo charged variant their usually Miata engines with higher compression not that, that's bad or anything. Overall it might be cheaper just to pull a junkyard engine from another Capri or Mazda 323.
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I heard like a 95 escort engine will bolt right up. Does anybody know any otger swaps thatll fit right in there?
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Plenty o info right here on our swap forum, get your glasses and start reading...
http://teamcapri.com/forum/index.php/board,29.0.html (http://teamcapri.com/forum/index.php/board,29.0.html)
Although at the prices of parts, I'd recommend buying a junky looking lower mile XR2 and swap engines keeping the spare parts around. Capris can be had cheap as whole cars, but not if you have to scrounge parts.
However, given your location you are going to have a tougher time than I would at tracking down a good donor. Having some larger metro areas close by makes it easier.
Try car-part.com for engines shipped.
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SHOwn,
You don't have to remove the engine to replace the piston rings if you are going to do a head gasket replacement as well.
With the cylinder head off the pistons can be pushed out through the top. I have done it this way on my 91 NA.
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Sniglfritz, twasn't me that said you couldn't re-ring in car.
However, having recently had the head off and the oil pan off as well, I agree with Rocketman that it is almost certainly just as hard to pull the head as it is to yank the whole engine. If I had it to do all over again, I would have pulled the engine. There seems to be an equal number of pain points and having it out relieves a few (timing belt and water pump pulley pain). Pulling also allows a good clutch inspection and replacement parts there are dirt cheap.
Greyjake, it is really hard to know what you are dealing with unless you can eliminate issues one at a time. I urge you to get the engine hot, shut her down, prop the throttle wide open, pull the plugs and check your compression on each cylinder counting revs. Do about 10 each. Write them down. If #4 is that bad, it should show up. If the compression isn't bad across the 4 cylinders (check shop manual for ranges), proceed with the following.
That turbo oil seal is very hard to work around. It makes it hard to know just where other problems are for certain. I'd take the intercooler off, dump the quart of oil that is most likely in it out, and degrease, wash it out and get it dry before reinstall. Replace the turbo CHRA, then with everything apart, clean out all the oil from all the intake piping. Check your PCV valve, it should rattle freely. Consider replacing it as well. If you have the valve cover off, check the seal on the baffles, I'd just count on redoing them with the right RTV and solvent first to assure a clean bite and a proper seal. Button it all back up, eliminating the "S" hose from the valve cover vent and put a cheap-o breather filter on the valve cover. That will allow you to see if you are still oiling somewhere.
Start with the compression test, that will define your next steps. I've been there recently.
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SHOwn,
Sorry I wasn't trying to make it seem as though I thought you had said it. I was just addressing you since it was you post.