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[greywolf27030]

When I bought the car, the PO said it had a heating problem.  When I got it started, a belt was screaming.  I discovered the bracket wasn't bolted to the block.  Solved the screaming problem.  The first time I took it out, after a couple of miles the temp started going up.  It got almost into the red.  When I stopped, it was filling the overflow and the fan hadn't turned on.  I found the fan was disconnected, connected it, turned on the ignition, fan came on, problem solved.....WRONG!!!!!  Fired it up today, belt screaming.  Drove it a couple of miles, belt quieted after about a half a mile because it had jumped off.  Temp ran up almost as high as yesterday, but no boiling, also no fan.  Turned off to check belt, turned it back on, fan ran.  Getting a new belt tomorrow.  I did a search and will check the damper tomorrow.  Also found the location of the fan temp switch and relay, am wondering where the gauge sensor is located, maybe it isn't getting as hot as indicated?

Thanks any help you can give,  Jack Byrd

[blueamber]

Sometimes working on a Capri is like the whack-a-mole game, the pleasure of solving one problem is short lived because of a new problem...

If course, the water pump will not work if the alternator belt is screaming (slipping).

There are 'best' belts to get, search the forum for past posts about this (a green Gates brand comes to mind...)

Use a straight edge to ensure the pulleys are lined up with each other... I had a damaged alternator whose body attachment with the bolt was so loose, I had to install homemade shims/bushings to get the pulleys to line up...Chris

[Rocketman]

Any belt making noise is an improper belt, or it has improper tension. Chris is correct: noise = slipping, which means the belt isn't doing it's job.

Always carry a spare belt or two in your car at all times! (as well as the tools necessary to change it) I offer this advise to every Capri owner & live by it myself - it's saved mine & other's asses on several occasions

The car IS getting as hot as indicated. Without coolant flow, the hot coolant likely is not activating the sensor to kick on the fan. The temp sensor is located in the head, behind the thermostat. It's a single pin sensor pointed toward the firewall.

The cooling fan switch is in the thermostat housing itself, with a single spade connector. Unplugging this sensor with the engine on or key on SHOULD result in the fan turning on.

[greywolf27030]

I apologize for all the information and questions in one post.  To clarify, my fan does work, but only after turning off the ignition and turning it back on.  I'm going to check the balancer today and will post on it's condition.  The alternator bracket wasn't even attached to the engine and that solved the squealing for a day.  I have a Dayco belt on order and hope that works.

Thanks, Jack

[greywolf27030]

Checked out my problems a little and discovered there may be one cause for all.  Overheats and fan doesn't come on, but fan runs when you turn the key on a hot engine.  After engine heats up, oil pressure goes to nothing, but no problems with the engine.  Battery runs down overnight.  Seems when you wiggle the key, the fan will run, just before the engine shuts down.  The none existent oil pressure also fluctuates at the same time. And if the ignition switch is bad, it may not disconnect in the off position.   Any thoughts on problems with the ignition switch?

Thanks, Jack Byrd

[blueamber]

First I don't believe the ignition switch is bad, you would have dash lights on if it didn't turn off properly.

Concerning fan operation, there is a relay that controls fan on/off operation.  Relay operation is kind of funny... relay on means fan off, relay off means fan on. 

With key on and a cool engine, the relay is turned on, which makes the fan off.

When the cooling fan sensor/switch sees above 196 degrees, it turns off the relay and the fan comes on.

if you disconnect the temperature sensor (just like above 196 degrees), the fan should operate all the time when the key is on.  If it does not, then the cooling fan relay may be bad, or the fan motor is starting to go bad, or you have a bad wire or ground for the fan.

If it does operate all the time, then the temperature sensor is bad and needs replacing.  It doesn't hurt to run with the sensor disconnected until you get another one.

Another way to test the cooling fan relay is to turn on the a/c.  This de-energizes the cooling fan relay and turns on the fan.  If you cannot make the fan turn on/off using the a/c, then that relay is probably bad.  It is behind the driver side headlight bucket, next to the horn relay.

I believe the battery drain is a separate problem.  Is your Capri an early 91 with the bosch alternator (big, with external cooling fan blades)?  I've had issues with a bad voltage regulator in the alternator discharging a battery overnight.  Might also be the trunk light never turning off (due to bad trunk light switch).  Peek in the closed trunk with the rear seat down.

That's all I got...Chris

[greywolf27030]

The ignition switch fixed the fan on problem.  The problem now is that the fan turns on at such a high temperature that it can cool it off, it will even boil idling with the fan on.  By leaving the fan on all time, the temp stays in the mid range on the gauge.  I have a new fan switch on the way.  The switch didn't correct any of the other problems.  When I have time, I'm going to check out the alternator.  I think it may be the best place for  the amount of battery drain experienced.

Thanks for the input, Jack

[Rocketman]

A new fan switch can't hurt. I'd also recommend replacing the radiator cap if it's boiling over, the spring in it may be wore out. I had one that would boil over excessively after the car was shut off, a new rad cap fixed it.

[greywolf27030]

A new fan switch can't hurt. I'd also recommend replacing the radiator cap if it's boiling over, the spring in it may be wore out. I had one that would boil over excessively after the car was shut off, a new rad cap fixed it.

Yes, I think I'll flush out the system and install a new cap and hoses and hope for the best.  My alternator gave up the ghost Saturday so I'll find out what problems it was causing.

Jack

[chrispoe]

Sound to me like you have a blown head gasket

[greywolf27030]

Sound to me like you have a blown head gasket

I don't think so.  I've been driving it for several days now with the fan switch unplugged so that the fan runs constantly and the temperature stays about mid gauge irregardless of driving conditions.

I ordered a fan switch switch from AA and received a fan sensor.  It had the wrong terminal on it and when we checked, it said it mounted on the head.  I guess it's a sensor for the FI.  Every thing they showed was listed for mounting on the head.  Haven't had time to check on anything else.

Thanks for the advice, Jack

[Rocketman]

That'd be the sensor for the gauge. The ECU's sensor mounts in the bottom of the intake manifold.

[blueamber]

Did you get the TFS525 part number from Advance Auto?  That looks to be the right part from the picture.

Rockauto sells them for like $10-$12, and even they say they go into the head, which is wrong...Chris

[greywolf27030]

Did you get the TFS525 part number from Advance Auto?  That looks to be the right part from the picture.

Rockauto sells them for like $10-$12, and even they say they go into the head, which is wrong...Chris

No, that wasn't the part number they ordered.  I was looking on eBay and they have switches that look right for $20-$30 with shipping.  I'll check out that part number.

Thanks for the info, Jack

[greywolf27030]

Did you get the TFS525 part number from Advance Auto?  That looks to be the right part from the picture.

Rockauto sells them for like $10-$12, and even they say they go into the head, which is wrong...Chris

Thanks again for the info, that is the switch I was looking at on eBay for $20 with FS.  I couldn't find it on Rockauto, but it's $52 at Advance Auto and $68 at Amazon.

Thanks again, Jack