TeamCapri
General => General => Topic started by: GregZ on November 24, 2009, 03:33:00 AM
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i started my car for the first time last night and i can really hear the lifters but as i start it more and more it slowly gets softer (the sound) is this normal for a freshly rebuilt motor? also when i took it out last night as i reved it past 3500 rpm it backfired is that normal? the timing is right on but the timing is only advanced 10 degrees. i think 12 is stock on the xr2's and i am now running premium all the time. What should the timing be? other than that i am very pleased with the end result i will post pictures on my build thread soon.
Greg.
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greg- just thought I'd tell you, I just replaced the lifters, HLA's, in my car less than 400 miles ago and they still kind of clatter. Makes me mad, I'm running straight 30 wieght in it also. I got 4 quarts of full synthetic for the next change.
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i did the same thing i changed the lifter and after about a month of driving it start making lifter chater and i mean like a rod was knockin so i toke it apart start the top down and i have 6 bad lifter out of a brand new set in just a month they went bad grrr still have not got the money to buy new lifter there like under 400 local.... and i run 10-30 oil
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also the turbo spools very quickly, compared to what im used to. it spools 8 pounds at like 3500 rpm. (tbird hybrid) is that normal?
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The B6T really likes Mobil 1 15w-50. I have had those issues over the years and this oil always seems to quiet them down. The stock VJ14 is usually all in at 2500-2800 at that boost level. The T-Bird won't come on that quick but 3500 is not out of the question.
Clay
s
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And the fact that you uare using the VJ11 turbine housing(P20) of course you kick in at a higher rpm...it is bigger. Might have wanted to stay with the VJ14 housing (P12). Ultimately the best would be the VJ16 housing (P15) if you could find one.
Clay
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the only real problem with a vj14 hotside (p-12) is that the flow out is restrictive...
a vj11 is bigger and will spool a bit slower but running a t-bird compressor id run at least a p-20 hotside..
to disperse all the exhaust that the t bird compressor is pushing in... its a game of give and take... thare are ways to reduce boost lag later after its up and running correctly...
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh278/RCIfabrication/hotsidecomp2.jpg)
you can see the size of the exhaust hole after the turbine wheel in this pic... the idea is to match the flow you will need with the spool you want... another thing to remember is the size of the W/G hole... its so tiny on the vj-14 that at higher boost levels, the compressor will create more airflow than the W/G can get rid of... this causes severe boost creep at the top end...the tiny hole can only bypass so much air before it can flow no more.. and the remaining air must pass over the turbine wheel, and spools the turbo past the set boost pressure (creep, spike)....
shrinking up the hard pipes from say a 2.5 to a 2in from the turbo to the intercooler will spool up about 500rpm faster...the less area the turbo must fill with air, before creating usable boost
thus reducing lag...
running a recircing BOV will drop the lag very signifigantly between shifts... almost like thare is no lag at all between shifts...
this effect is exaggerated the bigger the turbo you run...
also, 12*, the sweet spot in our timing is 12*...
13* and you will lose up top.. 10* and you lose spool and torque... 12 is the best timing for any B6t with whatever turbo your running...
ive tried everything from 8* to 15* thares just something about 12* that it likes... i think the dist. is setup for 12* and anything else and your messing with its perameters...
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Opening up the WG hole on the 14/11 hybrids definetly takes care of the creep...should be ok with the tbird. I have thrown out all the vj11 housings I had (cracks) but I seem to remember that the WG's were the same as the vj14's.
Clay
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they are... but the flow is higher after the turbine.. porting the W/G hole will get rid of the creep...(ive done this on a vj14/11 hybrid)
but its flow will restrict the t-bird compressor..
hell a p20 is actually restrictive for a t bird compressor...
a t-bird is almost as big as a 14b
as far as flow .. and look at the difference in the vj14 and the 14b above... as far as area the tdo5h and p20 are almost the same, and spool is very similar... but the size of the outlet after the much larger wheel on the tdo5h is what makes this turbo move air and make power..
its actually large enough that the 16g 18g 20g use the same tdo5h exhaust housing and wheel, just with a larger compressor...
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Dumping into a 2.5 down pipe and getting rid of the stock elbow should take care of most of the problem I would think.
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Like this
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa80/azgtx/S7300025.jpg)
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa80/azgtx/S7300174.jpg)
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(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh278/RCIfabrication/capridownpipe.jpg)
this is not the restriction...
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh278/RCIfabrication/hotsidecomp1.jpg)
this and....
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh278/RCIfabrication/hotsidecomp3.jpg)
this are..
but in that pics case, the biggest restriction is the silver stock tube to the throttle body...
with that in place, the turbo isnt going to push enough air to override a turbos hotside...
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So really we all need to get rid of the IHI's if we want big power????
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i still really need some suggestions on why the motor is backfireing under load...
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plug wires...what kind are you using?
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ultra spark or something. The most expensive wires from napa. They only have about 100 miles on them as do the spark plugs and the dis. cap.
Greg.
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sparkplugs? wires? sparkplug gap?
too much boost for the amount of fuel will cuase knock, witch will make the box retard time and can sound like a miss under boost...
at last years MACG grants car had what sounded like a miss under boost, wich ended up being too much boost...i turned the boost down a bit and the car ran great...12psi is all you need...
get it to run great at 12psi, then you can turn it up and play your way back to 16 or so..
think about it... all it is, is air/fuel, timing, and spark.
is the timing spot on? 12* BTDC if it is, move on...
is the spark spot on? NGK or DENSO plugs gaped at about .020 with a good set of plug wires and a good rotor button and cap? if it is, move on...
are all the injectors good??
is everything plugged up properly???
calculatous eliminatous my friend...
Joe...RCI...
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im running 8 psi on a stock ecu, with a built motor could that be my problem? should i get a wideband and a rocketchip before i go any further? and i have bocsh plugs gapped .039 so maybe that will be the problem? does any body have a used wideband.
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getting a wideband and learning how to read air/fuel would help you greatly with stuff like this...
bosch is garbage. and thats prolly your problem... NGK or DENSO gapped a bit lower 020-030 .... sounds like your wires are fine...
try plugs... your boost sounds to be fine
a rocketchip will be needed soon.. no boost controller until you get a chip would be best...
said you have a t bird turbo??? do you have injectors or a fuel pump in it yet???
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nope stock fuel pump stock injectors and tbird turbo
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you need the following to gain the benefits of your t bird swap....
1) a rocketchipped ECU
2)a walbro 255lph low pressure fuel pump...
3)a set of t-bird 390cc or dsm 450cc injectors
4)a manual boost controller
5)a boost guage
6) a wideband AFR guage and o2 sensor
7) tighten the spring in your VAM 6-8 clicks
with the above mentioned done, you will be safe to run 17or 18psi and be safe on the wideband o2....from 8-18psi is approx.50-65hp jump... hold on tight....
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you need the following to gain the benefits of your t bird swap....
1) a rocketchipped ECU
2)a walbro 255lph low pressure fuel pump...
3)a set of t-bird 390cc or dsm 450cc injectors
4)a manual boost controller
5)a boost guage
6) a wideband AFR guage and o2 sensor
7) tighten the spring in your VAM 6-8 clicks
with the above mentioned done, you will be safe to run 17or 18psi and be safe on the wideband o2....from 8-18psi is approx.50-65hp jump... hold on tight....