Tech, Repairs, Upgrades > Capri XR-2 89-94
SOLVED?? Misfiring or fuel cuts out under load?
jdp:
Boomingbeetle...please do report on what you find. I just bought a 92 XR2 and driving it today for the first time today to run it through the paces so that I can really start assessing everything thoroughly and putting together my "fix it" list. Mine was acting just like you describe under load, so I am interested in what you find. In fairness, though, the car has been sitting for about a 1 1/2 years, so I expect some hiccups as I bring it back to life. I have only freshen the gas and changed the oil so far, so plugs, wires, cap and rotor are due up next. I had encountered the arcing from the breakdown of the plug wire insulator down in the head in my wife's 94 NA in the past. That caused a miss under load on her capri, so I am hoping new wires and just plain running this car a little bit will help settle in.
boomingbeetle:
Well, I started diagnosing things and making adjustments again.
Spark Plugs look Great:
Turbo looks great and has no shaft play, spins very smoothly:
The inlet Pipe was disintegrating so I am reconfiguring it with a cone filter. I'll fab that up later
boomingbeetle:
I wanted to start by cleaning up grounding locations first. Unfortunately, this did not fix the problem.
Here are the ground connections at the thermostat housing (before)
And the T-stat housing after a wire-wheel and sandpaper:
The Front engine ground at the block and at the body:
The rear engine grounding strap at the body:
boomingbeetle:
Still No luck, so I went to the fuel pump and tried cleaning that ground too.
None of this made a difference in how the car runs. I do have a new fuel pump to try, but I'm not convinced that the pump is bad. I loaned out my pressure gauge so I need to hook it up and check fuel pressure before i swap pumps. I already replaced the fuel filter. Time to break out the multimeter...
boomingbeetle:
Testing the VAF (Vane Air Flow) meter. Sometimes this is refered to as the MAF or MAS for mass air flow but that is not technically correct on these cars.
I had to pull off the VAF box from the air filter in order to reach the vane element (the little air door that meters the intake). Then I needed to pull back the rubber boot that goes over the connector enough to expose the wires and pins. The emissions service manual has a basic outline of the procedure but I don't have a breakout box. Basically, with the key on you use the multimeter in 12VDC and check voltage between the VAF wire and the signal wire. The manual shows the graph and how the meter should read between 1/8 open to full open. 1/8 = 3.24V and full open = 7.87V plus or minus 15%.
Closed, I get 2.6V
1/2 open I'm at 5.7V which is very close to spec
And full open I am at 7.6V
Looks like the VAF is good. On to the TPS...
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