I did a timing belt on a PT cruiser last summer. Not too much fun.
You're going to want to pull the engine/transmission out as one, it's far easier this way. Unless you buddy has access to a lift.
Do you have an FSM handy? Might be worth investing in for a large job like this
This is a prime opportunity for other maintenance as well:
Timing belt
Water pump
Thermostat
CV joints/axles if torn
tie-rod ends
balljoints
brakes/rotors
Im leaving room here for an edit with some more details
Okay here's a basic rundown:
-Remove Battery & battery support brackets
-Airbox/piping, brackets
-Power steering pump, AC compressor - leave the AC connected but use a bungee cord to hold it up/out of the way
-Drain coolant, pull radiator fan, radiator. Watch the AC lines they will hang you up
-Disconnect electrical stuff - main engine harness gets pulled & tied up to firewall/windshield. The best way to get the start/charge harness is to disconnect it from the fusebox and drape it over the engine. Trying to pull the connections from the alternator/starter is very difficult in-car. Watch for grounds on top of the transmission
-Disconnect vacuum lines, fuel lines
Take a breather. Then jack the car up, put on jackstands if you've got em
-Disconnect the downpipe from the bottom of the turbo. Pre-lube these nuts with penetrating fluid to make your life easy, and use anti-seize when putting back together
-Take off the wheels, crack the axle nuts (29mm, it's helpful to have someone standing on the brakes & use a breaker bar or impact gun)
-Remove calipers, tie up out of the way with wire or bungee
-Disconnect strut bolts, tie rod ends, ball joints. Remove knuckle/axles. Can use knuckle/rotor as a sort of a slide hammer to pull the axles. OOPS drain transmission fluid first, there's a 24mm drain plug visible through the subframe
-Remove axles. Do not remove BOTH axles from the transmission (the intermediate shaft stays bolted to the engine for removal)
-disconnect speedometer cable & tie out of the way.
-disconnect clutch cable & tie out of the way.
-Disconnect shifter linkage at the transmission (will have to go under the car for this, great time to replace the bushings on re-install)
-Disconnect engine mounts. The rear trans mount is the only one that will give you a fit, use ~3ft worth of extensions, it's a 14mm nut on a stud. Use a magnet to remove the washer under the stud too, otherwise this can hang up & give fits. Do that one first. Leave the bolts in the other two till you are raising the engine out, once tension is neutral on them you can pull them off.
-Pull the drivetrain out with an engine hoist or whatever you got. Make sure the exhaust comes off the studs on the turbo dump flange nicely before proceeding.
I may have missed some details, I'm going off memory here. But that's the basics of the removal. Re-installation is pretty much just the reverse, land on the rear mount first & you're golden.
It's highly recommended to bring your flywheel to a shop & have it resurfaced. If you're on a budget scuff it up with some heavier sandpaper but go even on it
Yes do the rear main seal. Might also want to do the oil pan. The XR2 uses two small half-moon seals on each end (with RTV) and RTV around the rest of the pan so there isn't a legit "Gasket"
When you unbolt the intermediate shaft to remove the transmission from the engine, thread some wire through the differential & tie it off. The spider gears are locked into place by the axles, and removing both allows them to move around. Move too far and they'll fall out of the diff and into the bottom of the trans case. THIS REQUIRES SPLITTING THE TRANSMISSION APART TO FIX, so be cautious! (it is not an easy nor pleasant task) Wiring them into place is cheap peace of mind.
Author
Topic: Looking for basic instructions to replace the clutch on a '94 XR2 (Read 6122 times)