Here's some of the discussion from 2 years ago at flatratetech.com. I've still got problems... exhaust needs replacing, and the new wires/plugs i had to buy after the engine block froze in feb suck and miss and just suck. will warranty the wires, and have to find my extra set of motorcraft plugs i bought a while back.
I did get the turbo oil leak repaired. where the metal line goes into the engine something... they had to retap the threads and all was well ($130 later... geesh)
The turbo gauge doesn't move anymore. Car still drives ok, can't tell if the turbo is working or not... but from what I've read, if it was shot or broken, the car wouldn't be drivable on the highway, right?
burygrand
Jun 1 2005, 01:43 PM
Warning: this post is extremely long and possibly boring
It is only for the true problem solvers that really want a challenge! I have included everything I felt relevant and some things that may not be but are somewhat related...
I'm having problems with a 'dead miss' on the vehicle. it seems to be related to throttle position or rpm, since it always happens between 2000-4000 on the tach, usually around 2800-3500 rpm. The car acts like it is starving for fuel, or running on 1 cyl... you feel a loss of power then a lurch, and then the boost spools up, the turbo kicks in , and the car gets power back and accelerates again. Then the cycle repeats itself... The car is at a Ford dealer who is trying to diagnose/fix the problem but they seem to be going nowhere fast. It's been 10 weeks now... The computer does not give any fault codes for this problem and the check engine light is not on. The tachometer never drops below cruising speed during the fault (ie it’s not pegging to zero or anything). It will do it in any gear, provided the rpm range is the same (I’ve done it in 4th and 3rd gear). It doesn’t matter if the cruise control is on or off, will do it in either case.
One weird thing which may/may not be related is I had a bunch of work done last summer (may-oct 2004). I had started to remove the heater core to replace it, but broke one of the extension tubes off and decided I was in over my head on all the bolts that haven't been touched in 14 years... so I towed it to the dealer. The car wouldn't start and they put a new (rebuilt) distributor on it. Then it STILL wouldn't start (ford hotline said the injectors weren't firing, and said it was the ECU), and we had the computer (ECU) rebuilt. Then it started. They replaced the heater core (and 1 week later I found there may have been a new one to put in rather than the used I had) and the evaporator to fix an AC leak. I had them convert it to the new Freon R134a at the same time. Also, they replaced fuel filter, pcv valve, changed oil, and did an AC service (flushing the lines/vents or something...). Got the car back and it was idling really high. After being told they thought I had an adaptive ignition system and because of replacing the computer, it would work it self out in a few weeks, I wound up adjusting the idle screw clockwise to bring the idle back down. The car was driving/idling okay and never thought much about it after. Since then, some days it seems to idle fine (850 +- 50rpm) and others it seems high (1200rpm) even after highway driving for 45 minutes (ac and other electrical loads off). Not sure if this is related or not.
In Jan 2005 I replaced spark plug wires (I think a mousey chewed on one of them). About 2 weeks later, I started getting my problem, but it was very slight. It would take about 20-30 miles of driving before I noticed the hesitation, and might only do it once or twice every 4-5 days of driving. I wouldn't notice it on the way to work, but after about 20 minutes of driving on the way back. It has progressively gotten worse since then, and after 5 times in the shop I finally took it in and said "I'm not picking it up until you fix this", that was the middle of March. They say they've check everything out...
Along with the hesitation, I started getting a little bit of idle warble. Slight, only about 50-100 rpm. The throttle position sensor, when wiggled by hand, would change the idle speed so they thought that was the problem. I get a used one, they put it on, and the problem seemed to go away. Two days later the hesitation/lurching was back...
After going roundy and roundy, they decided that the car was running lean, and wanted to change the VAF meter. They did this on Monday afternoon and the problem seemed to clear. Drove it Tuesday, still the problem seemed to be gone. They drove it Wednesday morning for one last spin before telling me problem solved.... It’s back. They said the TPS is testing fine on both the resistance/voltage checks...
Replacing the VAF meter didn't clear it up, but they did say it wasn't running lean anymore...
It sounds/acts like spark plug wires, so I changed them again, but those were changed too and it did it within 5 minutes of driving on new wires.
Since then, we’ve changed the ignition coil. Took it for a drive, and went about 25 miles without a peep of hesitation. Thinking that may have fixed it, I took the car home, but 8 miles into the trip home (driving through town) it started again once I hit a stretch I was getting up to 45mh... Prior to the ignition coil, the distributor cap and rotor are also new.
They emptied the fuel tank to check if there was water in the gas. The gas was fine.
Even changed the distributor again, still no change.
I had the computer retested by the people that rebuilt it (Bluestreak) and the computer tested out fine. They seem to think a good place to start is to run new wires to the computer on pins 1m and 1n. Those pins are 1N- cylinder id, which gives the rpm reference; and 1M which is the IDM, ignition diagnostic monitor signal...
I’ve asked them multiple times to check for vacuum leaks, and they say there aren’t any.
We're at a big loss here! I'm asking all the mechanics, or people that know good Capri mechanics if they've ever heard of this problem and have any suggestions.
I only know of four other cases that have been fixed. One was due to a thermostat holding bracket which holds two ground wires not being reattached with a thermostat change. One user had a bad throttle position sensor, one user had a bad VAF meter, and one user ran a new ground from the VAF meter to the neg. post of the battery I believe.
There is currently another Capri owner that's had a similar problem to me, only he's been battling it for about 2-3 years now. My problem doesn't seem to have been helped by any of the solutions above. And his father is a Ford dealer mechanic in Michigan. They haven’t been able to fix it either.
I even had them pull the crank pulley to see if I had the dreaded short nose crank wear/keyway problem. I seem to have the long nose crank engine, and the keyway was solid as a rock with no wear on the key or crank.
One thing to note, the exhaust manifold has a slight crack starting at the oxygen sensor going down (common on these cars). When they changed the sensor is when we saw the crack. I have been putting off this work since I didn’t want to introduce any other problems in changing this (missed wire, gaskets not sealing, etc). The car is a beauty to change that... have to remove the turbo and everything as a unit. Also, I started getting radiator seepage along the top of the radiator.. another common problem. Will fix the radiator the same time, if we can solve the drivability problems.
Sadly, I don’t have a ‘swap buddy’ to interchange parts with until I find it... That would be nice. I talked with Glenn at ERS, and their SBDS system, although it interfaces with the car and recognizes the vin, doesn’t have any available tests for it. Is there another type of system that will give real time signal analysis that hooks into the Capri? Oh yea, it has to be portable since it doesn’t fault in the shop.
Somehow I feel that the high idle (at times), the adjustment to the idle speed screw last fall, and the fact the check engine light never comes on (it does work, comes on when I unhook the oxygen sensor) are related... but that’s my uneducated guess.
JJ
91 xr2 turbo Capri convertible (not the mustang sister)
techman
Jun 1 2005, 06:10 PM
You should probably post in the import section, This is just a glorified Mazda!! Some problems I have seen on these are as follows. Hole burnt in ign. rotor, won't be visible looks like carbon trace cheap to fix. Tube for turbo not sealing on the bottom difficult to see but had this several times, hoist vehicle and really look closly at all the turbo ducting. bad tp sensor also inexpensive. and last the pcm (big bucks). good luck.
fordmechanic
Jun 2 2005, 03:40 AM
I know you stated you changed plugs and wires. Make sure these were Motorcraft plugs and wires! The wires from motorcraft you want are WRE-4063. The plugs are AGSP32C or equivelant. Note!!!! The plug wires for this WILL fit, however they are listed for a Escort GT which has a 1.8 l. I know this from experience. There is a Capri right next to the dealership I work at (3 houses away)that I installed those exact wires on to fix a miss like you describe.
I would also get them to hook up the smoke machine to try to find any vacuum leaks. There should have not been any reason for you to need to turn the idle screw ever.
burygrand
Jun 2 2005, 10:25 AM
I neglected to mention in the first post that I also had put a new distributor cap and rotor on the vehicle, both with no avail. I have edited the post so future reads will include that.
Fordtechnician: The plugs I put on were Bosch Platinum #4202 and the wires were Xact 2990 by G.P. Sorensen. I was never really happy with the wires, but the dealership said the Ford wires in their computer were going to cost me $450!? Can that be right? I don't know the part number they were checking, though... The plugs were a step up from the 'standard' plugs suggested (which I installed the week I got the car), and I thought I'd give them a shot thinking they may be better. The wires and plugs worked fine for several months the first time I put them on... (3 months later the heater core went out and I didn't drive the car again until the end of August.
Also, in the service manual (both the 91 as well as the 92 I looked at) has the following blurb in the ignition system description:
Motorcraft AGSP32C (naturally aspirated vehicles) or AGS32C (turbocharged vehicles) or equivalent spark plugs are used. A gasket is used to seal the spark plug against the cylinder head.
The motorcraft web site now suggests that AGSP32C are the correct plugs for the turbo cars. I don't know what the difference is, and wish I did!! Why would they initially suggest two different plugs and now only list the one? Lol, why didn't it go the other way, and the ones now available were originally listed for turbo cars...? I do know someone that has some of those plugs (AGSP32C) and if you guys think they will work fine, I will get those. Also, it would be helpful if someone can suggest a source and a price they see on the motorcraft WRE-4063 wires, it would be helpful. That way I can see if the price I'm told is in the right ballpark, because $450 doesn't seem to be in the correct state even.
Perhaps I should go ahead and do the work to replace the radiator and exhaust manifold. Since the turbo comes out, the lower turbo tube will have to be checked and at a minimum retightened on install. Perhaps the problem (if not plugs/wires) will magically disappear? I'm already out several thousand dollars on repairs, and really didn't want to compound this on a car that still might not drive after replacing the manifold/radiator, nor did I want to introduce new errors from the install.
Techman: The cap/rotor were replaced before I did the ignition coil. I suppose there may have been a problem with the coil which caused the new cap/rotor to fail? The old coil looked good, but who's to say it didn't have a problem. I did note there were no burned areas or electrical burn smell upon examination. The epoxy wasn't cracked and visually it looked fine. Will definitely bug them again about the turbo tube. If I'm not mistaken, that would be the inlet to the turbo right? The throttle position sensor was replaced with a used one. both the voltage and ohmmeter sweeps on it are fine. Although the service manual said it couldn't be adjusted, it obviously is since the mounting bolts can be moved several degrees. A call to ford hotline gave a voltage spec to set it at and that was done properly. Could it still be an issue?
Just to verify, last fall when it was idling high, I had to turn the idle air adjust screw clockwise(?) to make the screw go further down, which I believe closes or lowers air that bypasses around the throttle valve. From there I get lost and I don’t know why I had to do that.
It was a few months after this that I noticed the ‘loud exhaust sound’ coming from the car. I always thought I got a hole in the muffler, but after having it on the lift the muffler looks decent (for original) and didn’t see any noticeable holes. I would think that 4 months of driving with a hole in the muffler it would get noticeably big fast. The sound does appear to be coming from closer to the engine, so the exhaust manifold might not only be cracked but letting exhaust out too.
Thanks for the help!
JJ
McWrench
Jun 2 2005, 11:10 AM
Bosch Platinum plugs are pretty much the worst plug to put in anything. 9/10 when I get a car in my bay with a driveability issue and the customer has gone and installed those plugs, I replace them with OEM and the problem clears up.
my $0.03 (canadian)
Ron W.
Jun 2 2005, 01:09 PM
Fords part number WRE4063 has a suggested retail of $115.03. Don't know who you're calling but hang up and try a different phone number. (By the way i don't see WRE4063 listed for a 91 Capri 1.6L T/Charged, calls for WR5652 which is no longer supplied by Ford.)
burygrand
Jun 2 2005, 01:21 PM
Yes, as Fordtechnician above stated, those wires were for an escort 1.8 (motorcraft site says 91-96, plus tracer lts same years) but experience shows they worked well on a capri he saw that had similar problems. That is why I wanted to find out about those specific wires. not sure what part was looked up before, but I had called earlier before you posted and that is the same price I got, $115.03.
Thanks,
JJ
95F150
Jun 2 2005, 04:49 PM
I do not think that you are having an electical problem.
More WAG and intuition than anything else.
I would look at the fuel filter first. Even though you replaced it once, you have thrown enough parts at this that you can afford another fuel filter on the off chance it is collapsing and choking off the flow of fuel. In that same vein, I would check any rubber fuel lines for the same thing.
Next I would look at the air filter and its plumbing. I would want to be sure that there is nothing like a rag or something flopping around in there or something blocking the inlet.
Finally I would look at the exhaust. I once had a Chevy truck with a real drivability problem. Turned out it had a double walled exhaust pipe(engine to muffler, no cat) The inner wall collapsed. Imploded was the technical term they used. Think of some loose stuff in the muffler moving around and choking off the flow, or in the cat doing the same thing.
I would only look at the electrics after making sure that the fuel supply was clean and unobstructed, and that the airflow was unobstructed.
Just an old guys first thoughts. But this stuff is pretty simple to do and will establish a baseline of known entities. Except perhaps for dropping the exhaust. That may not be so simple.
WAG means wild guess.
And here's another. If I read your post correctly, all of these problems started after you did a repair to the heater core. I don't believe in coincidences. Go back there and look for damaged wires or compromised connections. Where would a mechanic have to be to effect this repair? Look everywhere he would have to stand, reach, lean over, touch. Then follow in his footsteps and see what you can see.
Good luck
Dennis W
Jun 2 2005, 09:20 PM
First thing to do next before any other work is get rid of the Bosch plugs. No matter what anyone tells you, they will not run correctly in any Ford product, and probably many others. Not sure of the technical reasons why, just experience has shown all of us that Bosch do not work in Ford products.
fordmechanic
Jun 3 2005, 04:17 AM
Correct on the Bosch theory. Ran into that more times then I can remember!
SANDBERGJ
Jun 3 2005, 06:26 AM
Not to raise a dumb question here, but has anyone thought it might be a TFI problem? Lots of intermitent electical issues here. This is right in the era of failing TFI modules.
Just a thought that I don't see anyone bringing up.
Dennis W
Jun 4 2005, 12:03 AM
'91 Capri does not use a TFI module; it is electronic ignition, but not that system.
stevef150xlt
Jun 4 2005, 10:16 PM
QUOTE
Originally posted by BTExpress:
First thing to do next before any other work is get rid of the Bosch plugs. No matter what anyone tells you, they will not run correctly in any Ford product, and probably many others. Not sure of the technical reasons why, just experience has shown all of us that Bosch do not work in Ford products.
That's why I run Motorcraft platinums in my F-150. Got 100k out of the first set.
wijoco
Jun 5 2005, 10:52 AM
I've had GM stuff that wouldn't run on Bosch plugs, too. Bizarre.
rdjb2000
Jun 5 2005, 09:32 PM
asking for nightmares if you are using non ford electronic replacement parts especially rebuilt pcm's by anyone other than Ford.Pull out all that a/market crap & use oem.
burygrand
Jun 9 2005, 11:19 AM
Got the plugs to the dealer at noon on tuesday. they are putting my original wires back on (i think they're ford ones but can't be sure) and i got some motorcraft plugs. They didn't start this until about 10:30 today. hopefully, will know today or tomorrow if it has helped at all...
Ren,
Where can I get someone knowledgeable about this ecm at ford to rebuild it? and at what cost?
the ford hotline doesn't even know what a capri is much less offer any indepth analysis help on this issue.
JJ
burygrand
Jun 14 2005, 03:26 PM
motorcraft plugs and original wires didn't change anything.
turbo now only spools to 2-3 psi. was 5 in the spring, 8 last fall.
it's just broke........
pmott
Jun 15 2005, 07:52 AM
Did you check to see if there is a leak in the intake plumbing from either the mass air flow to the throttle body, or in the turbo outlet? Check for cracks or loose connections. You need to move and flex these tubes, especially the rubber ones.
burygrand
Jun 15 2005, 08:00 AM
I definitely had them check for leaks in the turbo as Techman posted above. They said they didn't see anything. They also replaced the MAF meter, and I'm assuming they checked at that time, but hey, who knows!
Maybe if I can find someone to help me replace the radiator and exhaust manifold, things will be easier to see as I start taking things apart.
They also said they checked for vacuum leaks several times, and smoked it twice but never saw anything...
At the ford dealer, they have 6 master techs divided among 3 teams, and none of them could figure out what was happening. they had the car basically from Jan to yesterday. I decided to take it home since they obviously couldn't fix it.
burygrand
Jul 8 2005, 07:56 AM
I've been doing some reading about turbos... and this entry is starting to make sense of things for me...
http://www.answers.com/topic/turbochargerIt states the turbo starts to produce power about 2500rpm, which is exactly the start of the range where I'm having problems... Usually it was 3500rpm, but I've seen 3k and as low as 2500...
I always thought if the turbo was "going out" it was usually due to overspinning (breaking apart), loss of oil, etc, and things failed rather quickly, and not build up over a progression of months and miles.... perhaps this is proving me wrong...?
nothingtodo
Aug 3 2005, 01:07 PM
Interesting problem. I don't know how similar this car is to the turbo 2.3 cars that I am familiar with from tinkering with them.
Here's some ideas I though of quick. May be helpful or not.
ANY codes for KOEO or KOER?
Can you confirm the IAC is working ok?
Make sure the TPS is adjusted to spec and there's NO dead spots when the throttle is opened.
I wonder if the coolant temp sensor is working. Perhaps the computer still thinks the engine is not at operating temp?
Faulty grounds have caused problems for me with the mixture being too rich and computer not having a good signal ground. Check for good connections.
Make double sure there's no air leaks in the system from air cleaner to intake. Unmetered air getting in through loose clamps or faulty hoses will cause problems.
Could a bad wastegate cause this problem? Not sure about that.
I agree with using genuine Ford parts in there. get rid of those crappy plugs.
burygrand
Aug 3 2005, 02:40 PM
thanks for the reply. I have the parts I need to swap the exhaust manifold. No one seems to think a cracked manifold would cause the problem, but no one could definitely say that.
One guy (a turbo rebuilder, who wants $400+ to put a 'kit' in it) says that it could be a wastegate problem. leaking or something... said the only way to test it was to remove it and bench test it... the only service manual procedure I saw was to just check the wastegate actuator... but i suppose that wouldn't tell if it was actually seating or closing or whatever it does in there... so I guess it's possible.
I do have a turbo on the manifold I'm going to put on there, but to verify my problem I will try to just swap the manifold and see if it goes away. if not, I'll try the other turbo... i was told it is good, but have no way of actually knowing.. the radiator started leaking so that limited the driving part to try to troubleshoot. I got it back from the dealer in June, and it's sat ever since. As soon as I can find someone to help me swap this stuff I will. I found someone, but it keeps getting put off... If I had any money I'd take it somewhere, but alas that's not gonna happen any time soon.
The other thing i was told would be a leak on the intake system... i have no idea how to pressure test it... other than block the throttle body and pressurize the turbo inlet to 15-20 lbs and check for leaks... everyone I talked to said to spray carb cleaner and see if the idle slows... i sprayed all over throttle body (thinking maybe that cracked or was leaking at the gasket) but i couldn't really tell if it did anything or not. if I had to guess, I'd say it wasn't leaking... but who knows I'm not the best mechanic in the world, but I can read and understand what they usually want done... even if I'm not any good at actually doing it.
I wanted to try swapping the iac/bpa valve... have someone with a n/a capri, but not sure if they're the same or not. If so he'd send it to me for cost of shipping to test it. if not, don't know what I'd do since they're so expensive to just try. I have the service manual, evtm, and the pced manuals but don't know where to find the procedure to test that.
The dealer has tested the TPS multiple times, and swear it's working fine. they set it properly, and the voltage/resistance sweeps are okay. I just have to take their word on that one.
The computer doesn't give ANY codes at all.
For coolant temp sensor, the gauge on the dash has been reading okay. if it was faulty, wouldn't I be seeing screwy dash readings? it's cold when engine cold, and warms up to normal when engine is warm.
I've told them hundreds of times to check the grounds and redo them. I've gone through them too, but I still wouldn't rule out a bad ground...
I have the original plug wires back on it with motorcraft plugs. They didn't do anything as of yet...
I need to find someone that can actually troubleshoot this and not just replace parts at random hoping they find it (like the dealer seems to do).
JJ
spooledu
Aug 3 2005, 09:33 PM
I am no way a tech but I would pressure test the intake track. Do you have a aftermarket boost gauge? Cap of the turbo and fill the intake track with 10-15psi and use some soapy water to check for leaks. Boost leaks are a bitch!
spooledu
Aug 3 2005, 09:38 PM
I guess I should have read your last post first. Go to the home depot racing store and get a rubber fernco and a cap that fits over the turbo intake. Get a push in shrader valve and put it on the cap so you can fill the system with air. You are also going to need some way of check how many psi you have. It is best to use one of those air storage tanks. Spray all vacuum lines tb and anything on the intake track down with soapy water. It not hard to do and I think that will definitely help your problems out.
Rick Freeman Jr.
Aug 4 2005, 04:35 AM
I see a couple of potential problems here. First and foremost is the cracked manifold, second would be the loud exhaust noise. The manifold leak will be variable (based on pressure, and causing a lack of) on a turbo car, and will play havoc with O2 readings, and definitely needs to be corrected. Tha loud exhaust may be part of the same problem. Has anyone checked the voltage available on the coil? I had a turbo Sunfire drive me nuts with a coil that could only muster about 24KV. IMHO, a turbo car needs a coil capable of 40KV minimum.
burygrand
Aug 4 2005, 09:42 AM
Not that I'm aware of, but it does have a new coil in it...
what's the best way to test it? I have an old Simpson analog (260? cannot remember, the big black ones), but I don't have any high voltage leads... can I make one with a resistor?
Can the auto parts stores check that?
JJ
QUOTE
Originally posted by Rickracer:
Has anyone checked the voltage available on the coil? I had a turbo Sunfire drive me nuts with a coil that could only muster about 24KV. IMHO, a turbo car needs a coil capable of 40KV minimum.
Rick Freeman Jr.
Aug 4 2005, 04:18 PM
You'd need something like an HEI spark tester, preferably variable, and something that will read spark KV. I use a Snap-On MT2700 DIS probe. The auto parts stores wouldn't even know what you were talking about, much less have the ability and equipment to test it. :cool:
burygrand
Aug 7 2005, 05:51 PM
Ok here's an update on my problem:
5.75 hours of travel, 11.75 hours of working straight through with only a short 10 min coke run (no lunch or dinner), 6 layers of grease, one cut nut, one cut bolt, one snapped stud, and three-four belly pan bolts snapped off in the frame, a different turbo, a different (non-cracked) exhaust manifold, another new/different o2 sensor (new one was on manifold I bought), new exhaust manifold gasket, new turbo outlet/cat gasket, a different radiator, visual inspection of timing marks on intake and exhaust cam, and an hour of playing with distributor timing, known good spark plug wires to distributor (old ones had tiny little sparks all in a row in the pitch black night, and couldn't find/didn't have coil wire) and a recharged battery, I'm no better off than I was Friday...
At least in my case, I believe I can say with 99% certainty that the cracked exhaust manifold isn't causing this, and the turbo rebuilder's idea that it could be the wastegate leaking by is probably not the problem... What are my chances that both turbos are doing this? Boy, I was really hoping this would shed some light on something...
What seems to be happening (I've always called it a dead miss, but when the engine bogs down) is backfiring. The turbo kicks on and is able to provide more air into the system and it seems to overcome it. The problem is still in the same rev range (gear doesn't seem to matter, as it will do it just as well in 1st as 5th) of 2000-3500rpm (gee, cruising range). If I floor it through the range so the turbo is on at the time, it doesn't hesitate/backfire/miss, and seems to pull through nicely. p.s. this isn't helping my muffler/cat, as the front end noise went away but the back is getting much worse as I drive it.
Are there any mechanics on here close to central IL, or even in the Chicago area that would have an idea what to do? The dealer's idea of just making me replace parts until I'm broke isn't working anymore. Or do I need to look for a tuner shop with a dyno or something, maybe those guys would have a better idea? Any recommendations?
rockerc
Aug 8 2005, 07:11 PM
Id talk to a reputable Mazda dealer around there or find another F/L/M dealer. That is the 1.6 mazda motor. No decent shop should be just having you throw parts at your car just because they are too lazy to diag right in the first place!?!?
burygrand
Aug 8 2005, 07:56 PM
I have talked to the mazda dealership in town. they really have no clue about the car since it's a ford ignition system/computer/etc...
my biggest obstacle is nobody has any test equipment to get readings while on the road...
hydafl
Aug 8 2005, 08:02 PM
Do you happen to have a broken crankshaft? If this occurs you timing will never be corrcet and if I'm not mistaken this could be your cause for the problems you have described.
burygrand
Aug 8 2005, 08:55 PM
Thanks Hydafl, but yes, we've looked at the crankshaft. This engine has the large nose crank and it didn't even look worn at all.
2dum2quit
Aug 10 2005, 10:47 PM
I must say it seems to me you are getting the run around from both Ford and the Mazda dealers. First because this car was sold by Ford the dealer should know how to fix it. Second the Mazda dealer was wrong about the electronics being Ford, if the cars Vin starts with a J --- its a Mazda.
Now let me try to help a little, to check this engine for vacuum leaks the whole system has to be tested. this means from the vane air flow box on the filter side to the cyl head. Any leak that lets air into the motor and doesn't pass through air flow meter means the engine will run lean. Simple!!
I have a wiring schematic for this car on front of me and it says there are tree grounding places. the first is on the engine near the thermostat housing, the second is near the washer reservoir and last at the rear of the engine compartment on left side[drivers side] near stut tower.. Make sure they are clean and tight. the terminals at the ecu are2R , 3A, and 3G. with engine running these should test as 0 Volts to a good known ground, if not fix wiring.
This car also has a separate Knock Control Module and boost pressure sensor and these may be the cause of some of your grief. Check the hose going to the boost sensor for cracks, leaks or being pluggged up inside. Try disconnecting the Knock Sensor and see what happens.
That's all I can think of for now, maybe later I can come up with some more ideas.
burygrand
Aug 11 2005, 08:04 AM
QUOTE
Originally posted by 2dum2quit:
I must say it seems to me you are getting the run around from both Ford and the Mazda dealers. first because this car was sold by Ford the dealer should know how to fix it. Second the Mazda dealer was wrong about the electronics being Ford, if the cars Vin starts with a J --- its a Mazda.
The ford dealer has been really nice, but unfortunately having the car for 4 months (5 last time!) has not let them be any more knowledgeable about the vehicle….
The VIN starts with a 6, not J.
The car is based on the Mazda 323 chassis. But this ECU has 4x the number of inputs the 323 ecu has. True, it's MECS based, but to my knowledge there is no Mazda that has this ecu in it, hence they really don't know how it operates nor have the test equipment to deal with it.
I will once again check the grounds that you mention. I believe I have done all of those, since they sound familiar. Also, I can test the ECU connections you recommend. I will double check the hoses you mention. The knock sensor and boost pressure sensor are about the only two things that haven't been played with.
Thanks for your input
JJ
burygrand
Sep 28 2005, 10:46 AM
Just a quick update. I've been driving it a bit with the o2 disconnected, and it's standable though the mileage sucks...
I received a computer from someone who said he took it out of a running car. Put that in (with o2 disconnected at first) and it was idling at 750rpm which looked promising. I had just been running the car on my computer and it was around 1000. drove down the road and it 'seemed' to have more power but who knows. Stopped and plugged in the o2, and it's back to its own tricks.
If he can find his distributor, he will mail me one of those as well. Couldn't find it by the time he mailed the cpu. At least I can be doubly sure that it's not the cpu or distributor before having someone try to chase the problem. If I knew how to check the timing on this, I would with the other computer, just in case it's a little off due to changing computers (wouldn't think so, but stranger things have happened).
If I'm not mistaken, it seems to backfire and stuff just before the turbo is kicking in and I get my power back. Does that make any sense? I'm sure I'm due for a new exhaust now, but don't want to ruin a good one if the problem still persists (let alone dumping money in a paperweight).
JJ
burygrand
Nov 11 2005, 08:53 AM
Another small update. The turbo we put in a few months ago either leaks at the seals a bit or the oil lines aren't tight. it isn't blowing out really bad, but there is definitely oil all over the turbo and you can smell it. I still have my old turbo on the cracked exhaust manifold I can put back on. Not sure about the status of the radiator, either. It's probably a loose hose as well...
I'm still looking for someone who can help with the car...
Thanks,
JJ
