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[Rocketman]

The most common thing with the blower motor is the resistors, and occasionally the switch itself.

The HVAC controls are all cable driven.

As far as motor differences, early 91's had the small-nose crank. The 93 would have had the upgraded crank. Otherwise there's no difference

[BlewitUp]

Thats what I had figured on all accounts.  Thanks!  That's what I was hoping.  I was thinking of changing the timing belt soon too.  I don't know when it was last done and I would hate for it to go during the winter.  I don't really have a garage to work in.  I guess I will find out for sure then what motor I have.

I would like to get the 1.8 and matching trans out of an Escort to rebuild and have ready to go when I cook this one.  I am starting to smell a turbo in my near future.

[Rocketman]

Do the N/A 1.8 DOHC w/ manual trans dude... you will be able to keep up or beat a stock XR2 no problems.

Can always go all-out N/A! (I am making ITB kits for the BP) or supercharger (I also have plans to make a supercharger kit for the 1.8 that bolts in place of the upper plenum on the manifold, to suite a M62) And the BP's are easy enough to turbo, I put together a turbo kit for only a few hundred on my 1.8 swap  

You're already ahead of the game with your hydraulic clutch setup. I think a set of hybrid axles could be put together to make the swap real friendly too. I want to see more people doing that swap!

Alternatively, you could grab a stock XR2 trans & axles, convert to a clutch cable. You wouldn't have to deal with custom engine mounts or any axle problems then

[blue93]

You make sense Rocket, but the way that hydraulic clutch shifts is so nice.  It's a tough thing to part with for performance because it IS performance...

[Rocketman]

Personally, I prefer the feel & responsiveness of the cable. I've driven many hydraulic clutches, and the feeling is just... vague? But that's my preference.

[BlewitUp]

The hydro is smooth, but I agree, cable response is much better. There is a poop load of after market parts for the 1.8 and same goes for the trans in those cars. My Ranger bottom end has just been over balanced and should be good for 9k hope there is no valve float! Just have to get my grubby hands on a variable twin scroll to spread the power out enough!

Saw a few 1.8's in the bone yard yesterday. Found two capri's there too! I need to figure out what's up with the heat in there so I can get the parts I need.

[Rocketman]

The transmission in the Escort/Protege GT is the same internally as the Capri, with the exception of a few gear ratios. There isn't much available for the trans, aside from an LSD (which will work for the Capri, too)

Im not sure what you're describing as a "poop-load" of aftermarket parts, it's pretty similar to the 1.6 actually, especially if you know where to look. Which parts in particular are you referring to?

[BlewitUp]

Well, we have Cosworth to thank.  They really built the piss out of an Escort.  This lead to a ton of knock off's and people really looking at these little motors.  As you said, you need to know where to look, but the Escort has quite the following.  Engine parts may not be off the shelf, but I am willing to bet if you called Diamond for pistons they wouldn't need anything more from you other than money.  Same for rods through Crower or Oliver.  I believe RE makes billet cranks too.  Yes you will pay for it, but you would pay just as much for that kind of quality even for a Honda or anything else.  SCCA has seen quite the number of Escorts too.  

You said yourself, the rods are the weak point in the motor.  So even at a mild build, you could run the hypertech, or forged.  Stock crank would probably hold till somewhere around 300hp.  These and the Escort motors both have great Rod/Stroke ratio’s .  Stock Crank, forged rods and pistons, with a little balancing and boost I really think you could get 300 reliable hp.

Budget racing works in our favor here.

As for the trans?  Well, you got me there.  I don't know.  I was mainly referring to the motor on parts availability.  I'm sure if you have the cash, you could get an outstanding trans.  The only reason I can back this statement is because they ran this combo so frequently in SCCA and rally.  There has to be something.

Is it worth the money?  I don’t know, how much do you like your Capri?  You could buy a used Vette in equal condition and go just as fast by the time you build everything.  That’s really what it comes down to.

[Rocketman]

The older Escorts were toyed with by Cosworth, however the newer ones with the BP were not. The BP is a Mazda-derived engine (as is the 1.6), the longblock is also common with the 95+ first gen Miata.

There are a handful of aftermarket rods at this point now, even H-Beam sets as low as $230 (check eBay) ETD Racing is one of the cheapest brand-name companies though, the rods are the same between the 1.6 and 1.8

SuperTech, Wiseco, JE Pistons, all make aftermarket forged pistons for the BP. Mostly for the Miata crowd but there's a few BG chassis escorts out there that are built to the hilt.

I'll say though, (IMO) there are not an ass-ton of parts available (compared to most any other brand/manufacturer). FlyinMiata has the only billet crank I know of, but it's for the BP to 2.0 stroker kit, big $$$ there.

If you're serious about a 1.8 swap then check out www.clubprotege.com forums - the BP gurus there know what to do to get power

-Rocket

[blueamber]

Heat? in August? Where ARE you?

The heater controls are all manual cables.  There is a connection at the end of the temperature control cable that is nylon and breaks, drivers side under the dash near the middle...I've seen somewhere where someone made a replacement part, I used to attach a string to it, run it out near the shifter and pull to get heat...I eventually pulled the cable and attached connection out of a parts car and replaced it...all this for heat, and I'm in Florida!!!

Good luck...Chris

[BlewitUp]

Yeah, I live in Michigan.  I leave for work at 5:30 and the heat is always nice to get the dew off of the windshield.  

What I have done so far:
-Flushed heater core and watched all the crap fly out.
-New heater core hoses
-Got up to temp, and hoses feel nice and hot.
- I can see the cable at the switch/controls, it is connected and working as it should.  Below, I can see the cable moving the little half circle piece with a "L" sort of track in it.  I am assuming this is the Nylon thing you are talking about.  It also seems to function as it should.  I am wondering if the diverter door came apart in there somehow.

This is lame.  I have a feeling I need to tear apart the whole dash.  

I FINALLY got the radio fixed.  HA HA HA.  The antenna wire and antenna base was corroded to hell.  I found two Capri's at the junk yard and I was able to score the antenna assy., and a wire from a Taurus.  I now have AM,FM,CD,MP3CD, Bluetooth, USB, HIJKLMNOP.

Little more off topic, I found an extra oil dip stick in the cowl.  Anyone need one? HA.  This car is really showing its age.  Under the car, there is severe rot behind the rear wheels.  Next spring I am going to have to tackle that.  

I swear.  I cannot pick out a used car for myself to save my life.  I mean, I guess the ones I pick run forever, but they always have a ton of little BS problems like these.  Maybe that’s just part of buying a used car.  Thanks for letting me vent.

-Ryan

[BlewitUp]

I forgot to say thanks.  So, THANKS! Ha.

Rocket:

I guess you’re right.  I had the wires crossed.  I had the two motors mixed up.  But really, what more do you need other than rods and pistons?  Valves and springs?  They are available.  In my experience, if you can get rods and pistons, the rest isn’t too bad.  Surprisingly, it isn’t all THAT much more to have costume stuff made.  I had to have custom pistons made, I could have used off the shelf ones but I didn’t want to bore my motor 20 over, I didn’t want stock cams, and I wanted longer rods.  Off the shelf price: $800.  Custom price: $913.52.

Big ticket items:
Rods- $500
Pistons-$500
Valves- $200
Springs-$150
Bearings-$200
Rings-$350

Naturally you would have to be handy in the fabrication department by welding your own manifolds.  Maybe re-grind the cams.  There is no doubt it is going to cost money.  Anything 50HP over stock starts getting pricy.

Realistically, you looking at 3G’s to rebuild the motor.  Of course you can cut a lot off the prices, and I am leaving out a ton, but for a pretty bulletproof engine overhaul, that’s not too bad.  Again though, Is it worth putting into a Capri?  I think I like your idea of just going the 1.8 route.  Maybe a little balancing to get the rev’s higher, but that’s it.  Not too high though, otherwise you would be looking at valve float and start playing with high dollar items as mentioned above.

[BlewitUp]

No luck with the heat still.  Anyone else have that little diverter door break off in there?  I was thnking maybe there is a bunch of crap laying on the heater core, but then I realized that I wouldn't have the same amount of air flow when the heat is on...

Can anyone else think of something I am missing?

Thanks,
-Ryan