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Hi guys, does anyone know if any other cars caliper rebuild kit fit? One of my boots ripped up and now my car constantly leaks. Had a guy tell me use Miata but now it’s ten times worst. I tried looking it up on rock auto but it’ll only get here end of month or next month, so now I’m a bit carless, just want it to run again.

So for people runnin rocketchips, do they use OEM ring gaps? Because the rocketchip runs higher boost with a new fuel map and higher RPM (from what I understand).

Which flange specifically?

Does anyone have a pdf of the flange or a step file so that I can have the flanges laser cut out? It would be faster the drawing out the flange from the start.

thanks!

Ring gap spec depends on what you plan on doing with the car, and what parts you are putting on the car. With a stock ring on a stock rebuild running stock boost levels, use OEM specs. They are buried in the FSM, in the engine section.

https://web.archive.org/web/20151002171537/http://techcapri.home.comcast.net/~techcapri/ServiceManuals/1991/Group%2021%20-%20Engines-Gasoline.pdf

Top Ring - 0.2-0.4mm
Second - 0.15-0.3mm
Bottom - 0.2-0.7mm

It's all on the last few pages of that link.


If you plan on running more boost, or are using fancy rings, then it gets complicated. The short answer is, you need to widen the gap. By how much...you'll want to do your own research there. Start with the ring manufacturer's recommendations and go from there. You want to avoid the ring closing up due to thermal expansion from the increased heat. This will blow the ring lands off your piston, and mulch that cylinder.


Edit- Vacuum diagram on sticker on hood of car. Can also be found in FSM

So I'm rebuilding the engine on my 91 XR2 and all I have left to do is the piston rings and I can't find the end gap length for our motor. I found a thread where someone said they got the end gap "down to spec." Does anyone know the piston ring end gap for our car? Also, is there a vacuum line diagram that I can refer to when bolting everything back up?

Undo the two nuts for the front transmission mount from the underside of the crossmember, then use a jack with a block of wood on the engine oil pan to lift it up by an inch or so.

When you do this, you will roll the engine/tranny backwards giving you way more clearance for removing/installing the slave cylinder. Which can now be done easily from above by reaching down to it.

hi I am a first-time mechanic and the clutch slave cylinder went bad on my Capri. As it's located in a hard-to-reach location I was wondering if you guys had any tips on getting to it. Thanks

No sorry. You get the threaded sleeve, the big nuts, the coil plates and of course the springs which are sold separately. Go to the Ford Festiva group. That is a common mod on those cars.