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[azgtx]

Yes the outlet will pull off..twist and pull. I was saying that when you get the outlet off, check the flare on the bypass pipe and check for decay. If...you need to replace the pipe you will need to remove the manifold and turbo. My suggestion to the lower corner manifold stud is to replace it with a bolt. I have done that to every B series I have had. I got real tired of having to bend and pry the mounting ear on the pipe.

[SHOwn]

Gotcha. I hope and pray it doesn't come to that!

[SHOwn]

Prayers answered! The bypass is in great shape!

 I have one more question. Is it possible to torque the cam sprockets without using the camshaft flats? I just replaced my valve cover gasket 3 weeks before the crank pulley loosened up and I don't want to take it apart again.

I don't believe my cam seals leak much, if anything, but I have new cam seals with the timing belt kit and I was thinking to,put them on, but I'm not sure I can adequately brace the cam sprockets with a channel lock to one of the spokes. That puts the resistance of the torquing all on the key way assembly instead of the camshaft body.

Anyone ever done it this way?

I'll just leave well enough alone and leave the old seals intact if this is a bad idea.

[azgtx]

How happy will you be when those old cam seals start leaking after you put it all back together. My God man do it right the first time. You need to hold the cams while torquing the sprocket nuts and you will need to hold them both when installing the belt and lining up the marks. Complete timing kit 125.00, time and labor and not to mention the frustration 500.00, replacing a 20.00 cover seal to to the damn job right....priceless. All depends on how you take I told you so's I guess.

[Pappy T]

http://www.miata.net/garage/holdcams.jpg    This is how I held mine .

[mitch1204]

Yeah it's not a big deal changing cam seals. Just a thing you need to do.

To get involved with restoring old vehicles you have to love working on them. Cam seals is just one more challenge. That's why I mentioned the head gasket earlier. No sense going back and turning bolts you turned before. But to each his own. 😊

I put my wrench on the cam square and rotated it until It rest on the head. Let the head hold it.

Pappy got a great idea. I'll have to remember that.

[chrispoe]

http://www.miata.net/garage/holdcams.jpg    This is how I held mine .

That's a great idea.


When I replaced my cam sprockets and timing belt, I didn’t take the valve cover off. I just used a deep walled socket and an extension through the cams spokes onto the bolts behind the cam to stop it from turning while tightening the retaining bolt and to position the cam for the new belt.

[SHOwn]

Thanks Chris, that's exactly what I was looking for. I did take the sprockets off and change the the cam seals. It was a good thing I did. When I went to loosen the intake sprocket, it wasn't torqued, but not loose yet. It did have some kind of thread locker on there, so it wasn't going to come apart, but it could have loosened up enough for the pin to come out of the slot and the valves to stop functioning. And even though there was no leakage with the old seals, I replaced them.

I cleaned up everything, gave the brackets and pulleys a coat of paint, and reassembled it all Saturday night. So much for that extra hour of sleep, I finished at 6 am and that's after the time change!

The shiny alternator is the original one rebuilt by our local shop, Adema Alternator in Coopersville. It was another good move to bring it in along with the 94 alternator I had in my parts trove in for service. It turned out that something wasn't quite right with the voltage regulator, so they tested the 94 and reused its regulator to rebuild mine.

All is well, no leaks, no wobbles or vibrations. I had to trim off almost 2" of the new lower radiator hose due to the excess length buckling at the lowest bend. The replacement front motor mount prooved to be the cure for the hoppy-jumpy clutch release I would get sometimes, for the last 30k! Mmm, smooth!

Thanks again to all who talked this retired body man off the ledge!

[SHOwn]

Oh, and here's my tip for those replacing a pulley with wallered out bolt holes. Don't throw it away, mount it to the pulley boss nice and tight so you can use it with vice grips to one of the slots, and another vice grip to the first with a pipe extension to secure the crankshaft while tightening the main bolt. Once the main bolt is torqued, replace the pulley with your new junkyard one, and use brand new 10.9 hardness bolts with locktite to secure the "new" pulley.