I've always had my valves done at the machine shop. Had a friend that ran one and even did it myself sometime. Wonder what the difference is in the final product.
The only engine I've ever had head work done at a shop for was the RB26DETT in my old '91 R32. Other than that, I've always done the head stuff myself. Then again, I've never needed any major work done to a head besides on that one, which I had the seats cut out for bigger valves on. The thing with head work is that it's extremely time consuming, which means expensive. Seeing as I'm a frugal man, that's not gonna work for me. Besides, I've done this a few times now. Enough where I'd like to think I'd know if something wasn't right. I guess we'll see in a month or two when I fire this one up for the first time.
EDIT:
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I pulled apart a couple of the lifters, and they are NASTY. I bit the bullet and ordered a new set. Should be here on Thursday. They were only about $70.00, and available on Amazon of all places. Hopefully by the end of this weekend, I'll have the head back together.
SECOND EDIT:
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Well shit, I went on a little shopping spree. I'm close enough to the finish line that I decided it's time to order the rest of the crap that I'm going to need to finish up this engine. Here's what's coming:
1. 4x Bosch Spark Plugs
2. A Gates Water Pump
3. A Gates Thermostat
4. A Gates Timing Belt Kit (The belt, tensioners, and spring)
5. 4x SKP Fuel Injector Connectors (I destroyed them when pulling the engine. Ooops)
6, A Standard Motor Products Spark Plug Wire Set
7. 5 quarts of Amazon Basics conventional 5w30 oil
I'm just going to run the cheap oil for the first 1000 miles or so as a break in oil, then switch over to a higher quality, probably full synthetic, oil. Questions for you guys, though. What oil do you run? What weight? The sticker under the hood lists like 20 different viscosities for varying temperature ranges, and is pretty confusing. I just went with the safe bet. Also, should I run a zinc additive or anything for the break in? I know it's not a flat tappet setup, but I've heard it can really help with seating in the rings. I usually splurge and get some fancy break-in specific oil, but that seemed pretty overkill for a 136hp stock engine rebuild. I'm leaving the boost amount alone until it's broken in. Thoughts?
THIRD EDIT:
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Sorry for all the edits guys. Does anyone know anyplace other than Summit where I can get the ARP head studs? Their are back ordered for too long. I see Flyin' Miata has them, but they want $150 for them which is frankly ridiculous. They are also a different part number on there. I'll do it if I have to, but I'm not even sure those ones will work.