Well I don't know about Mr. Trash Talker and his rant about chips and tuners. I prefer to tune the ECU or chip it any day over the archaic caveman approach that I did. I have even used the APEXi SAFC II and NEO to tune in my Turbo 2.3 Mustang and Merkur. They worked great for me! The other reason(s)I did it this way was because u could tell the screw was messed with, the car ran good but was still off and I am not made of money and didn't have means for a chip or a tuner or a wideband at the time. So I had to do something with what I had. I adjusted the screw all the way in and it richened the mixture up a lot. I agree with both of you as it being an idle adjustment. Whether it was supposed to richen the mixture or not, it did. I had to turn the idle plunger where the cable hooks all the way in to get desired idle. Adjusted the MBC and drove it around the block, got 14 psi showing on the stock gauge after a couple of tries. I know the stock gauges suck, but hey its all I had to work with. The A/F was pig rich. I backed the TB screw out 2 full turns, then reset idle. A/F ratio was still rich at 14 psi but not as bad as before and no black smoke from the exhaust. I filled it up with gas (93 octane) drove it around until near empty. Filled up again, calculated mpg and I got 20mpg on that first tank compared to the 23mpg before adjustment, so I know she was way too rich. I turned the screw out 1.5 more turns and filled up with gas. Drove that tank out keeping an eye on the a/f gauge. Was still rich on the gauge, but better, got 27 mpg. Filled up again, Adjusted the screw 1 more turn and idle one more time, drove through that tank and pulled down 30+mpg with a/f gauge just into the rich zone under boost. This was done on an extended road trip with open road and stop and go traffic all in one. Now is this a good way to tune in your motor? HELL NO!!! This is dangerous for the motor and your wallet if not watched carefully. Did it work on a bare bones budget? HELL YES!!! All it cost me was some time, patience and some panic attacks when I went under boost. I have since driven the car well over 1000 miles since the last adjustment and have had no adverse affects on the car or drivability. Will I leave it this way, no I doubt it. I am back in a better financial position than before and will be getting a chip and a wideband as soon as possible. Definitely a wideband first, just to see how effective or ineffective the caveman tune is working.
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Topic: Boost w/o chip, Other Body Kits and Springs (Read 2534 times)