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[supercowmoo3]

So I got my car plugged in at school and it showed a code three which leads to an ignition system problem and someone's been in there before and messed with some wires and shit so I'm not sure how it's suppossed to be so I've printed out some wiring diagrams but they didn't really help. If someone could tell me exactly what a code three means then that would be really useful and is really appreciate it. I've only ever really worked on diesels so a gasoline ignition system isn't all that familiar to me. I'm going to call my grandfather as well and see what he says but I still need more information as to what a code three is for

[supercowmoo3]

I'm going to guess and say that this has to do with the mechanical advance part of the distributor. Some information for everyone, all the vacuum lines are new, new plugs, plug wires and new distributor cap. what makes me think the mechanical advance is acting up is it feels like when it's under load, it starts to get weird. It starts to stumble and it feels like it's losing power and then it kicks in and you're going again. It doesn't always do it at 5200 rpm it's random at the top end when I'm pushing it, when there's load. When I'm going down hill it doesn't seem to be as big of a problem. If anyone knows if this part of the distributor can get seized up and start working when it feels like it that'd be really useful information to have

[Rocketman]

You could check the mechanical advance, and also check the distributor's main bearings for play.
I think people generally replace the ignitor when it throws a code and they're good.
Maybe someone else can chime in.

[chrispoe]

The code 3 can’t be set from a mechanical advance issue. A code 3 occurs when cam position output frequency doesn’t match the output of the igniter.
Sounds to me like you're in the early stages of igniter module failure. The module is failing to switch on and off and may be causing weak spark causing a loss of power under load. As you increase the rpm the problem generally becomes worse due to the lagging response time of a failing module.

[supercowmoo3]

That sounds about right. I can ease into about 4k rpm fine but when I put the engine under hard load it lags and power comes on in pulses as if it's unsure of itself. I had the engine idling today and when I snapped the throttle open it lagged and but when I eased on the throttle it was fine. Does anyone know how you can test for that sensor being bad? Or would I just buy the new sensor and hope that was the problem?

[chrispoe]

Only way that I know of is with a dual channel oscilloscope.

[supercowmoo3]

Okay updates lol. Firstly it was the igniter but it was only a bad connection and some sand paper and messing with the terminals corrected that fairly well. But then there was a small coolant leak which sprayed coolant into the distributor cap and shorted out my ignition. So I replaced the little 90 degree hose from behind the thermostat to the steel coolant line then cleaned up the distributor cap and rotor and other parts that had coolant on then. Put it back together and haven't had problems with the car since I also tampered with the ignition timing a bit then backed it off until it didn't detonate and it seems to run better. Hopefully when I get my rabbit finished and on the road I can put a custom exhaust on my capri and intake. That'll make it sound and breath a lot better. Things have been good, I did a coolant flush and oil change as well. That's all lol