Tech, Repairs, Upgrades > Capri N/A 89-94

no spark/no tach but changing distributor internals didn't solve problem

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Dmaggs:
I just recently bought a '93 N/A non-runner. It currently has no spark and that's why I'm working to diagnose.

I have fully disassembled the distributor and understand I have 4 electrical devices in it: 1) radio noise suppressor (little/mounted to outside), 2) ignition control module (mounted to the outside), 3) pick up coil (inside cap and connected to ignitor), and 4) ignitor (inside cap and connected to pick up coil).

Based on posts I have read on here I ran through the diagnostic tests. I have 12V at my ignition coil and the coils ohms are in spec. When cranking, I do not have the expected 6V on the negative side of the coil. I have .1V to .25V there instead. I moved on to the distributor. I immediately suspect the ignitor because the tachometer does not bounce when I hit the starter. I put in a different ignitor and no change. It's totally possible I have two bad ignitors. Is there any way to test an ignitor off of the car with my multimeter?

I tested the pick up coil and I have continuity that's in spec for it. For good measure, I tried a spare one as well. I tried a spare ignition control module too--that didn't help either.

At this point, I have two distributors worth of electronic components and no joy. I cleaned every ground in the engine bay that I could find (reference manuals to sort out missing ones).

Next steps? I am going to try and hunt each wire running of the distributor and trace it back to its source. I have the wiring diagram but am having some trouble reading it. Does anyone have a simple text list of the wires leading off the distributor by color and where they go? That would be super helpful!

I will try cleaning connectors and fuse panels next--I did not get all of those when I worked on all the grounds.

At what point do I decide the problem isn't in the distributor at all? I don't see how it could be anywhere else but I'm open to all ideas on this hunt for now! Thanks for your thoughts.

EShepherd:

--- Quote from: Dmaggs on April 06, 2023, 02:57:21 AM ---I just recently bought a '93 N/A non-runner. It currently has no spark and that's why I'm working to diagnose.

I have fully disassembled the distributor and understand I have 4 electrical devices in it: 1) radio noise suppressor (little/mounted to outside), 2) ignition control module (mounted to the outside), 3) pick up coil (inside cap and connected to ignitor), and 4) ignitor (inside cap and connected to pick up coil).

Based on posts I have read on here I ran through the diagnostic tests. I have 12V at my ignition coil and the coils ohms are in spec. When cranking, I do not have the expected 6V on the negative side of the coil. I have .1V to .25V there instead. I moved on to the distributor. I immediately suspect the ignitor because the tachometer does not bounce when I hit the starter. I put in a different ignitor and no change. It's totally possible I have two bad ignitors. Is there any way to test an ignitor off of the car with my multimeter?

I tested the pick up coil and I have continuity that's in spec for it. For good measure, I tried a spare one as well. I tried a spare ignition control module too--that didn't help either.

At this point, I have two distributors worth of electronic components and no joy. I cleaned every ground in the engine bay that I could find (reference manuals to sort out missing ones).

Next steps? I am going to try and hunt each wire running of the distributor and trace it back to its source. I have the wiring diagram but am having some trouble reading it. Does anyone have a simple text list of the wires leading off the distributor by color and where they go? That would be super helpful!

I will try cleaning connectors and fuse panels next--I did not get all of those when I worked on all the grounds.

At what point do I decide the problem isn't in the distributor at all? I don't see how it could be anywhere else but I'm open to all ideas on this hunt for now! Thanks for your thoughts.

--- End quote ---

https://www.techcapri.com/Wiring.html This is the factory wiring diagram for the whole car. Dizzy connector is in section A8 on the first page.

https://werbatfik.com/Capri_Service_Manual.htm This is links for the factory service manual on Rocketman's website.

If you want to wait for Rocketman to chime in, I'm sure he can give you better information than I can. I've never had issues with my ignition system, so I can only really give you secondhand information that I've read or heard. I believe that there is an ignition control module within the distributor assembly, and this is usually the culprit when you have no tach signal on the dash when cranking. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1191816&cc=1196636&pt=7172&jsn=1868 It should look like this. I think it's a pretty common issue.

chrispoe:
Do you have about 12v on the black/white and the yellow/blue wire at the ignition coil while the ignition switch is in the run position and not cranking?

While cranking, you mention you have .25v on the yellow/blue at the ignition coil, what voltage do you have on the black/white wire when cranking?

If the black/white wire voltage is dropping out while cranking, then the distributor is probably working and your problem is the 12v supply to the ignition coil.


The wiring at the distributor:
Black/white wire = internal ignition module enable
Yellow/blue = crank signal out to ignition coil/tach
Light green = fixxed amount timming adjustment for high altitude(internal module)
Yellow = cylinder id signal to ECU
Black= ground to cylinder id signal

The internal ignition module gets ground power from its mounting to the distributor and when the module triggers, it sends a sinking signal(ground) to the coil/tach.

NEDREBEL:
When I lost spark on mine, it ended up being a corroded terminal, I believe it was a green wire, by the battery, under the cruise control.

Dmaggs:
When the ignition is on and not cranking I have 12V on the black/white wire at the coil. I have no voltage on the yellow/blue wire at the coil when the ignition is on and not cranking (if the ignition coil two wire connector is unplugged). Once I plug the connecter in the the ignition coil and back probe it I have the same 12 V on both wires being fed into the ignition coil via the black/white wire.

When I crank the enginw the voltage on both wires drops to about 10V.

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