TeamCapri
Tech, Repairs, Upgrades => Capri XR-2 89-94 => Topic started by: annie151 on March 02, 2011, 03:21:00 AM
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Hi everyone....
I need to change my oil pan gasket and I am missing something. This must be easy for everyone but me because I cannot find a thread on it. what do I have to loosen up or remove to free the oil pan?
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Oil pan gasket has about 13 bolts around it, or 10 if it's an early model. Unbolt those then the tank should fall either with a bar, or just let it set overnight as long as it's drained.
Unless you mean an automatic transmission pan.
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Sorry forgot to mention it is a 92 xr2 manual trans. I have done that, the oil pan is loose, but it hits the crossmember brace that is in the way and there is no way to manover around that. Can I remove this brace without affecting anything else, or is there an easier way around it?
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I don't believe that it would affect anything, just make sure to put it back when you're done. It's for rigidity, more then actual support.
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Thanks...it sure is alot of work just for an oil pan gasket.
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Warning!: The big black cross member holds the engine and transmission up. You must support the engine from the top before removing that
Loosen the engine mount from that black bar and lift the engine up to get to the two hard to get bolts.
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Serious?....all this just to change an oil pan gasket? Does anyone have a better suggestion?
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Not that big of a deal.
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I am not a mechanic, just mechanically inclined. I have been instructed by my father when i was young. I know a some if the formalities. this car got me stumped but how am I suppose to brace the engine?
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You don't need to. Just loosen the front engine mount a bit and you can get in there.
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Huh? I honestly removed the 3 bolts off my turbo, and dropped the pan. And the capri doesn't even HAVE a front engine mount. It has a Left, and a few rear mounts. You sure you talking about the same thing?
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Uh, yes we do. We have 3 "motor" mounts - one on the passenger side, one on the very front of the transmission into the subframe, and then one under the transmission under the differential.
And where are you hearing about this 10 vs 13 bolt thing??
Annie: To be honest, I've only ever removed the oil pan when the engine was not in the car, it looks like a tough job. Its so easy to pull these motors, after a while i didnt bother trying to do things in-car
You can ubolt the subframe in the front, and it will allow some flex in it that might give you enough room.
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In my 1991 shop manual, vs the oil pan on my car. My shop manual lists 10 or so bolts, but I had to remove a few more then that to drop the pan.
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I've unbolted as instructed... But still doesn't give enough room. I will take pictures
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I realize this is an old post, but it appears to be the only one directly addressing removal of the oil pan in-car, so I think it should be resurrected. As in my usual boneheaded mechanical way, I researched this in order to do the job right last night, but came up short. I looked in the FSM and checked out the procedure not noticing that it is basically referencing a motor on the bench, not in-car. When I later (after removing the bolts and getting the pan to drop 1/2") searched the forum for help, I found this to be the best post.
I loosened the two bolts that hold the front engine mount to the crossmember and using a wood block and my floor Jack on the nuts half-started on the threads to try to raise the bolts through the holes enough to raise the drivetrain a little, but no-go. Looks like I'm going to have to take the passenger side engine mount off and rent a engine crane to lift the drivetrain about an inch to improve the clearance enough to change the oil pan gasket.
I'll try to post pics once I get this done right so others know the best way. I would consider lowering the crossmember a little, but I wonder if that is a good idea - does it mess with front end alignment? I also need a way to lift the drivetrain off of it anyway, so the passenger side motor mount looks most promising since either way seems to involve a crane.
Any advice appreciated (except the pull the engine - not an option this week).
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you may be able to put a board across the fenders/frame and use a ratchet strap to pull the engine/trans upward (w/ assist from jack, maybe?) to pull the subframe. I installed a transmission into my 95 Grand Prix using this method while the subframe (much larger) was dropped.
Other than that I don't have much to offer, sorry :(
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I got it. Another how to post I would like to make. I'll post pix from my workstation later, but the solution in involved using a fender mounted hoist that didn't have enough space to lift high enough and removing the bolts from the right side and front engine mount bolts, then loosening the two front crossmember bolts that go into the core support. Still wasn't enough until I got the floor jack and a 4x4 block to jack on the A/C compressor mount casting.
Oh, if you are ever doing one of these, buy your own tube of RTV to go along with the two tiny tubes provided inthe Fel-pro set.
Pix tomorrow maybe