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[greywolf27030]

A manual like you're suggesting would be great. It seems every new owner has the same questions, and their cars have the same recurring problems.

The IAC is usually diagnosed by a high idle all the time. It should default to being open all time. The coolant flowing thru it warms a special wax element to close it up and reduce the idle when warm. The electrical connection increases the idle when the A/C is switched on. I wonder if it is possible for it to fail closed. That would give the low idle you're getting. It's going to need a higher idle in this cold weather to keep it going. Sorry I can't help you more.

Good luck with it and merry Christmas.

[JJ]

This is great info for those of us who've never seen the internals of a B engine and I applaud you for the effort required to take and post the pics.

no doubt. i have a parts car that's scrapped because rust got a lot of underneath and shop wanted over $1500 to run new metal brake lines.. frame rail was bad shape too.. but killer is the little 3 in coolant hose near distributor split, caused overheating and although car was stopped almost instantly, damage was done and lost compression in a few cyls. i think really it just needs a new head gasket.. but i don't really have the time or space to remove engine and do what he's doing, although I would love to

[EShepherd]

This is great info for those of us who've never seen the internals of a B engine and I applaud you for the effort required to take and post the pics.

no doubt. i have a parts car that's scrapped because rust got a lot of underneath and shop wanted over $1500 to run new metal brake lines.. frame rail was bad shape too.. but killer is the little 3 in coolant hose near distributor split, caused overheating and although car was stopped almost instantly, damage was done and lost compression in a few cyls. i think really it just needs a new head gasket.. but i don't really have the time or space to remove engine and do what he's doing, although I would love to

You can totally pull the head off and replace the gasket without removing the engine from the car. You'll need to put a jack stand under the oil pan in order to support the engine (to enable you to remove the mount that blocks your access to the timing cover)  and you'll probably want to pull off the FR wheel to make getting all the accessory drive stuff off. The head itself can be removed fully assembled, so that makes life much easier. You won't be able to get the deck surface machined, but there are plenty of home brew methods to clean a cast iron head gasket sealing surface at home. It really isn't too terribly much work, provided there's nothing in the bottom end that requires machining. But you won't know that until you get the head off and check.

[JJ]

thanks for the info. but if I do anything with the engine i'll pull it all out and put on a stand. it's currently a 'fixable spare' until i run out of room or desire to keep the car sitting in the back yard... sadly no garage... so not really any room to do anything. and no room for a 3rd shed. the other two are full

[EShepherd]

So I have a giant order bookmarked on RockAuto, I'm just waiting for the weather forecast to look less cold (and my wife to look less at the bank account >.<) before I press the order button. But here's the goodies I plan on getting put on the car as soon as possible. Once the salt is gone, I've been dying to drive this thing for two years. I think this should be all I need to have it be safe to drive on public roads:

Front & rear wheel bearings & seals
Front & rear brake pads & rotors
Front brake calipers & I'll see about getting the rears rebuilt
Fuel pump
Front & rear struts, mounts, bump stops, and bellows

That should be about it, at least that can be diagnosed as "shitty" with a visual inspection. I've replaced a whole bunch of the front suspension already due to deteriorated rubber bushings. The rear I was going to leave be until I can drive it and feel it, since I suspect the rear end of a 2000 pound fwd car could probably be made out of mashed potato and it wouldn't really matter. I think I might need inner tie rods, but I'd like to leave the OEM ones alone until I can drive it. I'm pretty sure I also have a reman starter and new fuel pressure regulator sitting in the car that were never installed.

Hopefully I'll have updates soon

[greywolf27030]

Wow.......inspiring

[EShepherd]

Wow.......inspiring

I'm gonna HAVE to remember your discount code this time. I generally remember it a day or two after I place my order, which sucks but isn't usually more than a few dollars. Definitely going to be significantly more important this time, so thanks in advance for your continued efforts to save us all some monies.

https://imgur.com/gallery/5fw1VrT
That's a link to imgur, since they changed it and I can't find a new image host that'll let me put thumbnails on forums. In there is my current planned order. If anyone wants to take the time to look through it and warn me if I'm about to make a mistake, or if I'm missing something obvious, I'd appreciate it.

Also, and perhaps this is just a RockAuto issue and not a global supply issue, but there appears to be an alarming lack of rear brake rotors available for our cars. Am I worrying for nothing, or is this a thing that everyone already knows about? Should I maybe panic buy several sets of rear rotors incase they become totally unavailable?

Edit- Fixed the wrong # of rear outer wheel bearings. Wanted to add that my big worry with the rear rotors is that I'm pretty sure they also function as the hub on the Capri. Having no replacement for two major wear items on the back end doesn't feel good. I did find a listing on Ebay for (AC Delco 58846FN), which seems like OEM for our car. But there are only 6 left, and they are non-coated.

[greywolf27030]

Consider yourself lucky that there are rear struts, front mounts available right now. You might add the rear bearing nuts, there is a right and left hand thread.

[EShepherd]

Consider yourself lucky that there are rear struts, front mounts available right now. You might add the rear bearing nuts, there is a right and left hand thread.

I know I've been checking every few weeks for a very long time. Gonna have to jump on these while I have the chance. They do pop up on ebay fairly often still, too.

Good call on the rear axle nuts, thanks

[EShepherd]

I ordered all the parts, minus the front calipers. Stuff is coming on like six trucks, next Tuesday & next Thursday. I even remembered to grab the rear axle nuts!

Once the weather gets nice, I'm going to yank all the strut assemblies off. I'll take those to work with me once the parts show up, along with the rear rotors & wheel bearings. I have the tools there to press the bearings & studs in, as well as remove the springs from the old struts and put them on the new ones. I'l get a set of H&R springs eventually...I spent enough money for one day though.

I plan to pull the front knuckles off this weekend too. That way, I can have everything ready to go whenever Rocketman has a chance to teach me his secrets.

[greywolf27030]

https://imgur.com/a/FCQy2pk

Hopefully that will work.

[EShepherd]

https://imgur.com/a/FCQy2pk

Hopefully that will work.

That definitely looks like a set of coilovers for a Capri, but who makes them and where in the world did you find them? Beautiful

[Rocketman]

That's from the group buy on the Facebook page, IIRC

[greywolf27030]

I thought I had mentioned the coilovers before. A member of the 1991-1994 Mercury Capri Owners Group on FB is having, I believe, 20 sets custom made. Last I heard there were a couple of sets available.

[EShepherd]

I thought I had mentioned the coilovers before. A member of the 1991-1994 Mercury Capri Owners Group on FB is having, I believe, 20 sets custom made. Last I heard there were a couple of sets available.

Oh, damnit. Guess I'll put this on my list of reason to have a Facebook.