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[kellsonm]

Hey everyone, I'm trying to install a new aftermarket radio into my '94 (which already has an aftermarket radio from the previous owner). I can't see any obvious way to remove it, it feels very sturdy. Can anyone help?

[Pappy T]

Looks like that hairy knee cap would be in the way, remove that first ! I would google the radio info and see what the install procedure was and go from there...

[chrispoe]

On most aftermarket radios, the outer plastic trim piece around the edge of the radio just pulls off. Once you have the trim removed you’ll probably see slots on each side of the stereo. Then I generally just use a pair of small screw drivers or some butter knives and stick them in each slot to release the holding clamps. The stereo should just pull out then.

[mitch1204]

Yep, Chris is correct. The outside 1/4" or so is a trim piece. Pop that off to have access to the mount chassis. Look in your new stereo box and you'll find two keys to remove a stereo. Its pretty much standard on DIN stereos. You can look at the new stereo directions for an illustration. The keys slide in on each side of the stereo. They push away a lock clip on the chassis where you can slide the unit out.

If with any luck you should be able to reuse the old chassis. Slide the old unit out and the new unit in.

Like Chris said if you don't have the keys a couple screwdrivers or butter knives will suffice. It might bend the chassis some but nothing that can't be fixed.

Look at your new unit and how it mounts for a better idea.

Note, they make adapter harnesses for any car/stereo now. There is no need to cut wires unless someone already disposed of the factory connector.

[kellsonm]

Thanks a lot! Got the old stereo out no problem. Should've known. Now I have a new issue. I wired everything up (using butt connectors, just like I've done for all the stereos I've installed in the past) but the receiver isn't turning on at all. I redid the wiring, and used a multimeter on the ignition and ground wires, and it shows that the wires ARE getting power. Any ideas of what I should check for now? I bought this receiver brand new, it's a Kenwood.

[StreetDoc]

There are 2 power wires on most if not all aftermarket radios. One for battery and one for ignition. You may want to check and see that both are getting power. If so, maybe as simple as a poor connection inside the connector. If it's not one of those, I'm at a loss.  Good Luck!

[kellsonm]

Yellow power wire reads 0 Volts…
Guess I'll take it to an electrician?

[chrispoe]

If you have 0V on the yellow wire, check the fuses under the dash. I think it's a 15 amp for the audio.

[kellsonm]

The Audio fuse looks fine, I swapped in a new fuse to confirm that that's not the problem.

[mitch1204]

I have a Kenwood. I'll pull it out today and see what I can see. Spaghetti detective, lol. One hot is battery hot and the other is ignition hot. It should be two separate fuses. We just have to find the right one.

[chrispoe]

Does the manual headlight lift switch in the center console work?
If that switch isn’t working too, then you need to check the HLM fuse in the engine bay. 
If the switch does work, then check the wires coming out the bottom of the HLM fuse in the engine bay. There should be a white/green wire(Headlight lifts) and a yellow wire (Audio) coming from that fuse.

[kellsonm]

This wire? It's next to two other wires, on the passenger side of the fuse box. How do I check it? Cut it and use the multimeter? Ignition on or off?
What is the fix if there's no power?
Thanks for all the help!

[chrispoe]

Did you pull the 20A HLM fuse and ohm it out to see if it’s good?
The output of the HLM fuse provides power to the headlight lift motors and to the radio. That yellow wire that you’re pointing to in your pic is the same exact yellow wire that goes to the radio.  If the HLM fuse is good and the wire is still securely attached to the fuse block, you should get 12V that’s hot all the time at your radio.

[mitch1204]

If it's hot all the time then that would just be the stereo memory and clock. It wouldn't interfere with the stereo powering up and playing unless you have the B+ and ignition hot wired backwards. The ignition hot and ground wire should be your immediate concern. You are better off using a chassis ground which helps reduce interference from the distributor. Make sure you are dealing with a good ground.
No need to cut wires to test. If you can't test at a connector your meter probe is pointed. That is so you can poke through the wire insulation with minimal damage.

[mitch1204]

According to the wiring diagrams the radio is fed off the 80 amp Main fuse under the hood (block diagram shows different, 30 amp Head fuse), regardless it's still the yellow wire and fuse #12 which is a blue 15 amp fuse under the dash for your ignition hot which is your main concern. Black wire is ground.

Wiring is as follows

Yellow/black stripe.... ignition hot... fuse 12
Yellow.... battery hot (stereo memory and clock)
Black... ground

Blue/red...blue/Yellow... right front and rear speaker
Blue/white... Blue... left front and rear speaker.

If the factory connector is still there from left to right starting with the blue/Yellow wire... first two pins RF speaker, next two pins LF speaker, next two pins RR speaker and last two pins LR speaker.