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[Rocketman]

Yeah the 4 bolts in a square pattern with the pin are the large nose crank. 4 in a rectangle, with a notch in the center bore is a small nose.

Not sure on the part number for the plug wire set. I've seen some sets come with six wires, it comes with two different coil leads as if the kit were sold for two slightly different engines, just use the one that fits.

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I couldnt think of anything a 6th wire would be for lol.. And my b6 wires wont swap i forgot the b6t wires are more like the bp and fs dohc heads/ wire sets that go down into the valve cover.

Aaanyway, i think this engine has been worked on recently.

1) The exhaust studs had antiseize on the head side of the studs.
2) The exhaust manifold was double gasketed, two multi layer steel gasket in there.
3) The intake manifold gasket came right off, didnt crumble of leave any trace on either side.
4) The block had dirt grease and oil all over it, but the head was pretty much clean outside.
5) The valve cover did NOT want to come off. Someone had used some type of sealant to ensure it did not leak, and it didnt.
6) ........ This is way too clean for a 160k engine...

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Now I'm wondering what the extent of the work was, and why someone would scrap a car they just worked on.... I was going to try to do the valve stem seals and i forgot about the head casting for the bucket lifters interfering with spring access. I dont feel like spending the time fabing a jig to compress the springs with the head on the block, and with the recent findings im going to assume someone did a head gasket job, shaved bare minimum, got a valve job, replaced the stem seals, installed a new turbo and I think the best course of action is to replace the front and rear main seals and stick it in the car......

What would you do?


Also, the valve cover has been welded on the front. Does that ring any bells here? You guys know anybody who has welded a valve cover that might have scrapped a capri?

[Chicken]

It may have had work. Guessing doesn't assure that though.

I would take the head to a machine shop and have them check the flatness. My experience is that the Capri warps heads more than other B6 cars, and the Turbo Capris lead those numbers. The shop can do a pressure check also if you want them to. In the end its way more affordable to have them do that work quickly and with expertise.   <--- Assuming its a good shop.

The turbo motor specifies for a double gasket and the intakes often pop off perfectly.  Even if the work was actually done already, its worth checking that head whie its off.  Plenty of people may decide to get a gasket done without so much as refacing the head as a budget short term decision. Capri owners are often VERY budget minded.

And how does that gasket look?

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I only pulled the valve cover in hopes of replacing stem seals. I've rebuilt a couple b series, one BP and a coulple b3's, and worked on b6's/b6me's, and I know if i pull the head I'll end up dumping another $400 into this engine, which isnt worth it until I find out if the car will actually be as fast as people claim they are.

Thanks for the heads up about the double gasketed exhaust, I know theyre MLS but i didnt know they need two mls gaskets lol..

B3's warp easily too, most people just keep driving with a blown head gasket and don't ever know a difference, b3's are way underpowered anyway! I did a b3-b3 engine swap thursday for a guy, the coolant was coal black and I drained 5 qts of what looked like watery crude oil from the old engine.(the manual says they hold 3.5 from completely MT, i can do two cars with a single 5qt jug!!) Afterward I told him he needed a new suspension and he looked at me like i was crazy! He messaged me yesterday saying I was right, the new engine has way more power and throws the car around so much worse than the old one could its dangerous!  I wouldn't put a head back on without a mill job, but I'm not above using some 400 grit on a flywheel/PP/brake drums rotors and pads.

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Alright so heres a turbo noob question you guys can probably answer for me.

Do I really need a boost gauge?

Its going to be a totally stock motor, wiring harness ecu and all from a capri. I'm sure I would end up installing one, along with my NIB wideband on the shelf, but is it pertinent just to make the engine run and the car driveable?  Do stock capri's have boost gauges?

Are there any gauges that are absolutely aside from the basic coolant temp, fuel, and oil pressure gauges?

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I got everything off, put in a new front main seal..



new camshaft seals, pretty sure the ones that came out were fine, they looked like they were new, no dirt on them or anything.


put the timing belt back on, the water pump looks new, the timing belt idler pulley and tensioner pulley look and feel brand new, so I'm not gonna even replace the water pump...


I chopped up the rear timing belt cover, and removed the capri engine mount bracket from the block. I'm not going to have any timing belt covers on this engine at all, not even the lower. I'll trim the lower one so I can stick a single 10mm bolt in it to hold it in place when I need to set timing, other than that I don't need it.


The timing belt looks like it's brand new, no wear marks or dryrotting at all. I'm just gonna use new intake/exhaust gaskets, new valve cover/gasket, new plugs wires and cap/rotor button and stick it in the car now.

[Rocketman]

The B6D/T heads seem to warp a lot due to folks overheating & running way past the point of no return. I'm going to blame a lot of that on the crappy belt design. I see far more nonturbo engines like this for whatever reason.

Do you *need* a boost gauge? No. Should you have one? yes, you should. You're doing a engine swap, you should know what's going on with it. Yes the XR2 came with a gauge stock, but it wasn't super accurate.
SunPro sells a boost gauge, its like $25 0-20psi. Cheap, easy install, works well

As for the engine work, someone was in there, but the head isn't "too" clean for 160k. I'm not aware of any double gasket requirements, where would I find that? The stock gasket has 4-5 layers as it is

You need a jig like this to do valvestem seals

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Yea thats a nice jig you got there.

Last time i had to take apart a dohc head I had the head off and was able to use the wrap around spring compressor. I ended up cutting sides out of a big spark plug socket and welded a washer to the bottom, worked pretty good. I wish I had the time to make up a jig even tho I'm not going to do the stem seals now. Would be really handy to have around in the future.


One of the reasons I believe the head has already been worked over is because the valve cover gasket was sealed with sealant, someone didnt want it leaking ever again. If you had seen the block and how dirty it was all the way around except where parts prevented it you would have noticed it was a valve cover leak too. If it was the head gasket leaking that much oil it would only have been in certain areas on the head, and possibly water/corrosion dripping down too. The outside of the head itself was clean, so somebody definitely had the head off and gave it a good cleaning, for now im gonna assume the head has been given the full treatment within the last 20k miles or so because everything is pointing in that direction. The guy said it was a running engine so its gonna be in the car as soon as i can get the b6 out.

Im sure I'll get around to installing a boost gauge within a week or two. I also have an electronic boost controller, PLX wideband, and a couple other goodies that might end up in this car shortly if the car is fast enough.

[Rocketman]

The valve covers are supposed to be installed with sealant, at the corners. The gasket itself will not do all the sealing. So that sounds pretty normal to me. At this point I would imagine some cars having needed them done at least twice in their lifetime

I do see your point with the head being cleaner I won't disagree with you there

I still have my patterns for the valvespring compressor jig, if you're interested in one let me know

[Chicken]

If the cover is welded, someone concerned with cleanliness has been involved.  Just stuff the engine in and hold on.  Get the money and to do list together for next winter.  Never mind the seals for now.  No need for a gauge unless theres boost related issue. 

Gaskets = Its in the manual.  *Many of the kits have two or three. The kits can be confusing since they have parts for all model variants and no instructions. Older gaskets had the two spot welded together. The service parts were multi layer just like the original. There are also sets with a thicker gasket included, and then sometimes still have two stanless sheet ones. Last I saw, even Fram just plops two stainless gaskets in the box. I haven't heard of any ill effect from using just one on the turbo. I understand sometimes, thats what happens.

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"Just stuff the engine in and hold on."

Haha yeaa now we're talkin! I almost pulled the b6 out today after work. I hopped in the aspire to move it and was instantly reminded i needed to weld up a new flex pipe when it fired up heh..

So i played with about 14 tires trying to get a working setup on both cars so I can retire the winterforce treads for the season and fixed the aspire.

I get my intake and exhaust mani gaskets on wednesday, so I might end up pulling the engine tomorrow. I figure this way i can have the flywheel resurfaced (if it needs it) wednesday and have all the time i need to do whatever else. Was gonna try to do it all this weekend but now i gotta install an aluminum bed on a dodge ram and do some painting for another guy monday. Hate to say no to the smaller side jobs those guys pay really well.

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Got some stuff done today..

Pulled the b6, its gonna get a full treatment soon im gonna do new seals and gaskets and probably shave the head and a valve job, pull the pistons and clean out the ringlands. Engine runs great and it had 89k? When i bought it. Probably around 105/110 now. It'll be a back up/spare, mated to a 70k aspire 5 speed with a stage one spec clutch.


What do you guys think of this clutch/flywheel? It had a couple tiny blue spots but none of the lines in it when i put it on the b6. Is the disk glossy on the outside from slipping?

[Rocketman]

Oh. You're not doin the g-swap, huh.

The B6T isn't going to play nicely with the F clutch

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Lol I'm not doing it right away*.

I should, I know i really should, but I want to see it run before I put too much into it.

Its not even an f lol, still just an E!!! Haha... I can hear the case shattering already!

I figure the transmission and fab work will be a project for next month.