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[Heavensheros]

ok so my other capri is leaking coolant at the waterpump pulley. do i have to replace it or is it like a seal of some sort. if i must get a new one i need one !!! she is my daily driver for the winter and i need a car last and foremost how hard is it to replace on these guys. it looks like a tight squeeze.

[bryanknight]

you can get a water pump and timimg belt and the idler pullys on ebay pretty cheap together around you in auto parts its about 100 -150 for same parts  and you need to replace it  because the stuff you have to remove just to get to it its time consuming.. its not a hard job but not going to be quick either you have to losen both the other belts  remove the power steering pump not completely just the bolts holding it to the block it will come out of that hole just got to take your time, timing cover and the timing belt the motor mount and bracket if i remember i think one bolt that holds the bracket on is also connected to the alternator remove that bolt. remove the water pump pulley the lower radiator hose(becarefull and not mess it up its really hard to find one to replace it) Now you should be at the water pump bolts and ifyour going to change the timing belt which you should sence your that far remove both lower pulleys from the crank (the four bolts not the center one)  if you need more help let me know i just about can count the bolts in my head lol

[rcicustoms]

there is a small hole behind the pulley called a "weep hole" as the pump wears, the inner seal will wear and allow a small amount of coolant to "weep" out the hole...  
this is completely normal..
the bad thing is that when the "weep hole" starts to drip its an indicator to replace the waterpump....  
auto mfgrs do this, so that you take it in for service as soon as it starts to "weep" on the ground..  
that way its replaced before the pump actually fails and cuases engine damage....

unfortuneately the water pump is a non rebuildable wear part.. (well un rebuildable by anyone without a factory that remanufactures waterpumps) and will have to be replaced as a unit...

may i also recommend a set of timing belt pulleys. (one tension, and one idler) they both mount to the face of the pump to keep the T.B. tight.. if one were to fail it would cuase a timing belt failure... its just good sence to replace them....

[Surfnut]

According to Bryan's post - you have to remove both crankshaft pulleys.
He instructed to remove the 4 small 10mm-head bolts, not the 21mm center bolt.


After the 4 small bolts come off, do the crankshaft pulleys slide over the large 21mm center bolt?  How do you get the pulleys off?

Thanks,
Dave

[Rocketman]

Depends on if you have a large or small nose crank. I forget which the 21mm bolt is.


Either way the pullies just slide off. Might take a gentle tap to free them.
On the small nose, you'll be able to get the belt off once the pullies are off.
On the large nose, you'll have to remove the main crank bolt, and the hub it holds on. I made/make a tool to help with that, it's tough to remove without stabilizing the crankshaft.

The camshaft cogs don't need to removed to replace the belt or water pump, only need to remove them if you're doing camshaft seals

[Surfnut]

As always, thanks Rocketman.

Here's what I have:




It looks to me like I have to remove that main crank bolt.  I don't know how I'm going to get it off with the engine sitting precariously on a rolling plywood stand.   

Thank you.

[Rocketman]

Yep, you've got the large nose crank.

You're handy, make a tool to stabilize the crank while you remove the bolt. It comes out surprisingly easy when it's being held still.

You could also use the starter to assist, but it's not as safe, and won't help you re-tighten it.

Here's what my tool looks like:
(this one is for the short nose, but same idea)



Bolts in place of the crank pullies, and you can let it swing around till it hits something sturdy (alternator) or slip a pipe over it.

Impact gun will also work in most cases

[Surfnut]

Thank you Rocket!

I figure I'll do the water pump, thermostat and timing belt while I'm in here.  What else do you recommend I replace or tend to?
I assume both idler pulleys?

Do you know of a place online where I can find torque specs for all this stuff?

Thank you again for all your help.  I sure am glad you're around to help us with things like this.

Dave

[Rocketman]

Your engine is still out of the car right?

Might as well do camshaft seals & front main seal

Yes timing belt idlers

Valvecover gasket, if you do the cam seals. You'll be in there to stabilize the cams when re-torquing the cogs

[Surfnut]

Thank you Rocket!

[JJ]

hmm. I have the large nose crank too. so that means no changing stuff unless I remove that bolt? I don't have the ability to make a tool, so what are we to do?

I plan to do this same work on mine, in addition to the real problem. Hey, I got my car from the barn last week! where it sat for 2 years.  My engine is staying in the car.

I believe it just needs a head gasket. compression super low. Would a head gasket cause that?

JJ

[Rocketman]

You'll have to remove the bolt, yeah. Flyin Miata makes a tool, or I could probably dust off my patterns & make some more tools if you needed too.

Head gasket compression loss is usually between two cylinders, one or two usually read normal. If you tested your engine cold, it could read low. XR2's read on the low side to begin with since they're 'low compression' engines. What were your numbers? Consistent super low numbers could mean cam timing is off, too

Glad you're gonna get to workin on it. I wish I was closer I'd lend a hand & tools