TeamCapri
Tech, Repairs, Upgrades => Capri XR-2 89-94 => Topic started by: Heavensheros on March 12, 2010, 05:01:00 AM
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ok so at idle my air/fuel gauge maxes out on lean so its running SUPER lean. give it a little gas it will go to 14.7 and slowly work back up to lean.
When i drive it i hear a lot of air moving like a big leak but i don't see a big leak and the boost gauge will hit 5psi and jump to 0 repeatedly and i hear like the air box closing the flap. when you boost to 12+ MASSES of backfires and NO POWER and then she will idle hard. turn off and idle will return to normal.
My plugs on my stock capri are set at 1-2-3-4
Plugs on MY capri are set 1-3-2-4 and she will not turn over when set 1-2-3-4 my stock capri WILL turn over when set 1-3-2-4. MY capri will also turn over when set to 4-3-2-1 but will idle very rough.
I did the turn the #1 piston to compression stroke and set dizzy to #1 fire and beyond that for timing i dont know what to do. dizzy is set 3/4 back.
the exhaust is louder than usual but could that be from going from cat and glasspack to just glasspack.
if anyone could please help and have any information before i give up and take to a mechanic and say fix my mistake that would be greatly helped
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sounds like its out of time to me.
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the timing your using is wrong number one is on the passanger side so put plugs 1 2 3 4 on the motor and the fire on the dis its 1 3 4 2
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if want to read more in to it go to the 323gt/gtx and look down to firing order and you can see the cap and everything of joes and me talking about it for coco customs
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ok idk why i am so confused with this so please help ...
Facing windsheild looking at engine
1= near cam gears
2= right of that
3= right of that
4= Closest to Distributor
Distributor goes when facing the cam gears numbers read from left to right 4312 when do i put the corresponding numbers.
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Connect the terminals to their corresponding cylinders? they're numbered? firing order's got nothing to do with it...put 1 to 1... 2 to 2 ... etc.
Here's pic?
(http://www.werbatfik.com/img/capri/capri10.jpg)
it should look something like that...
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i did that put 1 to 1 2 to 2 3 to 3 and she doesnt turn over >.< bu she will turn over if i put 1 to 1 2 to 3 3 to 2 4 to 4 >.< WTF is going on with my car.
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An off topic question. Rocketman what kind ok bov is that on your motor? Is it a good choice for a bt6 ? hook up looks a lot easier than some of them I have been thinking of.Thanks,Rocky.
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have you had your dist out of the car ? i did this once not sure its your problem but you can put the dist in 180 out.. the only difference is the end that slides in to the cam, one side is a little bigger then the other if that piece gets bent or anything then it will go both ways.. i did not see this till i got the new dist from russ that the new dist would only go in one way but mine would go either way and it would run weird... look inside the dist make sure the bearings are still good like my old one had a lot or slot in it making it hard to start and so on..
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ok the dizzy was out of the car and i had the internals taken out maybe i have the wires mixed inside and maybe the dizzy in backwards ... is the vacuum line actuator suppose to be facing up or down ?
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Its supposed to be facing up like it is in the pic. The dizzy is keyed into the camshaft - the little metal bar is only supposed to fit into the cam one way. Did you force it in? I'm guessing you managed to fit that into the cam backwards. Take it out, try again - you'll see the bar and the slot in the cam are offset ever so slightly from the center.
Rocky - thats a cheap generic BOV I ran for a while on my first capri...they pretty much suck, there are *many* better choices out there. It works but it doesnt sound near as well as anything else, and I have my doubts as to how well it actually bypassed air.
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i will check it seemed to go in easy but could i have possibly crossed some wires inside the dizzy ? rocket do you have any pics of a dizzy that's 100% correct ? maybe the wires inside dizzy are crossed possibly
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Maybe I'm not sure - everything in there is pretty much cut to length. Why'd you take it apart?
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to get cleaned and painted
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RED......
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of course lawl !!! didnt think it would come to bite me in the ass this hard
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got the timing all sorted out! dizzy was on backwards all fixed ... now my AFR is kind of strange ...
Idle at 14.9 and when i get up to high boost she leans out to 15 sometimes and kind of bounces around like the narrowband what seems to be the problem ?
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Weak pump? Bad filter?
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dizzy was on backwards all fixed when you say that whats that mean backwards?? 180 out? something wrong inside?? or ??
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i had to take it out and spin the insert 180 degrees and it will idle between 15 and 13 but when i boost it will sometimes be lean sometimes rich at 11 or 12 ... does the wideband have to be hooked up to the car computer or is it my tps never had this problem till now
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o ok lol and i am not sure on the air/fuel thing i dont have that and have not messed with it but i do know and have had many problems with the tps i have replaced it twice now.. this one seems to be working good but i cant keep the car running long to find out lol
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You don't have narrowband emulation to the ECU???
Idle will bounce around between rich and lean slowly. The gauge will be sluggish upon startup as the sensor and engine warms up.
Cruising around the AFR will jump back and forth rich/lean sometimes very rapidly.
Under throttle it should be richish...the more throttle/boost the more rich it should be, never above 13 though
It bounces back and forth because the ECU can't read exact AFR with a narrowband, so it reads rich, sends lean fuel, sees lean, sends rich fuel, over and over. Cruising AFR's are not critical. Its called closed-loop mode where it listens to the 02 sensor for feedback
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as of right now and i might be wrong but in the stock bung on the exhaust manifold is the stock 02 narrow band sensor hooked up to the ecu and the wide band is on the bung on the vj-20 dump pipe with 2 open wires not connected to anything a blue wire and a white wire. i will read 11 afr in first gear under fool boost and in second gear she leans out to 15 + and will sometimes max out at 17.9 let off the throttle and it will be 15 afr. rinse repeat WOT full boost first gear 11.3 AFR second gear lean out and lose power and exhaust will sound different.
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Check your manual. You'll see a lot better gas mileage and overall performance if you use the wideband to feed the ECU a signal. One of those wires will be narrowband emulation to hook into the ECU.
Did you mess with the TPS at all?
Did you set your timing with the light? Are you knocking w/ the controller pulling timing/fuel?
turn down the boost, what happens? Avoid running full boost with AFR's like that until the issue is sorted, its very dangerous for the engine.
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take notes everyone....
perform one mod at a time.... :cool:
I am thinking there is something not set up correctly.
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i do have the boost down and i will see which one is narrowband emulation.
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fixed the wideband to run narrowband emulation to the car but now she still leans out on idle and boost when its warmed up give it full throttle and it will get rich and start to lean out again. This car is really starting to get under my nails... sometimes it will run perfect and sometimes it will run super lean and idle rough... when the car starts cold she runs good and idles good.... warms up and idles rough and leans out alot ... give it wot and it will get rich then lean out again. >.<
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rewire fuel pump
run it off the battery on a relay, the pump will get about 2-3 more volts and that will help you i think.
do you have a upgraded fuel pump?
read this same theory and can be used exactly the same. eclipse rewire kit is like 20 bucks for all you need and tell u what wire to put where on the relay. it helped my car a lot at boost
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ok i will do that !! that might help me out fuel pump might not be getting alot of power the batter moved to trunk possibly
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Are all your temp sensors hooked up?
Did you mess it up when you painted the manifold...are the contacts painted over?
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all temp sensors are hooked up and i took the sensors out when i painted ... the only sensor that i took out was the boost gauge.
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try re-connecting it for shits n giggles.
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ok and i am going to also rewire fuel pump and reconnect that ... dont think it is the problem because it will run lean when idle at 500 if all this is a fail then i am going to take to auto mechanic and say im leaning out on boost fix it ... >.< whats the most simplistic way to rewire the fuel pump ?
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josh...it is supposed to run lean at idle...
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well it runs lean all the time and wont idle right like its TO lean at idle its like shes going to stall and idles at 500
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Think we may have figured it out... busted FPR solenoid.
Did you test it? Lol stop swapping carpets, they won't make the car run better
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taking the car to a mechanic ... it runs nice and rush under boost but idles for shit and give it a tiny bit of throttle leans out and backfires up the wazoo and runs like shit have to give it WOT for it to run good, get to a stop sign and it idles for shit >.< the car is a demon >.<
i think its the new exhaust but when i go WOT and get to about 4k RPM exhaust makes a louder ricie tone
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yeah josh dont give in man!! lol i have had many more problems with my car then most on the site lol i have never took it to someone else (http://smile.gif)
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you need to check your timing man...
aint no mechanic gunna be able to fix your cars...especially modded, without costing big bucks
step back, take a deep breath, start from the basics, check everything
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Josh -
If you've got the time (and especially if you don't have the cash), it's always better to do it yourself. There is a wealth of advice here that you can tap, so go for it. If you're getting frustrated, take a breather and think about it for a while; don't just keep smackin' it.
Now, if you have the cash and you know someone you can trust, that can work also. There are no absolutes here. You do what you can based on your ability and $. That may or may not mean that you go to someone else, but you start by going back over what you did and systematically eliminate the most obvious first. Because the last thing you want to do is pay somebody to do something you know you can do yourself.
Thats my $0.02
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where can i get a timing light to check the timing and would the timing go bad just when the car warms up ? this only happens after it has been running for a few minutes. could this be the TPS that has been removed and put back on and i think it is on right but i am not sure.
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Agreed, This Talon i picked up is a hot mess....
I have it stripped down right now. I found so many chaffed wires and one that were cut its not funny. I am gonna start putting back together now that i figured it all out...cost to me free....if i taken it somewhere...I need a second job..Just keep up with it and swap out parts...
Main reason i bought the XR2 parts car..just in case i need something i got it
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could there also be a problem with the IAC ?
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checked all vac lines ... noticed a little bit that alot of air is going into my cone filter but i tried the best i can without a timing light i moved the TPS a little bit and the dizzy a little bit and idle seems to have gotten control of itself now at 900. the car runs better now for the most part 1st gear mostly perfect under full throttle and just TINY throttle sometimes will have no boost and then jump up real quick. 2nd gear and 3rd gear you give her good throttle and the car runs good everything is normal, but if your giving small throttle as the rpms and boost build slowly the car runs 18+ lean and sputter spatters with small backfires and no power give more throttle the car richens up and drives good. ill keep the info coming to help out everyone with diagnosing this problem
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I think your worrying about the idle AF ratio too much. If the car is idling good everything is fine. You need to make sure that under throttle is when your not too lean.It sound like you are there now.
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yes but it idles rough again and will lean out when i give it little throttle and start to sputter and i will have no power at all ... the car is not running right. sometimes it will idle bad and then rpms will jump a little and idle fine. give little throttle and it leans out way bad and does not run good.
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some more info ....
idles fine ... give it gas and let go it will idle bad at 700 wait a few moments the rpms will jump to 1100 and calm at 900 and idle good again.
car warms up.
when driving sometimes it will run good and sometimes it will sputter and have no power boost will slowly creep up when about 5 it will get fuel and jump up and run good or if i give it full throttle it will get fuel and run good. i cant see it being a timing issue because it will do it sometimes.
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I was having a similar problem. At part throttle it would sputter and run like shit. Put it to the floor it would run like a mother. Found out it had to be a fuel problem by hooking a propane can to it through the capped bleed on the intake and turning it on when it sputtered. Check the relay and pump. Mine was the relay.
Intermittent Fuel pump problem.
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B12 Chemtool.....
new plugs and wires as well....
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ok i will look into the fuel system a little more
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where is the fuel pump relay ?
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Under the ECU
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thank you i put b12 chemtool into the gas today still isnt running good ... idle bad then wait a few idle jumps up and sits down and idles good going to check the relay maybe it has bad connection or something.
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also since a friend will be doing it as well we are both also going to do a total seafoam on his car and i will be doing it to mine as well... couldnt hurt
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the problems are fixed .... bad TB gasket ...
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gasket was super thin and wet on the bottom where coolant goes through ....
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You haven't done a tb coolant bypass????