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[woz]

I have a 91 Capri (non-turbo) California emissions with 98k miles.  Last December I was driving and the car just died.  Turned the key but the car would not start.  It tries to but it won’t catch.  I had it towed and my mechanic replaced the distributor with one from Rock Auto as well as the ECM. 
 
A couple of months later and the car died again.  Tried another distributor from Rock Auto, car ran for the mechanic for a week or so then died on him as well.  Tried a 3rd distributor (also from Rock Auto) and it the car won’t start.  My mechanic tells me that it has no spark and no injector pulse. 
 
Any assistance as to what we can do is really appreciated.  We are at our wits end and feel we are just spinning our wheels.  Thanks.

[Rocketman]

You won't get injector pulse without spark, the ECU relies on the distributor for timing fuel injection events.

I've heard people have crappy luck with parts-stores & other remanufactured distributors.

When the distributor fails, it's a small component inside called the ignitor module that fails - replacing the whole distributor is quite costly. These ignitors can be had for $35-80 depending on where you look.

What kind of voltage is the alternator putting out? Battery good? It seems as if your car is frying the sensitive bits inside the distributor.

[woz]

I'm told by my mechanic that the charging system is 13.7 and the battery is good.  Any more suggestions are most appreciated.  We are getting frustrated.

[Chicken]

There should be a "Sticky" about this matter.

[blueamber]

I tried to get my 91 bosch alternator rebuilt 3 times, 3 regulators, each acted differently, all Chinese, none acted right, I put in a Mitsubishi I had from a parts car, works fine.

If new ignitors keep dying, try finding a used one out of a junk yard, maybe an original part will work better.  Sometimes used, like an alternator, is better than new...Chris

[Chicken]

Sometimes the modules seem to come out of the box not working, And the same ones are used in some rebuilt distributors (which of course also dont work). I've seen new in the box units available for less than $10 . Didn't choose to try those. They may work perfectly. Considering the parts have been used in near a million cars for thirty years, by now making one is child's play to manufacterers.

I have a couple originals around.

[woz]

Chicken,

Did you receive the PM I sent you? 

Thanks.

[woz]

Chicken, please see the email I sent you.  Hoping to get this resolved as we just can't get this car running. Thanks.

[woz]

Will someone please help me.  I don't know what to tell the mechanic who has had two other "experts" look at the car and no one can figure out what to do.  I really could use some assistance.  Happy to put you in contact with my mechanic if easier than typing out a response, but we just can't get this car to run.  It was such a great car until this all started.  Thanks.

[blueamber]

If the standard tests for reasons of no-spark don't help, it's time to think outside the box.  This is NOT a new car.  It has had MANY years to get corrosion into grounds, connectors, wires, you name it.  Repetitive failure of the ignitor until the car won't run at all indicates something has failed (wire, another component, ).

This forum cannot replace a competent mechanic.  It can offer ideas on common failure modes, but the mechanic HAS to do what he does, and if he cannot, find another mechanic...Chris

[Rocketman]

This forum cannot replace a competent mechanic.  It can offer ideas on common failure modes, but the mechanic HAS to do what he does, and if he cannot, find another mechanic...Chris

These words are golden. Bravo sir, I could not have said it better myself.