Tech, Repairs, Upgrades > Capri XR-2 89-94

External Head Gasket leak (I think)

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pilotlars:
I just discovered on my 1.6 NA that the lower timing belt covers must be installed before the upper one. The car came to me with them damaged from the timing belt flapping around in there so I had to get new ones... I went to the mazda dealer because Ford was useless lol. If our engines are the same it's easier to remove the front-engine motor mount and the bracket it attaches too. Then I removed the power steering hoses so there's room to get your hands in there. i thought it would take a little while to do this but it took all afternoon into the evening. The intake and exhaust sprockets are labled with I and E although they're interchangeable. There are notches at TDC for each one and they line up with bumps in the metal plate behind them. That's not a problem if your belt didn't rip of course... oh and the crankshaft pulleys and sprocket also have marks on them. But a chopstick or other skinny soft object should work great if eveyrthing is still connected properly.

rls120:
Finally got around to working on this thing again today. . . . .and found out several interesting things!

1.  The head gasket had failed between a coolant passage and the edge of the block.  The 'channel' in the gasket was also moving back towards the adjacent combustion chamber.  Probably happened when the car overheated one night after the fan belt broke. . . . .and my wife drove it 18 miles home!  This happened about 3-4 months before we noticed the coolant leak.  (My fault for not checking the condition of the fan belts before putting the car into service)

2.   The inner fender is RIGHT in the way of getting to the lower timing belt cover, adjusters, etc.  (at least it appears that way to me.  I can tell the belt has been replaced (car has 170,000 miles on it, and the belt looks like new, and the upper cover has a groove where a flapping belt tore it up some time ago).  I marked everything and carefully pried the belt off of the cam gears, and hope to carefully pry it back on when its time to reassemble (waiting on new heater hoses now).  Has anyone else successfully pulled that off?

3.  Could someone with a 1991 XR2 possible take a few pictures of vacuum hose routing and post them?  I've got idle problems, and I suspect that some of those hoses (especially the half dozen or so going to the very top of the throttle plenum) may have been misrouted from the get go.

Thanks, everyone for all of your help and comments.  Rocketman was right:  he said in a different thread that head removal is 'very invasive' on these cars.  I agree!

pilotlars:
XR2s have fan belts??? There is a splash shield under the metal part of the fender that comes off to expose the crankshaft pulley. The timing belt covers can be removed after the accessory belts and pulleys are removed. 10mm Wrenches are necessary for the water pump pulley due to lack of space. I find removeing the front engine mount and bracket helps in providing access. I even removed the PS hoses because they were in the way.

Rocketman:
To number 2: There's a little tool that you sticks in between the cam gears to lock them into position, so you don't lose position with them. You can make one if you're handy, Ford makes one, I've also seen a 3D-printable version. The force of the valvesprings will likely spoil your position without it.

Did you loosen the T-belt tensioner before prying the belt off? If not that is pretty stressful on the belt

Gas:

--- Quote ---To number 2: There's a little tool that you sticks in between the cam gears to lock them into position, so you don't lose position with them. You can make one if you're handy
--- End quote ---

When I did the timing belt on mine, I couldn't see the use in buying a tool for how rarely I would use it, so just made due with what I had in the toolbox. I used a wrench on each cam with the handles overlapping, and a vise grip connecting them together. It worked surprisingly well.

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