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[mr_gr1mm]

Some backstory:
My Capri has been having some issues with the power steering pump - sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Most of the time it seems to kind of be working to the point where it's difficult to tell if it's fully engaged (I am very new to cars so it's at least hard for me to tell). It has AC as well and that has never seemed to work.

Fast forward to today:
I was driving my capri when all of a sudden the power steering kicks in full force (in my head I'm thinking: oh yeah definitely need to replace the pump cause it's buttery smooth now). For whatever reason when this happened the belt started squealing like crazy - which seems backwards cause obviously now the power steering pump is running normal. Suddenly I hear a loud snap and the battery light kicks on: panic ensues cause I realize that I've lost both of my belts. I now have no power steering, no alternator, and no engine cooling. I was forced to drive home about 3 miles to my house and now I'm freaking out because:

a) I can't drive my capri
b) I have no idea what needs to be fixed (do I replace the power steering pump? I have no idea how to manually tension a belt - I also don't have the tools)
c) Did I fuck up my engine? The radiator was literally boiling when I pulled into my driveway

I'm strapped for cash so I cannot afford to do work right now, but when I get extra funds I'm thinking what I want to do is just completely delete the AC system, replace the power steering pump and get some new belts.

What do you guys think? I have no idea how to delete an AC system but it's something I've been wanting to do on this car and this is a perfect reason to do it - AC is pointless and it's just putting extra strain on the drive belt. Any help/insight you guys have would be appreciated... I'm still very new to working on cars.

[greywolf27030]

Hello grimm, welcome to the community. Probably the easiest way to find out if you've warped something is replace the belt and see how it runs. When you replace the alt/wp belt, get a Gates 9360 or equivalent rather than the one it calls for. Incorrect belt pulley on aftermarket alternators is a common problem and does exactly what you experienced. There is an A/C delete belt available as this is a common modification. That would be a Dayco 5040350DR or equivalent. Get familiar with Rockauto.com, it is an excellent source of parts at a reasonable price. The Capri is based on a Mazda 323GT (not GTX) so a lot of Mazda parts can be used to repair them. Good luck.

[mr_gr1mm]

Greywolf,

Thank you so much for the part numbers and suggestions - sometimes I feel extremely lost trying to learn as I go, so it really helps to have some validation and explicit parts to seek out. I was looking at the AC & PS today and was worried that I wouldn't be able to get a belt around just the power steering without having the back of the belt rubbing against the AC drum - but knowing that this is a common mod eases my mind. My only question is: does the base capri have an idle pulley and/or tensioner pulley? Your wording of "incorrect belt pulley" suggests that there is. I've looked at the tech manual and it shows an idle pulley where the power steering pump should be, and then on a subsequent page shows the power steering pump where the idle pulley was in the previous diagram? It's confusing since I cannot see any idle pulley in the engine bay with my own eyes, so I was confused as to whether perhaps the idle pulley only exists on models without any power steering.. but I'm not sure that was even an option on this car.

Edit: I just looked up those belts on RockAuto.com - looks like the Dayco 5040350DR is for AC only (w/o powersteering); and the Dayco 5040345DR is for Power Steering only (w/o AC). Are these the same, or should I go for the 345?

[Rocketman]

If you had an ancient belt that was slipping that may have been causing intermittent power steering

You don't need an idler pulley to replace the AC compressor, just run the non/ac belt. I don't recall if you have to remove the compressor to do that though

Just replace the belts and see how it goes. The alt/wp belt you will need a prybar between the alt and the head to apply tension, don't pry on the fragile parts of the alt
The ac/ps belt, the whole ps pump is part of the tensioner. Best to spray down the tensioner with some penetrating fluid beforehand (PB blaster or similar)

[mr_gr1mm]

Update on this: I managed to replace both belts and delete my ac compressor! The car seems to be running great despite being overheated for 3 miles of driving, it idles smoothly and there are no obvious misfires, etc. The only issue is that either the alternator or water pump is screaming now. I did a test with and without the alt/wp belt and confirmed that it does not happen without the belt installed. I made sure it's tensioned properly, and it is not a squeak but more like a high pitched whistle. It seems to have gotten much quieter as I drive the car more, but it's not 100% gone. Here is a video of when it was really loud https://imgur.com/a/wn8Jvrt

any ideas? I'm praying this is the alternator and not the water pump but it honestly sounds like it's coming from where the water pump is... otherwise the water pump seems to be doing its job (temperature is constant). I don't get how it would suddenly start making this noise when a broken belt is all that happened... is it possible I have the wrong belt on there? I used the gates 9360 as suggested.

[blueamber]

The reason belts break is either they are OLD and worn out, or a part being driven by the belt seizes or almost seizes.  Your belt breaking was the symptom for something wrong in the engine. I'd go back in and make sure the alternator, power steering pump, ac compressor and water pump pulleys all turn freely with no binding of any kind.  The part does not have to fail if the bearings are wearing out, so the car may run OK with squeaky bearings.

[mr_gr1mm]

Thanks for the speedy response. Yes I did verify that the water pump alternator and power steering pump all turn freely. There was a piece left over from the old belt which broke and it was severely cracked (I could see 3 deep cracks over a ~1inch piece) so maybe it's a combination of both.. I suppose I will try to replace the alternator first if I can manage to find one, but God help me if it's the water pump. I basically know nothing about cars and am learning as I go... tearing down the whole engine is not something I want to do right now, and I doubt I can find a water pump for this car easily.

[blueamber]

Back off on the belt tensions, tight belts can stress bearings and maybe make them noisy.

[greywolf27030]

Water pumps are usually readily available and cheap. Search around and get your ALT rebuilt locally if you can. Replace tensioners also, cheap insurance.

[mr_gr1mm]

So I'm planning to have my alt tested at an auto parts store.. but holy shit is there a way to get it out of the engine bay without having to remove major components? I ended up giving up cause I couldn't get it out from underneath the engine block. Really hoping my alt is the issue cause I'm not ready for a water pump replacement yet.. I'm too inexperienced.

[Andotron]

There is a path!
I had the same issue, although my Capri is RHD.
Take the heater hoses off and feed it though the top.
here's a pic....

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aSPstyrxMiBwIx74rPlB9dDTAIS9BKmY/view?usp=sharing

[EShepherd]

So I'm planning to have my alt tested at an auto parts store.. but holy shit is there a way to get it out of the engine bay without having to remove major components? I ended up giving up cause I couldn't get it out from underneath the engine block. Really hoping my alt is the issue cause I'm not ready for a water pump replacement yet.. I'm too inexperienced.

I believe I ended up removing my intake manifold in order to remove my alternator. It is probably possible without pulling off the intake, but you have PLENTY of room once it is out of your way. You just need either wobble extensions or universal (swivel) sockets, because a couple of the intake fasteners are a PITA to get at. There's a couple you'll need to get to from under the car, too. If you remove the engine oil filter, (and possibly even the oil cooler behind it) you'll be able to see them a bit easier.

That being said; try not to fall into the "I'm too inexperienced to do that job" trap. The entire car is just nuts and bolts. As long as you've got the tools, you can do the job. The alternator, intake manifold, whatever. May not be super easy to get to, but have faith. Take a ton of pictures so you remember where everything goes. Even the water pump, it's not too bad on the Capri. You could totally do it without removing the engine.

[Rocketman]

You can remove the alternator out the top by unbolting the idle valve from the intake manifold and moving it out of the way a bit. It's a tight fit but that is the way.

And these are great cars to wrench on and learn, mechanically speaking. Newer vehicles can an absolute nightmare. I had done an alternator on a Ford 500 that required removing an axle and then dropping the rear part of the engine subframe an inch+ just to have enough clearance to squeeze the alt out. Most alt mounting bolts had to be located by feel. Not fun! Capri is cake comparatively

[mr_gr1mm]

Thanks for the support everyone! Had the alternator tested and it definitely seems like the bearings are worn out. I was looking on rock auto for replacements but unfortunately all of the refurbished 85amp alts were bought up just as I saved up the money.. I really don't want the aftermarket mitsubishi ones as they are only 70 amps and I've heard bad things (like needing to swap the spindle with the OEM alternator). Has anyone had experience with these aftermarket units? I think my car is going to be sitting for a while until I can get this sorted out..

[Rocketman]

The 70A isn't "Aftermarket", it was standard on all capris after a certain date. The 85A Bosch was used on early build capris up to ~oct of 1990 I think, worth double checking that.
The spindle doesn't need swapped, just the pulley - at least that's what is said. I've never swapped a pulley before and have had minimal (normal) issues with the belts, ALWAYS carry a spare belt and the tools needed to change it

You can switch to the 70 Mitsubishi alternator, but you'll need the electrical plug for the back of it, and the lower pivot bolt, it's a different size. Not sure the specs on it I had a spare one from a mitsu-equipped car. I have switched several before, it's a bit of work, the mitsu units are easier to find and generally cheaper and they work fine, the 15A doesn't make a lick of difference