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Author Topic: Exhaust manifold  (Read 5303 times)

dennis

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Exhaust manifold
« on: December 03, 2008, 01:40:00 PM »
Got a crack in my XR2 exhaust manifold.  How difficult is it to change?  What are the chances of breaking bolts?
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Was 1991 NA but now 1994 XR2

Rocketman

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2008, 05:10:00 PM »
They're all cracked. Its mostly a cosmetic they usually dont leak too bad if at all.

MCCM might have some un-cracked ones for sale but they usually all end up cracked anyway.
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1.8L Turbo All Wheel Drive Capri... the "GTXR2"


dennis

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #2 on: December 04, 2008, 12:13:00 PM »
Mine is cracked but is not leaking much so it will be ok for awhile.  I'm just wondering if bolts will break when trying to replace it.
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Was 1991 NA but now 1994 XR2

Yuri

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2008, 05:17:00 AM »
ya, mine's cracked... has been for years... right where the o2 sensor is... thing is b/c of winter now.. i can see the exhaust gas coming out from it.. i kinda want a custom manifold made
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Rocketman

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2008, 08:50:00 AM »
The manifold may leak for the first few seconds of startup untill it heats up and expands forcing the crack closed. I have seen this before and it did not leak once warm.
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Yuri

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #5 on: December 14, 2008, 04:09:00 AM »
so... to put it short.... spend nearly a grand and get a custom manifold made and upgrade the turbo at the same time.....or ignore it like the rest of us
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Gus Kelley

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #6 on: December 14, 2008, 06:59:00 AM »
Hey Yuri! It'd be great, but I think if he looked hard enough, he'd find a replacement. Up until last spring new manifolds were still available. Also custom manifolds are available like you suggested for about $300.00 and then upgrade to a larger turbo also as you stated.  Gus
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Rocketman

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #7 on: December 14, 2008, 07:46:00 AM »
Which manifold are you referring to that is $300?
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Gus Kelley

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #8 on: December 14, 2008, 01:58:00 PM »
Hey Rocket!  JGS, They are in Oregon. You have to provide a bung for O2 sensor and can choose turbo flanges. I haven't made an inquiry yet. Also there was a tube header on Ebay for miatas that might work, and it was flanged for a Mitso TD04. $100  Gus
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Rocketman

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #9 on: December 15, 2008, 08:00:00 AM »
It should be noted that the JGS tools manifold even in the 'assembled' kit still needs a substantial amount of fabrication. They provide a solid log and you need to locate and cut a hole for the flange, and find somebody or weld the flange on yourself. Last was checked they did not offer the ihi RHB5 flange if wanting to stick with the stock turbo or its variants.
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Gus Kelley

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #10 on: December 15, 2008, 09:38:00 AM »
Hey Rocket! I'm very aware of the flange welding(no problem) and no, I was not aware of the stock being unavailable but that is not in the equation. Gus.
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Phillip

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #11 on: December 29, 2008, 10:13:00 AM »
I have 2 cracked manifolds and my brother welds for a living. I am going to give him the worst of the 2 to try a repair on. From what he told me he needs to heat the cast iron up to about 600 degrees and use stainless wire on it to keep it from cracking at the weld. He said it should work.
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Gus Kelley

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #12 on: December 29, 2008, 10:37:00 AM »
Hey Phil! If your brother welds for a living then he should know what to do. A couple of things though. It's wise to try on the worst first. Assuming yours are cracked in the same place as everyone elses, between #2&3 cylinder down into the 02 sensor port. Make sure you have a tap for the threads. Now we go go about the repairs is to groove out the crack 1/2 depth and then heat the manifold cherry red in a kiln,then stick weld with a high nickel rod. The rod number escapes my memory but use either 3/32 or 1/8. Any welding supply will have it and just tell them what you're doing. It's always fun on the first one. In fact if he hasn't done one before ,it might be wise to experiment on some junk manifold with no meaning.  Good Luck!  Gus
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Rocketman

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #13 on: December 29, 2008, 12:36:00 PM »
Use nickel rod with an arc welder for welding cast iron. I work in an iron foundry and all our cast iron parts with minor defects are welded with nickel rod.

Stainless wire as in MIG? ...

I agree with Gus on heating it. I did take a junk manifold into work to experiment. I ground it out and had one of the professionals lay a bead and the crack came right through the weld as it cooled(we did not preheat it. we're confident that would have prevented it) Once you heat/weld it its best to submerse it in a bin of dry sand or perlite to allow it to cool slower. That will tremendously reduce the heat stress on the weld.
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Gus Kelley

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Exhaust manifold
« Reply #14 on: December 29, 2008, 09:34:00 PM »
Hey Phil!  I thought I filed an added response to Rocket's comment but I guess it didn't fly through the net to post here. So here I go. After the weld, place the manifold in hot sand or put it back into a kiln at a reduced temp setting and continue reducing the heat over 20-30 mins to gradually cool down. That will help to secure the integrity of your efforts. My friends and I have done this near a dozen times years ago on some rare chevy and chrysler manifolds and had good results.  Gus
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