this civic is chris whites (khrys on here) old car.. he has since sold it ...
this was an ls v-tec with a b16 head and a t3-t4 turbo, pushing in the 600cfm range...
with a 10.2-1 compression,on 16psi, running regular pump 93 octane.. made 322whp... no ping no race gas...thats on a large 1.8 (a 1.6 is far more resistant to ping)
now my engine is a 1.6 running a 405cfm turbo on a 9.2-1 compression (see some similaraties) and im making 218whp on 18psi on 93 pump gas....
both of theese cars are running stock. pistons, rods, and cams... neither car detonates due to compression or heat on regular 93 octane fuel.
what is my point.... if 10.2 @ 16psi dosent detonate when properly tuned on 93 octane...
at what point does fuel detonate...
one thing is for sure with lower compression you can play with timing alot more...
but, bigger the turbo, the bigger the lag, and higher compression spools a turbo faster,and makes more power off boost, the power off the line and before 4,000 rpm is greatly enhanced...
drivability in real world conditions is greatly enhanced...a higher compression makes for a more complete burn, and alot less issues with cylinder wash...
life of the lower compression engine will be longer.. but a single shot of spray and you have totally blown that theory out of the water...
nitrous destroys engines, even used properly and with caution, its just volitile and very violent shit man...
a fully built 5.0 ford, with eagle rods, and probe nitrous pistons... with a conservative
12-1 compression, on a 250 shot.. will last approx.1.5 seasons at the drag strip before it is so worn that a rebuild is badly needed..(power has been lost) my friend james lewis has two fox bodies with two 5.0 engines built to near this spec, and rebuilds one every winter..
he also owns southside auto repair here in lexington and can afford to do that....
now if your going to build a turbo car to say 200hp and spray the other 50 for show on the dyno then ok... but to say you have 250 hp
only on the bottle aint no fun ...
if you bought it cheap, and thought you could just slap it together... heres another reality comin ... to use a wide assed eagle rod, you want to check into getting your block milled to clear the sides of the block when the piston comes to TDC...
the one in the middle is your stock rod, to the left hand side is a BPD JDM GT-R rod..
the eagles are even bigger ... just make sure its milled so the bigger rod has clearance on the top corners as the assembly spins...(most engines need mill work to get them to fit...
ill post aggain, when i have more time... but think about what your getting into, and cover all the angles BEFORE you put it all together and start it... you will need plastiguage to check the tolerances on the crankshaft..(you cant throw the eagles onto a stock crank that is wore below spec)... or bearings i should say...
anywho ill post later on ....Joe