Thanks for the reply Rocket, that is fantastic news. I was very worried there.
I've got another question for you guys. Are the head bolts, main bolts, and rod bolts all torque to yield? Or am I able to reuse them? The service manual doesn't make any mention of having to replace them (that I've seen, at least). I don't want to spend a bunch of money on fasteners if I can avoid it, no matter how much I love ARP head studs. It does mention to replace the copper washers that are below and above the oil squirters. Is there anything special about them, or can I just go grab a set of copper washers from the parts store for brake hoses and similar?
I'm interested in seeing what the head looks like. I did a single cam head and that think was awful. I couldn't believe who bad the ports were in that thing.
Looking real good. It has been a while since I've gone over a head to clean up the ports like that.
I would highly recommend looking into an flex extension for your dremel - I'm sure you've seen them. It drives a cable and gives you a little pencil tip that has much more reach into tight spaces.
Harbor Freight also sells a very inexpensive 3" bench grinder with that same attachment on it, I feel with a bit more oomph than the dremel, albeit at lower speeds. Use a coupon and you can get it super cheap. https://www.harborfreight.com/bench-grinder-with-flex-shaft-43533.html
If you're willing to shell out the dough, look into a Foredom unit, they have a foot pedal control and a 1/3hp motor that hangs over the bench, they are the choice tool for jewelry makers and I'm told expert port/polish guys use these as well.
The ports on these Mazda motors are really quite nice compared to many other manufacturers (of the same vintage), yes they're not perfect but they did a very reasonable job
All that said you're doing a brilliant job, it's refreshing to see someone taking the time to give one of these motors some love.
Impressive work, that has to flow better.
I can empathize with you. I've done iron head V8's and expected that to take a while, but was surprised at how long it took to do these little things.
Correct me if I'm wrong or this has already been said, but you would want SOME roughness in the intake tract for tumbling, wouldn't you?
I think cam gears are the only to adjust cam timing.
Thanks Wolf! I'm so close to putting this back together, I just ordered a valve spring compressor tool. I'm not trying to do the socket & deadblow trick to install the keepers. Never again.
I've always had my valves done at the machine shop. Had a friend that ran one and even did it myself sometime. Wonder what the difference is in the final product.
"In addition to all of that, the only real modification I have planned is to replace a bunch of the bushings in the car with poly bushings. I was planning on making my own, since I can't seem to find much in the way of aftermarket. I'd like to add some chasis bracing too, but again that'll probably all have to be custom. I can't even find front and rear strut tower bars. That's okay though, I do enjoy fabrication work."
There are many suspension parts still available for our chassis. You can use the BF Mazda bushings from the 323 for starters.
I have replaced most of the bushings and can help you with part numbers. Ultra Racing makes Strut bars, front and rear lower tie bars, Front and Rear Anti-Sway Bars and quality is good. I also have a 4pt double hoop roll bar from the Porsche 986 that easily welds in for extra rigidity and safety if that interests you. There's more I can turn you on to, but that's a good start.
"In addition to all of that, the only real modification I have planned is to replace a bunch of the bushings in the car with poly bushings. I was planning on making my own, since I can't seem to find much in the way of aftermarket. I'd like to add some chasis bracing too, but again that'll probably all have to be custom. I can't even find front and rear strut tower bars. That's okay though, I do enjoy fabrication work."
There are many suspension parts still available for our chassis. You can use the BF Mazda bushings from the 323 for starters.
I have replaced most of the bushings and can help you with part numbers. Ultra Racing makes Strut bars, front and rear lower tie bars, Front and Rear Anti-Sway Bars and quality is good. I also have a 4pt double hoop roll bar from the Porsche 986 that easily welds in for extra rigidity and safety if that interests you. There's more I can turn you on to, but that's a good start.
That's fantastic news! I'd love part numbers for the bushings and the strut bars. I don't need the roll hoop bar, I've got a cage guy who owes me a favor (if I even go that route with it). I appreciate the help.
You might have some luck on Rockauto, there's an entire section for Capri electrical connectors:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,1991,capri,1.6l+l4+turbocharged,1196636,electrical-connector
Looks like some of them might not be for our car but there's plenty that are
Just looked again it was 50AUD about 40USD and has the injectors too here's the link if it helps. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-CAPRI-CONVERTIBLE-USED-SET-OF-TURBO-INJECTORS-LOOM-SUIT-ALL-1989-1994-/254925368434?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
Very, very nice. You didn't mention cam bearings, what kind of cam bearings does it have?
That downpipe didn't turn out too bad. Something there to work with.
I've got an old Corksport stainless divorced downpipe on my shelf that needs to be poked. They made them for the 1.8L BPT and someone modified it (rather poorly) to fit the B6T. I'll have to get some pics of it for inspirations for y'all.
Russ had a twin-exit exhaust on his Super-Roo, I'm not sure if his pictures are still online though. I don't believe there is any room under the trunk for the muffler, you will have to run the muffler in the OE location and split after the rear axle. That's the style of setup that Russ had, he had a local exhaust shop fab that for him.
Yeah, that pipe over the axle ends up looking like a piece of spaghetti. Didn't someone on here once offer turbo headers?
Ooooooooooof. I've got a shell for you. Come get it
That rust is crazy! I got my Chineseium single ball baring turbo for $250aud and it's like new bearly used, sells new for $650aud and the dual ball bearing ones are only $750 have you seen boostedboiz on youtube, thay are making over 1000 horse power on these eBay turbos and they hold up too man, no need to spend big money for a garrett, this is the 3rd upgrade I've done on the turbo vj14 with vj11 comp wheel then a vf12 from a Subaru with the vj14 turbine wheel to keep it so it bolted up stock and this was a huge improvement over the vj14/11 but I wanted more so I went big! it's awesome man! Even the vf12 was about the size of a 2860 and in my eyes that's not enough, maybe a 2871 would be a good fit?
Ooooooooooof. I've got a shell for you. Come get it
If your gonna play around with turbo upgrades and turning up the boost I would really recommend you invest in a wideband 02 sensor and gauge, I would have blown it up for sure if I didn't have one! It's really worth it!
BTW I'm keen as to find out what the flyin miata thing is 🤔 your build has cliff hangers 😂
Ooooooooooof. I've got a shell for you. Come get it
Also Rocket, if you're serious, I'll definitely come take your front fenders off your hands. And cut away your driver's side rear fender and take that home with me too. :P Unless it's a rolling chassis, I guess I could tow away the whole deal. I'm really strapped for room for more cars here though. I believe we have 13 cars in various states of decay sitting on this little half acre property. It's bad. In my defense though, only 3 of those are mine.
Actually, on that note....there's a Buick Grand Sport and a legitimate Grand National here. The Gnx is totaled, due to the frame being bent. Everything under the hood should be salvageable though. Any idea if that turbo would be usable on the Capri? That would be insane.
I have some ancient pictures on my website that might help: https://werbatfik.com/progress.htm
I see new hardware on the turbo flange. Is it grade 10? pretty sure the OEM studs there are skookum as frig, they see a lot of heat
I know the fun of tire sizes on these rims...
I have some mastercraft all seasons on my Capri, and it does pretty good in the snow and rain here in Ohio. I would recommend them.
Best of luck putting the car back together.
Yup, that's nasty.....lol
I believe there are guides out there, the big FSM doesn't have a transmission rebuild procedure? I swear I've seen it in there.
The transaxle is a G5MR or G25MR. That should get you some hits.
I know I have seen a teardown procedure on a forum before, might have been on clubprotege or fordfestiva.
There's some got-ya bits inside that will not go back together if not done in the proper order. Proceed with caution?
I've been advised when playing with the 5th gear to never disassemble those hubs with the springs and 3 bits, remove the part whole, apparently they don't like to go back together. I had one come apart once and ended up having to grab a whole assembly out of a spare trans
Look up "Vapor Blasting" or "Vapor Honing", see if someone local offers that service near you - it will make the casing parts look better than OEM
Here's the "stronger" gearsets:
https://www.par-engineering.com/product/g5mds-set-g-series-1st4th-dog-engagement-gearset/
https://www.par-engineering.com/product/g5mss-set-g-series-1st4th-synchromesh-engagement-gearset/
You could do a Toyota E153 transmission conversion for a fraction of that cost, though
You might want to consider 5th gears from a 626. They have a higher speeded ratio that will give you a higher top speed and with your power it would be a plus.
You might want to consider 5th gears from a 626. They have a higher speeded ratio that will give you a higher top speed and with your power it would be a plus.
Yeah, that's the one I vaguely remembered. Definitely something I'd like to do. 5th gear is probably only ever going to be used on the highway, so it wouldn't hurt to have a wider ratio there. Any idea where to source one? Can they be had new, or is it something I'll need to find from someone parting out a car?
I apologize, when I checked on them eBay and Amazon both listed them. Seems neither has them now. Looking good, keep up the good work.
@EShepard just so you know there is no sound deadening. All the sound deadening is attached to the carpet and once you pull it up thats it, theres nothing glued to the floor like new cars. Just wanted to let you know, as i'm currently tackling the interior in my car! All the sound deadening on my 91 is the wool style.
I just need to swap the soft top cover over, and then the whole two-tone job will be done on it. It looks pretty good.
I just need to swap the soft top cover over, and then the whole two-tone job will be done on it. It looks pretty good.
Don't forget you need to swap windows over if the frame is different. I don't recall the year but later model cars have a slightly different convertible frame.
You're an inspiration man.....makes me tired though.
Great that you are willing to fix wiring looms. If you want to make a little money at it, you might want to get involved with the Festiva community making swap harnesses for B6's.
I'm thinking that's a very good price, especiall since it's an improved version on the OE.
I can only imagine how bad the handling would be with the wheels not able to rotate independently.
I can only imagine how bad the handling would be with the wheels not able to rotate independently.
Yeah, that's about what I suspected. I figured it might not be too bad at highway-ish speeds, but anything under 30mph or so, it'd probably be damn near un-drivable. Silly question, but I figured I might as well float the thought out there while I still have super easy access to the differential. I don't particularly want to take this thing apart again, but I don't really want to put a $1200 LSD into a transmission for a car I've still never even driven yet. Ah well
I was lucky with my bumper somebody had had it off in the past and had only put back 4 of the main 6 bolts. Looking at it I have no idea how the other 2 bolts are ment to be removed or installed. If you can get it off it will make mounting the intercooler much easier and tidier I would imagine. With out those 2 impossible bolts my bumper is a breeze to take off! Good to see it all coming along man, I've been so busy lately I haven't really had a chance to comment and get involved, but I have been periodically checking what you have been up to. Good stuff man you put us all to shame with the exception of rocket man of course!
Thanks man :)
Two samewhat related questions. So I was talking to the machinist about the freeze plugs. He was making me regret buying steel ones, saying that they can/will rust over time. Anyone know how true this is? It sounds like it could be, but I also think that there is rust inhibitors in coolant, so I'm not super convinced yet that I should order some brass ones. He also asked what kind of sealant I was going to use when I install them. I've always done them dry. I thought they were an interference fit type of deal. Smack them in with a socket and forget about them. He said he's been using a thin bead of JB weld along the outer edge of them for years, and that he's never had them leak on him since he started doing so. Does that sound like something I should try?
Should I return the steel freeze plugs and get brass ones?
Should I use any type of sealant/JB weld when installing them?
I'm currently inclined to just hammer in my steel ones dry, like I've always done, and call it a day. But, I very much don't want to have to pull this engine back out in a year or two because of such a stupid part, Thoughts?
Sorry I didn't find this before you rebuilt your tranmission.
https://mazdas247.com/forum/t/g-series-5sp-transmission-complete-teardown-rebuild-w-lsd-5th-gear-swap.123791691/
Should be able to find the seals at the normal gettin' spots.
RockAuto has both listed:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,1991,capri,1.6l+l4+turbocharged,1196636,engine,crankshaft+seal,5604
(remember the discount code if you order from there, you always forget)
But should be able to get them at a local gettin' spot too
Main crank bolt for short nose will be a Mazda dealer item.
Looking good btw. Slap your transmission back together and throw it in while you source a good used. Try www.car-part.com it is a junkyard aggregator you can sort by price/miles/distance etc
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Cometic-C4122-051-051-Cylinder-Head-Gasket-suits-Mazda-B6T-Turbo-DOHC-16-Va-/303237388641?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=705-154756-20017-0
This is the cometic multi layer head gasket I used. I think this one is thicker and will lower your compression ratio, but I'm pretty sure you can get it in the standard size as well. I wasn't concerned about it dropping the compression ratio due to thicker head gasket as the pistons I used raised it to 8.6.
Using fresh decks on the block and head, apr head studs and the cometic gasket is a very strong seal. I even torqued the arp studs a bit more than they recommend. I have been running 30psi and had 0 problems with it, it even accidentally saw 40psi last week and didn't complain 😂. The last composite one I had let go after a couple of weeks at 20psi.
I've been battling with a stupid problem that has had me stuck. The alignment dowel pins for the cylinder head/block were stuck flush into the head. I needed to get them out, so I could use them to align the head gasket and make sure everything went together smoothly. The damn things were completely recessed into the holes, so there was nothing I could grab onto and try to spin or pull them out.
I eventually (just today) managed to get the things out with a cute little miniature slide hammer and some two-jaw pullers that thread onto the end of it. It wasn't easy, and of course I destroyed the dowels in the process. Does anyone know where I can buy new ones? I can't find them on Rock Auto. I'll call Mazda tomorrow, they may be able to help me. Figured I'd see if anyone on here had any ideas before I go the dealership route.
EDIKT:
Nevermind, found and ordered them. Should be here sometime within the next two weeks, sadly.
Pretty work. I noticed when you were cleaning out the treads it looks like you were using a threading tap. On a couple of different shows lately I've heard that you should use a re-threading tap. A threading tap would distort the thread. Really? I've always used a regular tap. What are your views?
Pretty work. I noticed when you were cleaning out the treads it looks like you were using a threading tap. On a couple of different shows lately I've heard that you should use a re-threading tap. A threading tap would distort the thread. Really? I've always used a regular tap. What are your views?
So the old-timer who I apprenticed under explained it to me like this. A new tap is for cutting threads. They can be used to clean threads, but you've got to be very careful. An old tap becomes a thread-chaser. Once it's been used and has lost it's edge, it's perfect for cleaning threads without causing too much damage.
I didn't have any used taps in the size our head bolts are, so I used a new tap. Even with a fresh tap, it was incredibly difficult to clean those threads out. I didn't feel any play in the studs as they were being installed, so I think I managed to not do too much harm to the threads.
I'm too cheap to buy thread chasers. I have used taps in a lot of common sizes, and they do work quite well for cleaning up bolt holes. However, on something as caked up with crap as these head bolt holes were, I'd have used a fresh tap even if I had a used one. They were a serious pain in the butt to clean.
Yeah, before long all anyone will know is how to plug it in....lol
In addition to the brake master cylinder we need to work out a replacement for the distributor.
Just go to the auto parts store and ask them for a non-ac belt :) no idler needed
Care to elaborate on that?
Lot's of updates since the forum has been down for while. I'll try to keep this pretty short, since free time for me is extremely hard to come by lately. I have amazing news, bad news, and potentially catastrophic news. In order, shall we? The car is currently 95% back together! Engine and transmission in. all the lines and hoses in. etc. It's just short of a front bumper, hood, and a few electrical components. Here's a couple pictures:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OvMl5WTlCyvnV1SG9u_8J8WPvmrDqurG/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OvMl5WTlCyvnV1SG9u_8J8WPvmrDqurG/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OvDco7sAmn1Z-_C62Gvg4mKbKKsLUkzZ/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OvDco7sAmn1Z-_C62Gvg4mKbKKsLUkzZ/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OxZO56GsExR8AEZ01eBt5nQdscjzqhM6/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OxZO56GsExR8AEZ01eBt5nQdscjzqhM6/view?usp=sharing)
So that brings me to today. Ive slowly been filling it with fluids in order to check it for leaks. Power steering - no issues. Brake fluid - same deal. Here comes bad news #1. I filled it with coolant today, and it's very slowly weeping out of most of the core plus/freeze plugs on the block. What a bummer. Looks like I should be able to replace them without pulling the engine....I just need to remove; the power steering pump, the exhaust manifold, the turbo, possibly the radiator and fan, the intake manifold, throttle body bracket, starter motor, and possibly the alternator. No biggie, right? RIGHT?!? BLEH
As for the tragic news, I was wiring up the car when I discovered that I have managed to lose both my main relay and fuel pump relay. The fuel pump one appears to be readily available on Rock Auto. The main relay. not so much. Can't find it. Anywhere. Without that. I may never have a running Capri. I need your help, guys. I need a new main relay. It lives under the dash, right with the ECM. In this location, plugged into the white connector. I'm also looking for the fuel pump relay, which plugs into the yellow one:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1P5_ddYZW9VbZR2bJyW-da2Rd4LUF7r4u/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1P5_ddYZW9VbZR2bJyW-da2Rd4LUF7r4u/view?usp=sharing)
And one last missing tibit I just noticed. What goes to this fitting on the fuel filter. or canister, or whatever you want to call this piece:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OwiGpt52mDydxu5x4LraJDPRmvfGsaoM/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OwiGpt52mDydxu5x4LraJDPRmvfGsaoM/view?usp=sharing)
A massive thanks to anyone who can help me source either of those relays!
All the wiring diagrams are on Tech Capri
https://www.techcapri.com/Wiring.html
Hang in there, we're all wanting to see this build on the road.
I have an issue you might can help me with. Chassis ground. I found corroded grounds that attached to the front and back of the engine on the passenger side. One in front of the distributor and one on the VAF. The problem is that my front turn signals still don't work. I can ground the sockets and they are fine. Can you remember any more grounds that your found in removing the engine that might help me?
Thanks,
Are you still thinking about and aftermarket Ecu? I really want to do it but I'm still not confident. If you end up installing one you will have to do a installation post I can follow!
Yes, that is the issue caused by a bad connection in the region I described. No crank/start with key.
I think there is a largish metal relay box mounted to the back of the headlight bucket, is that present/connected?
That relay needs to be plugged in. If you can't find it I'll try to trace it down and take a pictureThanks Matt! I appreciate all of the help you've given me along this journey. There's a very slim chance I'd even still own this car if it wasn't for you. Well, and everyone else here. So how big of a whoopsie did I make here? Is that big metal relay the actual main relay? I suspect that's what it is, and if so I feel quite silly.
Wish I had room for something like that.
I feel your pain. My '93 has been one thing after the other. Keep up the good work.
Good luck and have a good vacation.
On a fresh rebuild you're not going to see good compression numbers, unfortunately. Things have to break in
Give me a call when you have a bit of time, we'll run over what you've checked and I'll give whatever advice I can
I wish I had time, I'd run up and spend an afternoon troubleshooting with you
Don't be discouraged, you're doing awesome work, ride the rollercoaster - it will be worth it in the end
The fuel pump is activated by airflow thru the MAF. There is a unplugged yellow connector on the passenger side. You can jump the two connectors to bypass the MAF and allow the pump to work on its own.
Gonna be super brief right now, used up literally every spare free second I had.
Talked to Rocketman on the phone for a while today. We got the car cranking with the key! There is a fresh battery and 4 gallons of fresh gas in it. I verified both fuel and spark. Super duper close, guys! It may just be flooded. I'm gonna let it sit for a couple days while I wait for my next few free minutes. Maybe double check all my vacuum hoses and fluids one last time. I didn't expect it to actually crank so soon, there may be stuff I had left un-hooked from testing.
If you get all the parts needed, bring them down and we can machine the hubs for the Galant upgrade. I have access to a press and also the Ford Special Service tool for checking bearing pre-load. Or just bring OEM bits down, whichever, I have the tools to do them.
I believe the front driverside hub that was on the car when you got it was toast, I think we discussed you swapping on the hubs/knuckles from your white car.
Regarding rear brake calipers, they are getting scarce. I am not aware of any from another vehicle that will work.
The rear calipers interchange with the 323GT and Tracer according to what I've found.
You can take your rear calipers to Advance Auto and have them rebuilt by Cardone.
Keep up the fight, we're with you.
Not a wasted spark system, that's a thing for coilpacks. If your rotor wasn't pointed at #1 that's a big issue.
Camshaft is slotted but offset, so distributor should only be able to go in one way. Didn't use a hammer did you?? haha
Make sure you have #1 TDC on compression stroke and not on exhaust stroke when checking the rotor.
Good find on the clogged fuel filter.
Regarding the FSM:
"Factory Authorized Reproduction" in the listing, so no not a FSM, likely a pile of printed pages - real FSM is a well-organized 3" thick 3-ring binder, at least for 1991
It does not sound like you are having an FPR problem
Still sounds like bad gas (despite you having added some fresh to it)
You don't mention what RPM the engine is trying to run at when you crank it. I wonder if the IAC isn't doing it's job to increase the idle at cold start. Mine do 1500RPMS or more.
This is great info for those of us who've never seen the internals of a B engine and I applaud you for the effort required to take and post the pics.
This is great info for those of us who've never seen the internals of a B engine and I applaud you for the effort required to take and post the pics.
no doubt. i have a parts car that's scrapped because rust got a lot of underneath and shop wanted over $1500 to run new metal brake lines.. frame rail was bad shape too.. but killer is the little 3 in coolant hose near distributor split, caused overheating and although car was stopped almost instantly, damage was done and lost compression in a few cyls. i think really it just needs a new head gasket.. but i don't really have the time or space to remove engine and do what he's doing, although I would love to
Wow.......inspiring
Consider yourself lucky that there are rear struts, front mounts available right now. You might add the rear bearing nuts, there is a right and left hand thread.
https://imgur.com/a/FCQy2pk
Hopefully that will work.
I thought I had mentioned the coilovers before. A member of the 1991-1994 Mercury Capri Owners Group on FB is having, I believe, 20 sets custom made. Last I heard there were a couple of sets available.
Did you check to see if there is a drain plug in the bottom of the tank?
That is the pressure sender for the gauge, the ECU does not read it. The stock gauge isn't the best so I wouldn't fret too much about it. I may have a spare one somewhere, if you come down for bearings we can take a trip to my storage and see what we can find.
The little black box is a RF suppression capacitor, it keeps electrical noise out of the distributor circuit. I have broken them before and run without them, but not a bad idea to have in place though.
Lotta love going on there.
I'm extremely glad that I'm pretty sure I figured out the fueling issue. I think rock auto still has a set of 4 available.
Nice....love the gold intake.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uRdXZT-9p2cVtEuwOG9_34Iwgnhs2Uyd/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uRdXZT-9p2cVtEuwOG9_34Iwgnhs2Uyd/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fUGlM29rzzmrMOd5BpHRhjN4krW997_v/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fUGlM29rzzmrMOd5BpHRhjN4krW997_v/view?usp=sharing)
So yeah, these things were in even worse shape than they look. In addition to the severe rust and deteriorated rubber, the bearings were also super notchy. You can also fully depress each shock with next to no force, and as you can see they don't have any desire to rebound anymore. I've never actually seen a pair of struts that had so many different failures going on at the same time.
Have a quick little how-to:
1. Mount spring in compressor
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lmfxKX9jqJrpWGnrIqhPlGSayjPs4itG/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lmfxKX9jqJrpWGnrIqhPlGSayjPs4itG/view?usp=sharing)
2. Compress spring
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PrU1IUB_cRrT5UV9l0RVMlZtx2FGewTA/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1PrU1IUB_cRrT5UV9l0RVMlZtx2FGewTA/view?usp=sharing)
3. Remove top nut (24mm open ended wrench)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g7ETlR_g7M43KAGa1roR76cZPH_R45sM/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1g7ETlR_g7M43KAGa1roR76cZPH_R45sM/view?usp=sharing)
4. Persuade stupid nut to let go
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C2AG0twu5_l_zbo35qpRihkWEftwYLMM/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C2AG0twu5_l_zbo35qpRihkWEftwYLMM/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ZdihMHZYbGsa8AxYgxztJwcHi1zVhUs/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/12ZdihMHZYbGsa8AxYgxztJwcHi1zVhUs/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FsaGKxZTT1jo2V5uFe2_klODwnWGqX-M/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FsaGKxZTT1jo2V5uFe2_klODwnWGqX-M/view?usp=sharing)
(Caution, hot nuts)
5. Beat the mount and top-hat off with a hammer
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kizXa3BzdUpqIXkvZWkoLTogurRBCAvw/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kizXa3BzdUpqIXkvZWkoLTogurRBCAvw/view?usp=sharing)
6. Re-assemble, enjoy
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hd7Z9oZtaj-Rdh8fKJU6bMf-FtxHJWE1/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1hd7Z9oZtaj-Rdh8fKJU6bMf-FtxHJWE1/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UY51GrbpyQPup5PR1MQUs2Pxe-h6jlv8/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UY51GrbpyQPup5PR1MQUs2Pxe-h6jlv8/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zh24cJMaRKUgC--ahHJP7HAuTDZTeNa_/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1zh24cJMaRKUgC--ahHJP7HAuTDZTeNa_/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SzQFNae3xEgy0CrkMrJjVEoWD7_Auxyi/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SzQFNae3xEgy0CrkMrJjVEoWD7_Auxyi/view?usp=sharing)
When I eventually get myself a set of H&R springs, I'm going to need to buy new rubber spring seats. The top ones are in okay shape, the bottom ones look like my dog has been playing with them for years.
https://imgur.com/a/FCQy2pkDo you have a make/model for the coil overs, been looking for a long time and have not been able to find any, seems like you have some good luck!
Hopefully that will work.
A FB group member had a bunch custom made, they should land any time. Last time I heard, he had a couple slated for Aus left.Thanks so much, they are so beautiful!
This is really odd but at you guys actually active on this site, been looking for people I can talk to and get advice from about my car, not super easy to find good info.A FB group member had a bunch custom made, they should land any time. Last time I heard, he had a couple slated for Aus left.Thanks so much, they are so beautiful!
Yeah, you eat an elephant one bite at a time.....lol
Yeah, you eat an elephant one bite at a time.....lol
Getting pretty full of elephant over here. Someone send help >.>
^^ To the new fella, it's relatively active you just need to be patient. Someone will answer you eventually. Torque spec for tophat center nut is in service manual....but I went with until it felt tight. I hate (fear) the spring compressor, and have no desire to spend extra time under it just to satisfy my OCD.
Does anyone know what I'm supposed to use for a gasket between the VAF & the air-box? I think I have found my intake leak, but I'm unsure how to fix it. Where the air-metering part of the VAF meets up with the air filter part, I've got a tiny little leak. I tried using RTV to fix it, but no go.
Does anyone know what I'm supposed to use for a gasket between the VAF & the air-box? I think I have found my intake leak, but I'm unsure how to fix it. Where the air-metering part of the VAF meets up with the air filter part, I've got a tiny little leak. I tried using RTV to fix it, but no go.
My mechanic friend won't stop singing praises about ThreeBond 1207B-100 silicone.
Does anyone know what I'm supposed to use for a gasket between the VAF & the air-box? I think I have found my intake leak, but I'm unsure how to fix it. Where the air-metering part of the VAF meets up with the air filter part, I've got a tiny little leak. I tried using RTV to fix it, but no go.
My mechanic friend won't stop singing praises about ThreeBond 1207B-100 silicone.
On the advice of Matt, I tried to re-seal it with paper gasket-maker & a small amount of RTV. It definitely improved the idle quality, but it still stalls out if I let the throttle fully close. I assume there is either another vacuum leak, or it's still leaking at the VAF. If that's the case, I'll give the ThreeBond a shot.
Anyone have a creative solution to smoke test my car, without needing an air compressor? The VAF was the only thing that looked suspect, after giving the intake system a very thorough visual inspection.
Does anyone know what I'm supposed to use for a gasket between the VAF & the air-box? I think I have found my intake leak, but I'm unsure how to fix it. Where the air-metering part of the VAF meets up with the air filter part, I've got a tiny little leak. I tried using RTV to fix it, but no go.
My mechanic friend won't stop singing praises about ThreeBond 1207B-100 silicone.
On the advice of Matt, I tried to re-seal it with paper gasket-maker & a small amount of RTV. It definitely improved the idle quality, but it still stalls out if I let the throttle fully close. I assume there is either another vacuum leak, or it's still leaking at the VAF. If that's the case, I'll give the ThreeBond a shot.
Anyone have a creative solution to smoke test my car, without needing an air compressor? The VAF was the only thing that looked suspect, after giving the intake system a very thorough visual inspection.
I don’t know if this will help, but if you flip the hose on your shop vacuum so it will blow and try and use it that way, but if you don’t have one then I’m out of ideas, used the shop vacuum to try and find exhaust leaks a while back, spraying soapy water in it to see where it bubbles also is an idea, sorry I can’t help more. Anyone have advice on a leaking soft top, the windows don’t always line up and it likes to leak, I just am out of ideas. Best Luck finding the leak finding the air leak!
Does anyone know what I'm supposed to use for a gasket between the VAF & the air-box? I think I have found my intake leak, but I'm unsure how to fix it. Where the air-metering part of the VAF meets up with the air filter part, I've got a tiny little leak. I tried using RTV to fix it, but no go.
My mechanic friend won't stop singing praises about ThreeBond 1207B-100 silicone.
On the advice of Matt, I tried to re-seal it with paper gasket-maker & a small amount of RTV. It definitely improved the idle quality, but it still stalls out if I let the throttle fully close. I assume there is either another vacuum leak, or it's still leaking at the VAF. If that's the case, I'll give the ThreeBond a shot.
Anyone have a creative solution to smoke test my car, without needing an air compressor? The VAF was the only thing that looked suspect, after giving the intake system a very thorough visual inspection.
I don’t know if this will help, but if you flip the hose on your shop vacuum so it will blow and try and use it that way, but if you don’t have one then I’m out of ideas, used the shop vacuum to try and find exhaust leaks a while back, spraying soapy water in it to see where it bubbles also is an idea, sorry I can’t help more. Anyone have advice on a leaking soft top, the windows don’t always line up and it likes to leak, I just am out of ideas. Best Luck finding the leak finding the air leak!
I like the new guy, guys.
Brb, off to Walmart for a shop vac.
Bad news is, the shop vac shenanigans didn't really help me out. I bet I can get it to work, but I didn't have the time.Glad to hear it’s running, sorry the shop vac didn’t help a ton! I had a horrible time with my belt is was squeaking so much and even broke at one time, ultimately I had to try and tighten it a ton and it went away, I hope that you can figure it out!
Good news....the car MOVED UNDER ITS OWN POWER! Like, a quarter of a mile. It's extremely tricky driving & shifting while also not ever letting the throttle plate fully close....but fuck it after all these years I'm gonna call that a first successful road test. The rose gold wheels look cherry, too (from 5 ft away).
I'll get pics and vids up eventually lol
PS- the god awful belt squeal at start up. Uhh, looser? Tighter? It doesn't wanna stop. I'm not complaining, but the old lady across the street might
PS- the god awful belt squeal at start up. Uhh, looser? Tighter? It doesn't wanna stop. I'm not complaining, but the old lady across the street mightGlad to hear it’s running, sorry the shop vac didn’t help a ton! I had a horrible time with my belt is was squeaking so much and even broke at one time, ultimately I had to try and tighten it a ton and it went away, I hope that you can figure it out!
Actually yeah it was that belt, I couldn’t believe how had it was the get it to go away, and fortunately it wasn’t and oil leak, from what I had to go through it felt like a faulty design because the belt needed to be tighter but there was no actual belt tensioner but we made it work. Have you heard of capris with a tensioner?PS- the god awful belt squeal at start up. Uhh, looser? Tighter? It doesn't wanna stop. I'm not complaining, but the old lady across the street mightGlad to hear it’s running, sorry the shop vac didn’t help a ton! I had a horrible time with my belt is was squeaking so much and even broke at one time, ultimately I had to try and tighten it a ton and it went away, I hope that you can figure it out!
Out of curiosity is this the alternator/water pump belt your talking about. I had trouble with my alternator belt squealing for years and tried all sorts of different belts and re tightening it, all to no avail. Eventually I found out there was an oil leak which was spraying oil on the belt and since getting the leak fixed and putting a new unsaturated belt on it's been perfectly fine.
Glad you got to drive it. Yeah belt needs to be really tight. Also are you using a stock belt or the belt used by experienced owners?
"You got a part number I can reference?"Thanks so much, gonna have to check the belts I have replaced!
Dayco 17360 or equivalent
"You got a part number I can reference?"
Dayco 17360 or equivalent
In Gates you would want a 9360, it is one size wider and one size longer than what you have
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JErXHTULxV5C6Zaj1pSPG8v7ZY-vTtQ1/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JErXHTULxV5C6Zaj1pSPG8v7ZY-vTtQ1/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JgYJj3xc7FGrEFcQFgeSmeaiIEC_up_d/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JgYJj3xc7FGrEFcQFgeSmeaiIEC_up_d/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L_NOb8PRnclRBqSHKY5Vu10Bn6sASuTJ/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L_NOb8PRnclRBqSHKY5Vu10Bn6sASuTJ/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KFleFq0LfVfbhNb6vcJs3qKlQYayLPDk/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KFleFq0LfVfbhNb6vcJs3qKlQYayLPDk/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LgFj1lb_LvU2Aefz1MEU-yEArTCs8qGs/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LgFj1lb_LvU2Aefz1MEU-yEArTCs8qGs/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LcR6JXwYQN0bWdEsmBxFfu47H1jz3rni/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LcR6JXwYQN0bWdEsmBxFfu47H1jz3rni/view?usp=sharing)
Out of her dungeon:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LNFA00Yp6ouW4_SLEJKrSM00pOjSdwaS/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LNFA00Yp6ouW4_SLEJKrSM00pOjSdwaS/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LBYnlnpN8wyIITJqIsPJxfhsppIovMxF/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LBYnlnpN8wyIITJqIsPJxfhsppIovMxF/view?usp=sharing)
And bonus preview of the next project (I know literally nothing of body work/paint):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LSg2DA2qJQDNGWw1PnfspW2hL--_hIfa/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LSg2DA2qJQDNGWw1PnfspW2hL--_hIfa/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JErXHTULxV5C6Zaj1pSPG8v7ZY-vTtQ1/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JErXHTULxV5C6Zaj1pSPG8v7ZY-vTtQ1/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JgYJj3xc7FGrEFcQFgeSmeaiIEC_up_d/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1JgYJj3xc7FGrEFcQFgeSmeaiIEC_up_d/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L_NOb8PRnclRBqSHKY5Vu10Bn6sASuTJ/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1L_NOb8PRnclRBqSHKY5Vu10Bn6sASuTJ/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KFleFq0LfVfbhNb6vcJs3qKlQYayLPDk/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KFleFq0LfVfbhNb6vcJs3qKlQYayLPDk/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LgFj1lb_LvU2Aefz1MEU-yEArTCs8qGs/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LgFj1lb_LvU2Aefz1MEU-yEArTCs8qGs/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LcR6JXwYQN0bWdEsmBxFfu47H1jz3rni/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LcR6JXwYQN0bWdEsmBxFfu47H1jz3rni/view?usp=sharing)
Out of her dungeon:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LNFA00Yp6ouW4_SLEJKrSM00pOjSdwaS/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LNFA00Yp6ouW4_SLEJKrSM00pOjSdwaS/view?usp=sharing)
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LBYnlnpN8wyIITJqIsPJxfhsppIovMxF/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LBYnlnpN8wyIITJqIsPJxfhsppIovMxF/view?usp=sharing)
And bonus preview of the next project (I know literally nothing of body work/paint):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LSg2DA2qJQDNGWw1PnfspW2hL--_hIfa/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LSg2DA2qJQDNGWw1PnfspW2hL--_hIfa/view?usp=sharing)
Aww man I’m so jealous, you have had such good progress!!! I’m excited to see the body work and hear about it I’ll definitely have to get some tips from you after you do it!
Good luck
So good news, great news, and some bad news.So glad you found and fixed the leak that’s amazing. When you get a radiator are you getting the original one or are you getting a better quality one, I found a forum on here a while ago that found a better performance radiator that fits the car.
I did indeed find and fix the vacuum leak. Fantastic. I was able to warm up the car to operating temperature and take it for a quick drive. During the drive, I discovered my janky trailing arm repair didn't take. Then I parked, and my radiator promptly blew up. Yikes. Lots of smoke.
Gonna order arms and a rad.
Oh, I FOUND THE FRIGGING TITLE! Gotta go find a notary at some point now
So good news, great news, and some bad news.So glad you found and fixed the leak that’s amazing. When you get a radiator are you getting the original one or are you getting a better quality one, I found a forum on here a while ago that found a better performance radiator that fits the car.
I did indeed find and fix the vacuum leak. Fantastic. I was able to warm up the car to operating temperature and take it for a quick drive. During the drive, I discovered my janky trailing arm repair didn't take. Then I parked, and my radiator promptly blew up. Yikes. Lots of smoke.
Gonna order arms and a rad.
Oh, I FOUND THE FRIGGING TITLE! Gotta go find a notary at some point now
You go man. The lower attachment point for the strut is a simple tab with a hole in it. There is a pin and E-clip to hold it in place and which is a PITA to install. I've lost several. Way to go.
Sooooooooo the radiator I ordered showed up, and the dang thing is ~ 2 inches longer than the OEM one. It -wants- to fit, but it's putting up one heck of a fight lol.
Anyone run across this particular dilemma before? Everything else about the radiator is identical (plus two AT fluid bungs), its just longer. Just long enough to not drop right down between the headlight buckets. I think it'll fit, just unsure on how to tetris it on down there.
Sooooooooo the radiator I ordered showed up, and the dang thing is ~ 2 inches longer than the OEM one. It -wants- to fit, but it's putting up one heck of a fight lol.
Anyone run across this particular dilemma before? Everything else about the radiator is identical (plus two AT fluid bungs), its just longer. Just long enough to not drop right down between the headlight buckets. I think it'll fit, just unsure on how to tetris it on down there.
I've heard that same comment from folks on the FB group. It must be for some other Masda that happens to almost fit.
Yeah, there's a longer radiator out there listed for the Capri that doesn't fit. Not sure where the aftermarket mfgrs got that, but it's there and hasn't left.
I think its a 28" vs a 26" or something like that.
You'll need to find a 26" or whatever it is
Glad it worked for you.
Sounds awesome. What did you use for a muffler? I replaced entire cooling system in my 91 this last year to include the radiator. I ended up going with an all aluminum racing radiator as I was unable to locate a regular one.
I really like a cheap turbo muffler and oversize pipes. They have a deep throaty sound but not obnoxiously
loud.
The stock muffler is rather short, and it will be difficult to get over the axle with most aftermarket mufflers. If you use a straight glasspack type muffler you can put it in the center, it will make routing easier. Turbo mufflers are available in that shape if you don't like glasspacks.....I don't...lol If you put the muffler at the back, your ground clearance is gonna be really close.
Congratulations, I admire your persistence hope things fo well when you start using it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rf0jwslIMU5MIOPLsPcWAzvUSp4Ia4dE/view?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Rf0jwslIMU5MIOPLsPcWAzvUSp4Ia4dE/view?usp=sharing)
I put MB SLK seats in mine and love them. The headliner is no big deal. Remove the cardboard headliner, pull the cloth off, sand the old foam off, contact cement on both pieces. When you are pressing the new fabric in place, use a thick piece of foam of something wide, if you use your fingers you'll leave finger grooves in the finished product. Ask me how I know.....lol