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Author Topic: check engine codes  (Read 7772 times)

WickedClown

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check engine codes
« on: June 26, 2013, 01:32:00 PM »
I can't find the meanings anywhere.. help!!  
1 long 5 short  
 1 long 7 short  
1 long 2 short
   2 long 7 short

Anyone have a convenient guide for this?
I tried Google and searching the forums and tech capri.

My dumb self drove my car through a ditch and now it idles oddly and when my boost vacuum gauge starts to move past zero the engine bogs down until I ease up. When there is vacuum it drives fine for the most part. Poke at the tps while idling and idle speed changes. No visible damage when looking around under the car.
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WickedClown

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check engine codes
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2013, 02:15:00 AM »
This is for 89 gt, would the codes be the same?
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/323gtxtech/gtxdiagnostics.htm

It reads two for o2, one for solenoid valve, and one for tps.
Those could be old codes.. I'll reset the codes and read them again.
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tonlaw71

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    • 1992 XR2 and a 2013 Nissan Juke
check engine codes
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2013, 10:13:00 AM »
The list is in one of the files on techcapri, I'll see if I can find it.
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///Tony aka Bubba Gumpshrimp\\\

///'92 Plasti-Dipped XR2\\\

tonlaw71

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    • 1992 XR2 and a 2013 Nissan Juke
check engine codes
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2013, 10:34:00 AM »
Yes, the first 2 are O2 sensor codes. The 12 is TPS, but I'm not finding anything for 27
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///Tony aka Bubba Gumpshrimp\\\

///'92 Plasti-Dipped XR2\\\

Gostlrs

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check engine codes
« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2013, 08:47:00 PM »
Here is where they codes are located. Page 12

http://techcapri.home.comcast.net/~techcapri/ServiceManuals/PCM/Capri_PCM_EEC_Quick_Test_Procedures_S05B.pdf


Disconnect the negative of the battery. Then pump the brake pedals a few times. Let it sit 5 minutes & reconnect.

Drive the car a few times and after 30 ~ 50 miles recheck the codes so you know that the codes in there are the newest & not left over.


There is no 27, relook. I bet it is 26 with the EGR since you are having the O2 code as well if they are all valid.
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WickedClown

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check engine codes
« Reply #5 on: June 28, 2013, 01:13:00 AM »
Ok, I haven't reset the codes yet, going to do that now.
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WickedClown

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check engine codes
« Reply #6 on: June 29, 2013, 04:06:00 AM »
Still gettin the codes 15 and 27. It's definitely 27.
Seems like it's not getting enough fuel. The turbo is definitely working. I hear it and can get boost, just when I'm at 2500 or higher rpm w/ boost I lose power. At 4500 rpm I lose power even when there's about 10 psi vacuum. Going to focus on the systems that affect fuel delivery.
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WickedClown

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check engine codes
« Reply #7 on: June 29, 2013, 05:39:00 AM »
No visible damage on the bottom of my car... if I hit my cat converter on the ground could something inside have broken and causing a blockage that makes these symptoms at high rpm and lower rpm with boost? Also, the turbo sounds louder and I haven't heard the bov since. Maybe the louder sound is all the boost pressure exiting the bov as soon as it starts?
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WickedClown

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check engine codes
« Reply #8 on: July 05, 2013, 07:19:00 AM »
No blockage in the exhaust..
No vacuum leaks.. observed gauge and took things apart and put back together.

Replacing o2 sensor later. Have a new one already.
Car runs exactly the same with or without o2 plugged in.
No check engine light from it, only the code gets flashed at me.

Car runs VERY rich. In neutral, rev to 5000 briefly,
Someone else had their hand by the exhaust. It turned black from one puff of smoke.

My car runs way richer than anyone's. Beat that if you dare...
   

Tried unplugging random other sensors. Like tps and others. It ran the same no matter which one I pulled (did not pull vaf)

Inspected things like vaf, throttle body, bov.. clean, flap not stuck open, seemed good.

Is eating some oil now. Didn't do that before, and it's not leaking, the levels just getting lower.
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Gostlrs

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check engine codes
« Reply #9 on: July 05, 2013, 09:18:00 AM »
Rich & poor gas mileage with the O2 code... First thing I would replace.
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WickedClown

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check engine codes
« Reply #10 on: July 05, 2013, 09:23:00 AM »
Still haven't replaced that o2.
The drive was slightly different this time. It drove better under boost, not as good without boost, had to play with throttle a bit

Heard the bov.. was wondering about it before.

That sure was a shaky ride....
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WickedClown

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check engine codes
« Reply #11 on: July 06, 2013, 01:05:00 PM »
Replaced o2 sensor and changed plugs since I've been driving with it running rich. Those plugs were gross!

The car performs better but still has a rough initial idle and doesn't respond well to fast acceleration. It still runs rich, but not as rich as before. Idles great after driving for a minute, sometimes very consistent sometimes it is only smooth with rpms fluctuating +-300. When I am accelerating and I want to accelerate even faster, it bogs down and goes slower instead. What a piece of crap!!! But it's my piece of crap!  
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WickedClown

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check engine codes
« Reply #12 on: July 06, 2013, 02:31:00 PM »
Sooo.. the code 27 for the solenoid that controls the purge control valve, are these parts connected? Or are they two separate units? It's the only fault I'm getting from the cel now
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Gostlrs

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check engine codes
« Reply #13 on: July 06, 2013, 07:17:00 PM »
Sounds like you have a lot of emissions faults. They all can cause the car to run rich. Your Idle Air control Valve might be bad if it runs better once warmed up. Maybe even the TPS sensor. Does the boost hold solid? I seen a leaky throttle body cause hesitations like this before on other cars.

You might of had a combo of things bad and sound like your slowly getting them straight.
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2015 Nissan Frontier
2015 Chrysler 300
1990 240sx (SR20DET Swapped)
1992 240sx Convertible

WickedClown

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check engine codes
« Reply #14 on: July 07, 2013, 06:17:00 AM »
It doesn't run better once warmed up, just after it runs in gear for a short moment. Warm or cold it's bad when I first start it. It starts great, give it 5 seconds and it wants to stall.

Tps is good according to 323 manuals test specs. Meets voltage requirements. Not getting a fault for it either.

The boost holds solid. Just doesnt respond well to the boost after 2500 rpm.

Bleh, time for coffee!!
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