If you pull the wire from the temperature switch (my book says Green w/red stripe), the relay cannot operate, which leaves the fan circuit operational. If the fan does not turn on with that wire pulled and when the key is on, then that circuit is broken somewhere, or the fan motor is defective.
Just because a relay clicks doesn't mean it's contacts are good.
Pull the fan connector. Pull the temperature switch connector. Check the yellow fan wire, should be 12 volts with key on. If no voltage then there are either bad connector contacts or a blown fuse or damaged wire. Fuse is under the dash, 20 amp for n/a manual or 25 for auto or xr2. (I've never understood why the fuse is different for those configurations, is the fan different or what??? Anybody know?). Of course if the fuse is bad and blows again, that fan would probably need replacing.
Check the yellow / green fan wire, should be 0 ohms to ground with temperature switch wire pulled. If not then you've got a bad connector contact or a bad cooling fan relay or a damaged wire or a bad ground connection. If not 0 ohms then pull the relay connector (left front of engine compartment, white connector, 4 wires), check the black wire, should be 0 ohms to ground. These last 2 paragraphs should zero you in on the fault.
25 amps is somewhat excessive for the fan motor, but check the circuit first. Sometimes weak connections can open up under high current demands. That means a fan pulling a little too much current along with a weak ground or connection somewhere can make the circuit open up under load, but then seem ok with a meter with no load. If the circuit all checks out ok with the meter, then you will need to carefully inspect each connector contact, each wire at the crimp to the connector (blue or green or white stuff is corrosion), grounds (one is on the driver side, inner fender, near the main relay/coolant reservoir, 5 wires into that ground),
Bypassing the circuit has risks. The electronic load module monitors the fan on/off condition. If it does not know when the fan is on, it cannot compensate for the increased alternator load and then increase engine rpms. I've never tried this, but sounds like the idle would be really low or the engine would stall...Chris
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