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[SHOwn]

I'll call Borgman Mazda tomorrow, they are supposed to be pretty good with old Mazdas. Maybe they can get the bolt. I'd like to put it together Saturday. My Rock Auto Gates water pump and Dayco timing belt kit came today with all gaskets, seals and the lube to install the seals. I can weld a bar onto the old pulley and I should be able to brace against it enough to torque it correctly.

I have enough to finish the job now, except I think I'll pick up some harder bolts for the pulleys, and if possible, get that new main bolt, and some gumption.

[mitch1204]

Yeah change them seals while you are in there. I reused by bolt with no issues but a new one would be nice since that TSB recommends it.

Yesterday a guy asked me to jump him off. I think it was a 2001Mazda 3. Popped the hood and there is the same engine. The intake setup was different but everything else looked the same. 👀

[azgtx]

I can't believe you are having such time getting the crank bolt off. Impact  takes that off no sweat,

[SHOwn]

Ok, I got the water pump off last night, and since so many parts had to come off, I just kept going. I decided to pull the alternator and take it up the road to Adema alternator. They are great people there, doing things the old fashion way, pen and notepad, not even a computer in sight! But they rebuild my alternators to last, and cheaper than I can get one from the stores. I decided to rebuild it because it had 120K on it, and it's so hard to remove! It was working fine.

I stopped at Borgman Mazda and picked up my new long-nosed crank bolt, Mazda part #B3C7-11-406 (fits a 2001 Mazda 3 but looks identical to the 2 used Capri long-nosed bolts I have). I also went to the hardware store and picked up new Grade 10.9 M6x1.0 bolts for the harmonic balancer, and some thread locker blue.

I cleaned up everything and prepped for the water pump, but I have a question before I proceed. The Chinese made Gates water pump I bought looks great, but the instructions show what looks to be a Dodge Hemi, and there is no specific instructions to help with the Capri. I know how to put a water pump in, but I'm not sure about the O-ring that is included. It would seem to go on the Water Outlet which our lower radiator hose connects to, and has that rediculously stupid pipe joining it from behind the A/C compressor mount.

So, am I right  in thinking that the O-ring is for that pipe to outlet joint?
If so, do I just twist and pull it off toward the passenger side?
And then, how on earth would I get the thing back together?

The Factory service manual is no help - it says "Remove water outlet".

[Pappy T]

You'll see where the o ring goes when you get the pump off . Taking the bottom hose off helped, it's a tight fit in there.. you'll need a lot of patience if you've never done it before but it'll fall in place when you look it at , it's pretty straightforward.    I made a wrench to make it a whole lot easier to get those 2 front bolts in and out too. Went to Harbor Freight and bought the offset wrench set , forget how many pieces, took the #12 wrench and Cut To A Total  of     5 1/2"  ...works like a dream and it makes taking in and out the thermostat housing tons easier too !  Still some feeling around and a whole lot of turning but at least you can get the job done a lot easier. Make sure to wire brush and clean all bolts and do not over tighten too. The cleaner it is down there the easier it will be. Good luck with it ! 
PS.. I also put a dab of dielectric grease on the o ring to make sure it didn't bind going in, just a dab. CLEAN all that stuff too.

[mitch1204]

I played the PS and AC off to the side if you haven't already. It is so much easier dealing with them two bolts and the lower hose.

It wasn't long ago someone posted a replacement number from another vehicle that works for that hose. I meant to save it and didn't. It's a good time to change it. You're this close are you sure you don't need a head gasket? lol

[SHOwn]

I' have the power steering pump and bracket off, and the a/c compressor too, she's stripped down except the cam pulleys. Now, I have the water pump off too, but the O-ring seal is Not visible.

It seems like it has to be between the bypass tube and the lower radiator hose outlet bell. Am I right about that?

[mitch1204]

I think what you are talking about is the bypass gasket (o-ring) where that metal tube comes into play if I ain't mistaken. The gasket behind the pump is a round paper gasket with a tongue. The inlet gasket to the lower hose is also a paper gasket similar to a thermostat gasket.

There's a diagram in the engine section. Group 21 page 33. It also refers to Section 27-01 for the water pump which is not available for download that I know of. You might need the paper manual.

Here's an Aussie site for the Ford Capri but I get a failed download on my phone.??

http://www.capriconvertible.com/FORD-CAPRI-89-94-SA,SC,SE-CONVERTABLE/ENGINE/

[mitch1204]

Looking at RockAuto/cooling/bypass gasket that's what it is. It goes on the hard pipe.

Different Mazda engine but similar setup with same part, top diagram, first illustration, 15-287

http://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/showAssembly.aspx?ukey_assembly=299544&ukey_product=1845659

[azgtx]

O-ring goes on the bypass pipe into the pump neck. That pipe just pulls out. You will need to check the flare on the end of that pipe. They are prone to decay which will hinder the seal when you reinstall it. Th b itch about that pipe is you will need to pull the turbo and manifold so replace it if it comes to that. Another trick is to remove the lower corner stud that holds that pipe in and replace it with a bolt..much easier on the install.

[SHOwn]

Thanks to the both of you! That info is very hard to find. I thought I could just pull off the outlet since it seems to be free enough to twist off. But I didn't want to do anything without knowing. I figured that what you were talking about is true, it would be very difficult to replace the tube, so I don't want to hurt it. I have to believe the tube is solid, the coolant system is pretty solid, no corrosion or pitting in sight. I will have to replace the seal because I had a slow drip coming from somewhere close to there, so I don't want to go through all this work and still have the drip.

I will lube the seal when I slide the outlet back on, Mitch.

I hope this clears up any confusion for future readers.

[mitch1204]

I can't remember how I did it, lol. It's been 2 years ago but it's slowly coming back. I think I loosened the pipe. The one nut at the right side of the manifold and the nut on the back side by the ground block. Be careful not to damage the hoses on the rear side off the pipe. Inspect them for leaks when you are done.

[SHOwn]

Wait, now I'm confused again. You guys talk about loosening more bolts. Can't I just pull that outlet off the bypass pipe toward the right fender (left in the pic) and it will pop off harmlessly?

[mitch1204]

You might, I forget. For some reason that manifold nut brings back memories. Maybe it was a thermostat change the pipe is in the way.

You'll know when you get there. Isn't the pipe exposed with the water pump off?

[SHOwn]

The pipe is the one shown in the last pic I posted, with the two 90 degree bends under the power steering pump bracket (removed). It apparently has the O-ring on it where it inserts into the water pump outlet casting protruding to the right in the pic. I'm thinking I can just twist and pull the outlet casting to the left in the pic and it should come off, no bolts involved. There is a decent amount of flexibility in the connection with the pump off, leading me to realize the it is probably only the O-ring holding this together.

Sorry to drag this out! I'm overthinking this because I'm waiting on delivery of the lower radiator hose and front trans mount.