Print

Please login or register.
1 Hour 1 Day 1 Week 1 Month Forever
Login with username, password and session length

[rcdraco]

So I should go back tomorrow and try and rip the turbo off it then?  I do happen to have a factory buick turbo, but that's probably way too large to fit to my car.  

I managed to get the exhaust side off today, now I just have to lift the head off.  I had a lot of trouble getting it out, so I ended up removing the radiator, heater pipe, and the power steering mount.  Not to mention the mess of hoses and lines going into the turbo itself.  Probably would've been easier with the engine out of the car.

Have a guy right down the road from me who deals with turbos, normally the units are much larger then mine, but I think he'll be able to take care of that for me.

[Rocketman]

If you can go back and get the turbo cheap, then go for it. Technicall you only need the compressor wheel & housing (careful, the compressor nut is reverse thread) but having the whole turbo can be less work and more worth it in the long run. (you can run the whole VJ11 center section if your stock unit dies)

The buick turbo is probably way oversize for the 1.6, or at least out of the fuel system's limits.

Working with the engine in the car is manageable, you will learn what needs to come off and what doesn't in order to get things done. Persoanlly I would not have removed the whole motor to remove the head.

[rcdraco]

Had a whole mess of issues removing the turbo off the probe.  Took me 6 hours and I removed every accessory, and the air conditioning condenser, radiator, and intercooler of course.  So I need the hot side off the probe turbo, and the cold side and middle section off mine.  Are the downpipes interchangable?  The probe has the O2 sensor on there.

Can I get away with the rebuild myself, and just ship it out to get balanced?  Or do you recommend sending the whole thing out.  I already do 99% of the work on my car as is, and both the turbos are in good health.  The probe is a bit dirty, but it'll clean up easy.  

All those hoses and connections must do wonders for the life of the turbo.

[rcdraco]

So is it recommended that I get this turbo shipped out, or should I take apart as much as I can and get the shaft balanced, since they sell the kits for $70+$50 balancing vs the full rebuild cost of ~$250.

[rcdraco]

I just got the word from the shop today that the head is too far gone to resurface it, and he believes the block is probably warped as well.

[rcdraco]

Just started fiddling with the turbos to do the swap, and as soon as I had the exhaust to downpipe off, I figured out the reason that probe was in the junkyard.  The wastegate has a 1/2mm crack straight threw it, it's visible even on the inlet to the turbine.

[rcdraco]

I finally got my car running, but now I noticed there is a bad ground issue, which is keeping the idle from being steady.  And I have an open wire under the passenger side headlight, where the foglight and headlight wire leave, there is a 3rd wire which is Green with a read line.  I have it tapped off for now, but where does this actually connect?

Also I need to know which wire I have to replace, since the wire for the tach signal has an intermittent fault.  I was testing the compression and noticed the tach started to hop, so I put the plugs in afterwards, and the car came to life in a triumph of smoke and noise.

[JJ]

I'm not sure I've heard of a ground causing the idle to not be right, but it does give a stumble while driving.... thermostat ground seems to be a common culprit. I had a problem, and even though I cleaned that ground, it didn't go away until the thermostat was actually changed... go figure.

Did you get the TPS set correctly? When mine went bad it had a variable idle. there is a resistance and voltage check. The slots where it mounts make it turnable slightly, and it needs to be set correctly. I know when Ford replaced my TPS they told me the voltage setting. To adjust, voltage should be between .66 and .7. mine was set a .67v.  they tapped into the wire to read the volts.

wish I had more help for ya.

[rcdraco]

Well, what happened last year was I removed one of the main engine grounds and it had this problem, mainly that the IAC never seemed to close.  I'm more concerned about the tach signal line, so that I finally solve my problem, before it bites me in the butt again.

[JJ]

Have you got the wiring schematics? techcapri.com had them up.

[rcdraco]

The wiring diagram doesn't give much insight, same as the FSM procedure for test for continuity on a unit with 3 terminals.

I noticed I was getting a grinding noise coming from the front, so I checked the turbo.  There's a bit of a crunch when turning it, but not noticable shaft play.  Is it possible to save it right now before any damage occurs, or would it be the same price for a rebuild regardless?

[rcdraco]

I found out the noise was just from my finger getting caught, but there is still a bit of a rubbing noise probably a bent turbine blade or something.  Otherwise, it's running pretty well, no backfires, temperature is staying right around 175(No Thermostat in since I'll be flushing it later this week).  The only problem I have now is that the brake light is on, so I'm thinking it must've lost fluid somewhere.

But incase anyone is concerned, you CAN use the 323 FWD fuel tank and hangar from the 1988-1989 and other models.  The only difference on tanks is that it doesn't include the rear hangar our cars use for the rollover EVAP, but the solenoid isn't hanging off the tank, so I don't see a problem.

[Rocketman]

Why use a 323 tank when you can get a Capri tank? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/91-94-92-93-MERCURY-CAPRI-FUEL-GAS-TANK-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZModelQ3aCapriQQhashZitem35b391a89fQQitemZ230645934239

[rcdraco]

Notice how it says except 4wd, and the picture is of a MZ2B, our cars get a MINORLY modified MZ2B.  You can use it without having any problems at all, since it's the exact same tank dimension wise.  The actual capri tank would have a clip on the back for the rollover evap hose, but it's not neccesary.

Plus I paid about $100 for my tank shipping included, with a good warranty.

[rcdraco]

Have two more bugs left to figure out.

The car smokes a bit off the start for roughly 5-10 minutes pretty badly, then it clears out ENTIRELY.  I also happen to have a crack straight down the manifold where a bit of smoke comes out during that time.

Next problem is that the brake light is on, and the car seems to have a lack of brake pressure.  I'm going to check tomorrow to see if the level sensor is unplugged, since the e-brake switch is fine.  I'm really hoping it's not the master cylinder after I've fixed all this now.