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[JJ]

So, I'm battling the airbag blinking 4 times pause, repeat indefinitely, and the cruise control system totally dead. buttons seem fresh and click nicely. Yes, i know how it should work and know about the idiosyncrasies of the system, delays, etc. Have the evtm and a service manual, but wondering what people have done to fix these systems if they've had issues. Not sure where any of the major players in the system are yet... relays, connection test points, grounds, sensors, etc.

And I'm still confused on the 91 airbag codes. I've seen posts say it's a 2 dig number, and others say one. Or is it just 94s may have a 2 dig number?

As always, if/when I fix it, I'll update the group as to what I did.

JJ

[mitch1204]

Four flashes is a general code for a possible short. It can be anywhere from a sensor to the control module or the wiring. Good news it's tedious but not hard to troubleshoot.
You have 3 sensors up front. A left and right near each tow hook up behind the bumper. A center dual sensor by the radiator support and one sensor up under the center console behind the emergency brake. The console one and one other sensor must activate for deployment.

Look in the seat section of the manual. All the airbag diagnostics are hidden in there. I guess cause it's restraints. I think it was Section 41-58 starting around page 20 something. You want the E-1 diagnostic chart. It basically has you unplug each contraption and short a wire to ground to see what's bad. Did the light go out? A monkey can handle that, lol. Getcha a jumper wire and a screwdriver and get to digging.

[greywolf27030]

It may not be the best attitude, but not being a big fan of air bags anyway, I put a piece of tape over the flashing light.  Probably not the best repair especially not from someone who is a anal as I am about mechanical repairs.

Jack Byrd

[mitch1204]

I'm sure the Capri didn't win any crash test trophies. The system disables if there is a code present. So the tape could work.

Luckily the lightbulb didn't burn out. It has a chime device that takes over then. That's when you get the baseball bat out, lol.

[JJ]

I think I've heard the chime. It goes off when the switch is in accessories I believe, then cuts out when it's flipped to run.

I was messing around up front right when changing the alternator. Maybe I bumped something changing that? I'll look there for any clues.

Thanks!

[mitch1204]

Look at the wiring harness section of the manual. It has an illustration of the airbag harness. There are three connectors on the engine side of that front metal plate. Working on the alternator you might of disturbed the connector for the right or center sensor. It could even be a moisture issue getting in one of them connectors. That's where I would start. Good luck.

[chrispoe]

Do not use a jumper wire unless you're doing exactly as the service manaul instructs!!!!

Finding the culprit to a code 4 is generally pretty easy.  With the ignition off, unplug the passenger forward crash sensor. Then turn the ignition on and see what the new set of air bag codes are.  If the code 4 is gone then that connector is dirty or the sensor is faulty and needs to be replaced.  If the code 4 is still present, turn off the ignition. Plug the sensor back in and repeat the procedure for the middle crash sensor, then the driver side, and last the safing sensor by the e-brake.

If you still are having a code 4, you will then need a millimeter to check the wiring, but most of the time, the problem is water getting inside one of the sensors/connectors which causes the short.

[mitch1204]

That's why I told him to read the manual and use the diagnostics in E-1.

E-1, Step 1, deactivate the system.
Step 2, Place jumper wire on rear safe sensing L/W wire and ground. Does the light flash 4 times? Yes/No? Go to E....
There are 13 test in total. Most are unplugging and checking ohms.

Yes an airbag system is dangerous until you disable it. To deactivate you remove your battery ground cable.
You unplug the battery backup which is a capacitor in a box. It holds enough charge to set the system off. Its behind the left side of the glove box area.
Remove 4 nuts securing airbag to the steering wheel. Unplug the airbag from the clock spring.
Attach a jumper wire on the airbag terminals on the clock spring.

The system is now deactivate and can perform the troubleshooting which includes a jumper wire and an ohm meter.

You must follow system prove out procedures after repairs to make sure there are no shorts prior to activating.

Per manual, 4 flashes, go to step E-1

Thanks for saying that Chris. I made too many assumptions. The system can be dangerous if not handled correctly. But doing it correctly is really not hard.
In reality the first two steps are disabling the power. You would be under the hood or in the passenger seat away from the red face maker.

Like you said most likely it's a moisture issue on one of them front connectors. After cleaning them I would use a dab of dielectric grease to prevent future problems.

The manual clearly states that the safing sensor and one other front crash sensor must activate for deployment. Most likely in a serious crash all will activate.

For those that don't know them sensors have a ball bearing that can roll in a channel and a spring. The force has to be great enough for the ball bearing to compress the spring and reach the contacts. That's why it's critical to watch for shorts. But as a safety backup it takes two shorts on an active system or a direct short to the igniter.

I'm sure it's happened but I never seen or heard of anyone accidentally setting one off.

[chrispoe]

Your right Mitch, the both sensors need to activate in the order of front crash sensor, then safing sensor to deploy the air bag. If the safing sensor activates before a front crash sensor, then the air bag will not deploy even when both are activated.

[grantduffield]

FWIW:  I get this same thing (four flashes of airbag light) after a heavy rain. 

[mitch1204]

FWIW:  I get this same thing (four flashes of airbag light) after a heavy rain.

That's worth a lot as the moisture gremlin strikes again.

I think I'll go buy a couple boxes of dielectric grease and change the label to Capri Electrical Grease and sell it to you guys for $20 a tube. Lol

When I got my car every time it rained the wipers would quit along with the headlight motors. It also developed a miss. After a good going over and a whole 4oz tube I haven't had any problems since.
My oil gauge started working after cleaning the ground strap but it still had it's moments. After cleaning the little oil port in the block under the head gasket it has worked 100%.

I wouldn't stop at the airbag connection. I would hit every connection under the hood. It hardly rains down under so them Aussies didn't worry about that stuff.

[Grimsleeper]

Hey JJ,

It sounds like you have some good guidance on the airbag issue.  As for your cruise control problem, the first place to look is the cruise disable switch on the clutch and brake peddles.  The peddles have small holes on the pads that should operate the switches.  from the factory they have small rubber buttons in the holes.  They get old and fall apart and that allows the switch actuator to drop through the hole and that fools the system into thinking the clutch or brake is depressed.  That's what I found was wrong with mine.  Close the holes and the system works as normal.

[greywolf27030]

You can get bumpers are NAPA and Advance to fix these, I had a missing bumper.

Jack Byrd

[JJ]

The peddles have small holes on the pads that should operate the switches.  from the factory they have small rubber buttons in the holes.  They get old and fall apart and that allows the switch actuator to drop through the hole and that fools the system into thinking the clutch or brake is depressed.  .

Not getting this. I looked and saw a large switch with long white button. that just hits the metal arm of the clutch pedal. maybe I'm missing it? where else to look? I didn't see anything else.

JJ

[mitch1204]

As far as the cruise access the inside fuse panel. Check the 20 amp STOP fuse and the 10 amp METER fuse. Both them fuses have to be good.

You are looking at the right clutch switch. It should have a black/yellow wire(12v in, key on) and a blue/orange (12v out with pedal depressed). The brake pedal switch is similar and the same color wires for the cruise system. Usually one of them switches goes bad like grim said. So you check your fuses and pedal switches first. Considering not a wire issue or the above it could be the switch on the steering wheel or the control module which is under the ashtray. Check the other stuff first before we go that far.